HMS King George V - 1/350 Tamiya

Hi Ron,

Hi Ron, By generic I mean what you bought, a set of handrails for an unspecified RN Ship, great you won't regret it.

Re imperfections, the trial fit looks pretty good actually. But watch this posting as I fit the deck (after painting of course.)

Correct you win the pub quiz. Golden Horse Shoe = U-99, You probably know the story but http://www.scale-models.co.uk/community/threads/afv-club-german-u-boat-type-vii-b-1-350.29440/#post-246510

Do I win a prize for getting you to buy after market?

Cheers Derek

I hope the handrails are not too fiddly. I don't want to be put in a home for the bewildered just yet!

On the subject of the deck and bearing in mind I know nothing about the fitting etc. Presuming it is a real wood veneer, when you paint them, doesn't the grain swell? If so, how the heck do you sand the thing down being so thin?

I'm not trying to be negative about them, just curious from a practical point of view.

I have Kretchmer's Revell 1/125 U99 ready on the build list - once I've finished Rorke's Drift, my dream house, KG5 and the under a tenner build....Could be some time!

Again, the question of the wooden deck edge comes to mind, as there is no edge on the U.Boat hull. How will that turn out, 'cos a 'proper deck would look nice on U.99?

Sorry old lad, no prizes, because I had to spend much cherished beer tokens to get the rails. Also, my life won't be worth a flick of the wrist when Dave (gern) reads what I've done!

Address sent so you can send me my prize.......

Cheers Ron

Hi Ron, The idea of the wooden deck is that you just fit and leave it. For my KGV I plan to do that. But once everything is painted and the deck fitted, if the deck looks too much of a contrast/new looking I may use weathering powder or a wash to make it look worn. That's why I mentioned in my built that I am keeping the scraps from trimming the decks for testing.

Re the Submarine Wooden Deck, never done one or seen one, but then I'm no expert. For my 1/350 I'll just be painting and weathering. For larger scale I would be tempted to use thin wooden strips although a perforated sheet would be best but more difficult to achieve, see photo below, not very sharp I'm afraid. Cheers Derek

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p.s. Found a 1/72 wooden deck http://www.steelnavy.com/Nautilus72UBoatDeck.htm

Finished the PE on the superstructure, but still have to do a final check and clean-up.

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Bought the MK1 Design Cable Reel Set. The Drums have grooving, but some have a prominent seam which I will hide (white metal stamping.)

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Have shown the superstructure removed from the Deck this is now a one piece construction. At some stage of the build you have to decide how you are going to paint the job and how many sub assemblies you want. This is my choice, the masts are now cemented in.

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Fitted the brass plates for the anchor chain which came as part of the Wooden Deck Kit.

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Photo shows various bits stuck to cardboard for painting.

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Last photo shows how I intend painting everything in four groups.

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Still some minor work to do before painting.

Derek

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Gawd struth, all that railing and stuff. I could never cope with all that P.E.

Cracking job Derek.

I'm even more determined to stick to my original plan for my KG5, now I've seen all the work the build could involve.....It would be too much for me I'm afraid, so top marks to you.

Cheers, Ron

Some very nice work Derek.

As Ron says how do you cope with all that PE. Very meticulous work all round you certainly have to have a character which deals with that patience beyond belief.

I had thought of a ship at one time but now I just could not cope.

Laurie

Superb work with all that PE Derek. This is looking fantastic.

Thanks for viewing and your kind comments Gents. Please don't be put off from modelling Ships Laurie, I highly recommend the Trumpeter HMS Roberts kit, it is a very good kit, some small amount of PE but this is included with the kit. Trumpeter will be releasing another Monitor kit - HMS Abercrombie shortly.

Cheers Derek

Your PE is very neat and straight, mine always has some bits at odd angles

[PART QUOTE=spanner570, post: 247396, member: 10038]

On the subject of the deck and bearing in mind I know nothing about the fitting etc. Presuming it is a real wood veneer, when you paint them, doesn't the grain swell? If so, how the heck do you sand the thing down being so thin?

I'm not trying to be negative about them, just curious from a practical point of view.

