Paint Too Thin

OK, todays silly Penny Question

Isnt it funny how you forget the absolute basics sometimes

I was painting a kit last night using 53 Gun Metal (Or something like that) and it was quite a large area and I noticed that it wasnt sticking to the plastic very well. Large "holes" appeared in my paintwork. Thankfully I was working on a cheap experimental kit so Im not overly worried.

Thats when I remembered that you need to prime first. LOL

So, as per usual I look up youtube videos and look up primer and Im rather interested in using primers that come in a paint pot rather than the spray cans. Im figuring mainly cost, but lets play green warrior here and think about throwing that empty can away with all those chemicals inside it.

So, I found three primers Im interested in

Black, Grey and white primer, all my Mig Jimenez

I was looking up on youtube and didnt seem to be able to find anything specific on using these products (perhaps I didnt look hard enough?) but what Im after is pretty basic

1 - Do I use these in the same way I use paints i.e. thin then down, pour into airbrush and spray.

2 - Are these acrylic?

3 - What happens if I thin them too much?

Now, before I ask question four, Im more of a fan of thinner paint than thicker (As I suspect most are). Ive seen plenty of videos that all vary very slightly in the info given. Thicker, thinner, like milk, like water blah blah blah and Ive draw the conclution that its personal choice.

Personally I would rather have my material too thin and have to do an extra coat than be either unworkable or too thick.

so,

4 - Is it OK to have it too thin when either spraying primer or a top coat?

And, you will notice that Ive selected three primers, not one.

5 - When working with scale models is it a better idea to work with different colour primers?

The reason I ask this question is for two reasons

a) When I worked with citidel minitures I was taught to use white and black primers. Essentially in this example you use white for the "good guys" and black for the "bad guys". The colour of the primer can have an effect on the top coat either lightening or darkening it.

b) Its useful to have a colour that you are NOT wiorking with. For example, if Im painting a US Naval aircraft, most of the work is done in grey, so why not prime in white then its just one extra tool to help you see if the coverage is good (Its harder to spot areas you have missed when you spray grey paint on a grey primer on grey plastic)

So, perhaps its personal preference?

I personally use different shades of grey on anything I am painting. Whether it be USAF/USN aircraft of which I am a fan also or armour. The reason being I have always been taught it is a neutral colour also I find it lends itself to any preshading better than most other colours. It is as you say personal choice as I am sure some would disagree with my train of thought on this. I know there are those that use red oxide or something similar and I guess it boils down to what end result you want in the final coats of paint. As the priming stage can affect the tonal value somewhat. Not sure if this helps or hinders you.

Personally Penny, I prefer a light grey or white as a primer colour. It's easier to spot errors & to paint over. My primer of choice is either Tamiya fine surface primer (rattle can) or Mr Surfacer 1200, thinned with cellulose thinners.

For what you are looking at, I'd check out Scale War Machines on YouTube. They have a very good video about using Vallejo primer - which used to be Mig's company.

VALLEJO SURFACE PRIMERS - REVIEW & HOW TO GUIDE:

I don't prime a kit I just wash it and I've never had a problem

But I'm a hairy stick man so it's probably different with an AB

I normally use the standard grey Vallejo primer and it seems to work for my airbrush nicely without further dilution. As Terry said this makes pre-shading easier.

Your problem sounds like an issue with a mould release agent still present on the parts, a quick wash in soapy water will fix that, not so much of a problem on plastic kits but can be a real issue on resin kits.

The only time I change this is when I am painting something that is predominately a dark colour. To take the citadel/warhammer figures examples, I use a dark green primer for my Dark Angels Space Marines (for those not familiar these are an entirely armoured unit with no flesh visible and have a dark green uniform colour). I then use Zenithal highlighting rather than preshading.

I use a large rattle can of either black, grey or white from Halfords its cheap and you get loads

Adrian

On thinning just practice with different percentages.

A lot depends on what you are doing and what paint you are using. Also if you are hand brushing or air brushing. What the temperature is. What size of needle/nozzle you are using plus the pressure you are air brushing at. How close or far you are airbrushing at from the subject. Also which paint you are using ie some paints are prepared for airbrushing some are not.

You will soon find out Penny there is no science to it it is learnt in experience.

On priming I always keep to the primer of the paint I am using.

Laurie

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I use a large rattle can of either black, grey or white from Halfords its cheap and you get loads Adrian

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Me too, Halfords Plastic Primer. I do rub it down and polish it before applying my paints.

Cheers

Steve

Yep , halfords rattle can primer for me to , grey or white pending on what I`m doing , good value for money also .

i use grey or white in a rattle can too...........get mine in The Range cos its cheaper than Halfords :P

before now ive needed a light grey and ended up using just the primer lol

quick and easy, and no need to clean the airbrush afterwards

The vast majority of aerosols now use harmless gasses, so you really don't need to worry about your possible effect on climate change, especially if you keep the button depressed, after the paint's all gone, until the "hiss" dies, too; I use 1500-2000 wet-and-dry, or 12000 Micromesh, always used wet, and wiped dry afterwards with a paper towel.

Your gaps, which are normally known as "birds' eyes," are usually caused by oil deposited on the plastic during moulding. Some manufacturers seem to be more prone to this than others, so, as said above, a degrease in the washing up bowl/liquid, and allowing the sprues to dry naturally should sort things out.

It pays to lightly sand the primer afterwards, since it gives a smoother finish for your top coat to go onto.

The shade of primer is largely immaterial, except when your top colour is red or yellow; ALWAYS use a white undercoat for them, since they have little "body," and the white will act as a reflector, giving the colour more depth and richness. You will be told that it makes no difference, but, believe me, it does.

all my primer comes courtesy of poundland

Addressing the thin paint issue, you can as you say have the paint as thin as you like, provided that you dont thin it so much that you split the pigments. Also that you use a thinner and not water. I use the Vallejo primers when I want acrylic and it is ready to spray out the bottle, however I give it a few drops of their thinners.

Just remember two important things. Thin paint = low air pressure. Always give the primer/paint cure fully before any rubbing down or further painting.

Ian M

Ak interactive primers for me.Black and Grey,I don't always thin it but use very light passes, sometimes 4 very thin coats for smooth non detail coverage.Figures get black with Grey sprayed from the top.Vehicles get all black.Good luck bro.

Edit...Learn what suits your style with test pieces or the Dr cranky way...plastic spoons.

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Ak interactive primers for me.Black and Grey,I don't always thin it but use very light passes, sometimes 4 very thin coats for smooth non detail coverage.Figures get black with Grey sprayed from the top.Vehicles get all black.Good luck bro.Edit...Learn what suits your style with test pieces or the Dr cranky way...plastic spoons.

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You must have been watching over my shoulder when I was watching youtube. I was watching some guy paint plastic spoons

I use the Vallejo primers, buying them in the large 200ml eyedropper bottles. I use four colours, grey, black, bronze green and white. Esssentially I primer with a colour distinctly different to the plastic colour. The different colours are also useful in using primer to pre-shade.

I find the Vallejo dries tight and hard and is brilliant at showing up any flaws in the model that need correcting. It does take at least 48 hours to cure before you can get it to sand with a feathered edge though.

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I was watching some guy paint plastic spoons

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What some people will do for a kick in life :rolleyes: