How much adhesive to apply?

All ready to go but unsure about applying the adhesive. I bought Revell's Contacta Professional as it was recommended. On larger joins do you apply it as a continuous strip or in spots and do you do both surfaces? Does it take long to dry because the instructions seem to say the pieces need to be temporarily taped together? Any advice appreciated.

I'm building an Apollo Saturn V moon rocket 1:144

I apply it with a thin continuous strip along one side of the parts to be joined.

I've found it best to apply from the

' interior ' side to reduce any excess being squeezed out onto the exterior, although any such excess can be sanded back.

One Contactor tip, don't squeeze the sides to induce the flow of cement, it'll come out in a rush & go where it shouldn't! Just tilt it needle down until the cement appears.

Depending on ambient conditions, it'll be set in a couple of hours & fully cured in 6-8 hours.

I would suggest leaving that Revell Contacta for situations where you need a slow drying cement applied.

For normal use I would recommend one of the thin cements either Gunze Mr Cement S (as I use) or the Tamiya Extra Thin.

With these you use capillary action to bind parts. You attach the two surfaces together and run the brush (supplied in the bottle) down the join and the very thin cement is drawn into the join and it holds quite quicly. It also evaporates quickly so any residue does not affect the detail you touch with the brush. Be careful with finger placement.

http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/mr-hobby-40ml-mr-cement-s-mc129.html

Keith have you come across either Tamiya Extra Thin or Mr Cement S ?

This is a totally different method of working compared to the Revell.

The basis is for instance if you are putting together two aircraft wing halves. Using the Tamiya and Mr S the wing halves are put together dry. Temporarily using tape or clamps in my case I just use fingers to clamp. With the joints tight together the glue is brushed around the joint. Being very thin it wicks into the joint. Acts then as the Revell glue welding the plastic together. The beauty of this system is that you line up all joints prior to glueing which gives accuracy.

I normally tack around at points using my fingers to tighten the joint as close as possible.

I found it transformed welding plastic together. Both the Tamiya and Mr Cement cure quickly enough to take pressure off the hemmed joints after about 30 secs. Full curing takes longer. Mr Cement S I found the quickest to set.

If you try it keep your fingers away from the joint. Both cements form finger prints in plastic quicker than any other named substance in the universe.

Laurie

Did you write my script Barry ?

Laurie

Thanks for all your advice. The Mr Cement S sounds ideal and I have placed an order for it in the shop. Having got that advice in duplicate how could I ignore it?

\ said:

Thanks for all your advice. The Mr Cement S sounds ideal and I have placed an order for it in the shop. Having got that advice in duplicate how could I ignore it?

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Beware the fingers Keith it is very annoying. Also do not sloosh the joint just enough to wet the joint only that will do the trick. If you use to much it will deform the plastic.

Laurie

\ said:

Beware the fingers Keith it is very annoying. Also do not sloosh the joint just enough to wet the joint only that will do the trick. If you use to much it will deform the plastic.Laurie

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Thanks for the tip Laurie

Keith

Ordered me some of that there glue..... From the "scalemodelshop" no less, account set up.... Waiting for the google survey

Keith, sorry to go off topic but your dog looks identical to my dog "poppy "