Nimrod MR2 - Airfix 1/72

flyjoe180

Joe
SMF Supporter
Joined
Jan 18, 2012
Messages
12,419
Points
113
Location
Earth
First Name
Joe
Searchlight looks better than okay Rick. It will make a huge difference to your finished model.
 

rickoshea52

SMF Supporter
Joined
Dec 20, 2011
Messages
3,969
Points
113
Location
North West
First Name
Rick
Most of the work left on this is minor. Tonight I glued the broken nose gear back but I'm not confident about its strength. Another minor disaster (that wasn't unexpected) was that the AEO's domed window detached and is now lost inside the model after a failed attempt to re-attach it and removal of masking. I'll have to pinch one from another Nimrod kit that won't have two of them fitted.

Some other progress was to fill the light voids outboard of the intakes with filler and paint them aluminium. When dry I have some light lenses to fit to represent the lights then finish with the clear light covers from the kit.

Oh, and I'll re-attach the AAR probe that I just knocked off while typing his! Bugga!

View attachment 94345


Edit: Well the nose gear lasted all of twenty minutes. I'm going to glue a scrap of sprue to the front bulkhead and then fix the gear strut to it and the stump of the gear.

image.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

rickoshea52

SMF Supporter
Joined
Dec 20, 2011
Messages
3,969
Points
113
Location
North West
First Name
Rick
I used 2.5 mm lenses from Little Cars for the landing lamps after first painting the compartment aluminium, there's one on each wing.

View attachment 96947


I broke the nose gear during the build. My solution for a beefier fix was to glue a lump of sprue to the front bulkhead then fix the broken part of the shock strut to the stump and butt it up to the sprue so it has two points of contact.

View attachment 96948


View attachment 96949


View attachment 96950


As mentioned in a previous post, the AEO's beam window came loose and fell into the belly of the beast. My solution is to glue a strip of plasticard to the inside of the fuselage and when it has dried I'll trim it back so there is a tab to mount a spare beam window on. I'll glue a second piece when I've trimmed the first before fitting the window. I had to trim off the rim and and a final trial fit will be done before glueing in place.

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg
 
N

noble

Guest
This is looking very cool, iam not much of an aircraft person, but I know what I like and I like this.

scott
 

flyjoe180

Joe
SMF Supporter
Joined
Jan 18, 2012
Messages
12,419
Points
113
Location
Earth
First Name
Joe
Good little fixes there Rick. None of those will be apparent to a casual observer with no knowledge of the build.
 

rickoshea52

SMF Supporter
Joined
Dec 20, 2011
Messages
3,969
Points
113
Location
North West
First Name
Rick
A session spent weathering the underside of this aircraft tonight. I also did a bit on the top with a pin wash in the joins between the controls surfaces, airbrake lightening holes and thrust reversers. The demarcation between these panels is much greater than regular skin panels - because they move - hence the reason I've gone with this technique.

For the lower surfaces I've used oils to pick out the joins between the engine doors (two per engine) and the streaking plus some streaking on the bomb doors. A wash has also been applied to the lower surface as they got quite grimy between aircraft washes. The intake compartment doors have also been picked out for a pin wash. I'll have to think about doing the main gear doors, APU door and tail plane/elevator joins too. I won't be bothering with the rudder as the actual gap is clear enough to not require any additional enhancement.

I'll see how I feel about all this when it's dry as I'm not 100% convinced by it all.

Edited for spelling.

View attachment 97618


image.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

rickoshea52

SMF Supporter
Joined
Dec 20, 2011
Messages
3,969
Points
113
Location
North West
First Name
Rick
Some more progress tonight and it's those little bits of naff-naff that make all the difference but you keep putting off.

So first off are the Lineys; I drilled a hole in the heel of them then super glue brass rod into the hole. When set I will trim down the rod and use it as a locating pin when I come to fix the figures to the base which will also have a hole drilled to fit.

View attachment 98149


The other pain in the backside task is the beam window. I trimmed and sanded the edge a few days ago but here are some photo's to illustrate what was required. The window on the top once looked like the ones on the sprue.

View attachment 98152


Another thing that was bugging me is the oversize pitot probes; they're just too big for this scale. I've been scratching my head for a solution including nicking parts from other kits. Then I stumbled across these spare telegraph poles from my model railway and noticed that with a bit of work I might be able to modify the cable pots. I filed a chamfer on the trailing edge of the armatures ends and painted them gun metal. When dry I'll trim the inner pot and glue the armature to the forward pannier above the radome......I hope!

View attachment 98153


image.jpg

image.jpg

image.jpg
 

Ian M

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
SMF Supporter
Joined
Dec 14, 2008
Messages
19,710
Points
113
Location
Falster, Denmark
First Name
Ian
This is one of, if not the best Nimrod build I have seen.

Ian M
 
Top