Mud techniques

John Rixon · Jan 13, 2015

Morning!

Anybody fancy posting a mud tutorial? I have a few diverse ones bookmarked from YT, but am really interested in folks techniques here.

Cheers

John

Alan 45 · Jan 13, 2015

I use Vallejo plastic filler on tank tracks and side and front/rear armour then paint it in dark earth and finish off with a dark earth wash

For conventional tyres I use revells dark earth as its very thick and I just put blobs of it on the edges of the tyre then a dark earth wash :smiling3:

dubster72 · Jan 13, 2015

Personally I wouldn't use filler - what do you do if afterwards you realise you've put too much on? It's hard to remove!

For me, I mix the old faithful, Bicarbonate of Soda with PVA glue & a paint colour that matches the season/theater being depicted. Smear it on in small amounts until I have the desired look.

It can also be done in stages with different shades to show older, dried mud with fresher mud on top. A touch of gloss medium helps to give a wet effect.

eddiesolo · Jan 13, 2015

Bicarb and PVA does work a treat. I also use two part epoxy resin with a oil paint, this leaves it shiny (see pic below), downside to this is that it is not practical for large areas due to cost.

Si :smiling3:

Stevekir · Jan 13, 2015

For rubbly ground, or crumbly rocks, I coat with PVA then sprinkle silver sand, pressing on gently, then painting. Silver sand has no big lumps nor rubbish. Unfortunately it is sold in garden centres in a sack (or by modelling suppliers in tiny amounts). Perhaps bicarb does the same, for very fine crumbly bits.

spanner570 · Jan 13, 2015

Tile adhesive. Mix it up, spread it on, shape it, add what you want - Tank track marks, footprints, stones, grit, anything.Then paint.........A 10kg powder bag around £5, lasts for years!...Job done!

I think there is a mud 'how to' somewhere in the vaults...don't ask me where though!

John Rixon · Jan 13, 2015

Thanks for these folks - food for thought. Ive seen a number of references to Bicarb and also Tile adhesive. I guess Im gonna make some dummy runs on the same water bottle I practised hand-brushing tamiya acrylics on! Will report my findings as and when…

Cheers, John

Alan 45 · Jan 13, 2015

Here you are John this is the effect you can get with plastic filler View attachment 96700

I applied it with a brush so you have total control

saguy · Jan 13, 2015

this is excellant ... i am presently building a js1/2 with a diorama .... going to give the bicarb / pva glue technique a go ....

John Rixon · Jan 13, 2015

Nice one Alan! That really looks muddy, and what more can we ask for? I guess the secret is (as ever) build it up in stages. I'm inwardly laughing at myself getting all obsessional about creating crud, but it really does make a difference, and the bloke I'm building this scorpion for used to drive (and clean) a real one. He reinforced the point to me, and I quote: "they existed in two states, pristine and sparkling, ready for inspection, or completely covered in s**t!" He wants the latter state, needless to say!

Ian M · Jan 13, 2015

Airbrushed pigments mixed with varnish, gives good control and can be put down from the finest "dust" to building it up into thick caked on mud.

For really heavy mud you can mix the pigment poweders with varnish into a thick goop and brush is out onto the 'victim'.

Ian M

0ne48thtel · Jan 13, 2015

I use the real stuff ground down and then sieved through an old pair of tights. This gives a very fine powder that is then mixed with Vallejo gloss/ semi gloss varnish. Using the real thing saves a bit of money and is always on tap no worry about running out half way through a job.

monica · Jan 13, 2015

well most has been covered, but i just use dirt from the garden mixed with thinned down PVA glue and cheap, paint,

once,s thats dry use some ground pastels,to refine the look in diffidence shades,then a coat of matt for a dry look over brushed

with a power to tone any shine off,

for a wet look use a gloss coat ,to hopefully show a wet look,

but like the way Si,did the wet mud on the walker,but would be scared that the resin would not set mixed with paint

backonthecase · Jan 15, 2015

I have a good mud tutorial which I used on the recent staghound build. Would it be best to put it here or make another thread?

Stuart

Stevekir · Jan 15, 2015

I think the topic "Tutorials and how to's" , under "Modelling", would be the best home.

John Rixon · Jan 15, 2015

\ said:
I have a good mud tutorial which I used on the recent staghound build. Would it be best to put it here or make another thread?Stuart

I'll look forward to reading this! I've been collecting soil from the garden and will run it throug a fin sieve. I do agree it's good to keep the costs down, and somewhere amongst all my art gear I have loads of chalk pastels to try Monica's idea. All makes sense, all I have to do now is to experiment.

Laurie · Jan 15, 2015

John the AFV DVD Acrylic Techniques DVD has mud stuff section etc

Laurie

John Rixon · Jan 15, 2015

View attachment 96920

\ said:
John the AFV DVD Acrylic Techniques DVD has mud stuff section etcLaurie

excellent! Have only got 15 minutes into it so far, will finish it off today, all being peaceful!

Meanwhile, have made my first mud mix from PVA, soil and 2 or3 colours of weathering powders. Tentatively applying it to my Bren carrier, and, so far, so good.

colin m · Jan 15, 2015

Looks like you've got the mud sorted. The only thing I can add is look at loads of reference pictures. Mud often ends up in some odd places.

backonthecase · Jan 15, 2015

Typically I now can't find the video!! The long and short of it is as follows: -

Dry mud

Mix a solution of

1 part acrylic matt varnish

1 part tap water

1 part pva glue

Stipple this onto the area you want to coat with mud.

Then dip the brush into pigments of desired colour and stipple onto the model until the glue mix is "saturated" with pigment and no longer looks wet.

Allow to dry and recoat if needed

Stuart

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