Cheers Ron

Ron, Here are photos of my wooden deck for KGV and the only colour photo of a Battleship deck I can find obviously either HMS Nelson or HMS Rodney, as you can see the colours are not too far adrift allowing for photo colour temp differences. If you do want to do some painting, suggest you give the wood a spray coat of varnish first.

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Thanks for your comments Graham, but you are too modest. Cheers Derek

Did a detailed dry fit of the Timber Deck, fit was pretty good. I noticed that the port side of the deck followed the plastic deck edge exactly. However the starboard side was slightly larger by approx. 0.4mm so I trimmed the excess off. Also trimmed around the larger sized fairleaders and bollards as the fit was tight/fouled. Have decided to fit the handrails before painting and fitting the Wooden Deck. I am keeping the handrail, when gluing, to the outer edge of the hull as much as possible.

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The photo below shows that I have drilled a 1.2mm dia. pilot hole at the chain lockers and anchor chain points, the kit has a blind hole at these 6 points.

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PAINTING

I will be using Aerosol cans for the primer and varnishes, and an airbrush for the top coats. I am not trying to produce an exact shipyard colour scheme, remember you are looking at a large vessel reduced to table size, so there would be a lot of distance and atmosphere between you and the object which alters the colours. Also the colours are affected by the ambient light. I have therefore chosen to use Mr Color H307 for the hull and H308 for the superstructure and deck fittings, however I will be mixing some white, I don't know how much yet, I will mix the colour, and brush some on a test piece and let it dry, model paint often darkens when dry. I usually thin it 60/40 paint to thinner. My preference is Mr Color levelling thinner, it takes very slightly longer to dry but gives a smoother finish.

Note: - For me, Mr Color is an excellent airbrush paint, but I personally would not use it for hand brushing other than very small objects.

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For the upper deck, turret roofs etc. at the moment I plan to use Lifecolor UA722 - Roof Dirt, mixed with Lifecolor White LC01 this paint is excellent or both hand and airbrushing. I will do a test piece first.

I never paint below +10 Deg. C, so as I paint in a small utility room at the back of the garage, which is around 3 Deg. at the moment I will have to wait my chance. Derek

Looking good Derek........What have you got me in to?!!

Folks, here is the handrail on the 1/350 KG5. I have over 2mtrs. layed end to end....... I'm really looking forward to fixing these on mine!

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Cheers,

Ron

Ron, can I ask what is the name of the manufacturer of your handrails? Cheers Derek

Eduard....99007. Royal Navy Railings. You're going to post they are not correct, me thinks?

Hi Ron, No I wouldn't do that to you. I was just looking for more information on them. I was curious as to how you fix them, and was looking for more info on the Internet but couldn't find anything. They are three rail which is correct, but it looks as if the stanchions project below the bottom rail and that's all you have to fix to, but I may be wrong. My Gold Medal ones have a fourth rail which I assume is a kicking flat, and this has the added benefit of having a continuous rail to glue to. Cheers Derek

Derek, that's interesting. I did think how on earth I was going to fix my rails. I'll come to that when I have to!

I note your post about your rails having a kicking flat. If you take a look at Stuart's earlier big KG5 photo, it shows the railing back from the kicking flat by quite some few inches - almost a foot.

It also shows the rail stanchions fixed direct to the deck fittings, not the flats......Interesting eh?

You can always count on me to choose the hard option!

Cheers, Ron

That's a good idea i will do that myself as i have all the eduard pe parts for the pow kit so being the same class ship i will be watching this build closely

Hi Ron, I guess the difference re kick flat position is modelling license and practicality. Was looking at the MK 1 handrails for my future 1/350 Dragon Scharnhorst just now and they are as my Gold Medal, also I think Pontos do the same i.e. 4 Rail.

I may be wrong but the only option I can see for you would be to drill small holes so the stanchions slot in and give the CA glue a chance. Bear in mind the wooden deck positional requirements.

Maybe someone in this Forum has already had experience of this and can contribute. Derek

p.s. Welcome aboard Dave, feel free to contribute.

p.p.s Just found a photo of the Pontos handrail, it is 4 Rail.

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I don't think I could even see the drill bit, let alone drill holes with it. Such an undertaking is well beyond my skill level. I'm going to have to re-think this whole P.E. business.