Canopies... Arghhhhhhh!

PhilJ

PhilJ

SMF Supporter
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
1,114
Points
113
Location
Beltinge
First Name
Phil
Right!


I know this is only my second model but I'm at the same point and having trouble.


Canopies!


Used a mask that came with the kit this time and it's left a nasty sticky gluey residue.


I also get paint peel no matter how careful I am.


Someone please point me in the direction of a sure fire canopy method before I bludgeon myself to death with a blunt instrument!


Phil
 
john i am

john i am

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Messages
3,994
Points
113
First Name
john
Tamiya tape and a sharp scalpel blade and be sure you paints dried cured before masking canopy around fuselage. You can mask the canopy before attaching to fuselage in some most cases.View attachment 119521

image.jpg
 
Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds

Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds

I am Ironman
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
3,118
Points
113
First Name
Adrian
I'm sure there will be multiple replies but I thought I would share my way. Sorry for the length of the reply :smiling3:


Let me say its not cheap, as I use Bare Metal Foil to mask all my canopies, I find it great for the ease at which it moulds to the shape and as its a lot thinner than any tape so there is never any paint step.


So after masking the canopy with the BMF and I cannot stress enough how important it is to use a new blade you need to trim your masking, the first colour should be the interior colour that your model shows as this will be visible from the interior view. Then your top coat colour should be sprayed over the top of the interior colour.


Leave it to dry then once dry I gloss mine ready to decal and weather if required. Once your done with the colours and weathering/decals use a sharp blade to carefully trim round the edges of the canopy this will break the seal from the paint and stop any paint peeling. Lift the BMF with the tip of your blade and peel back the BMF, on rare occasions you may see a little glue this can be removed with a Q-tip and a little IPA.


Now, when I was at Telford a few years back I was amazed at how clear and thin the canopies looked on the Canberra SIG table so I asked them how they achieved it. They actually dip each canopy in Klear three times, so you dip and leave 24 hours then repeat twice more. If your painted edges need to be matt, you carefully brush paint with a matt.


It seems a lot of work but I honestly think its worth the end result.


Hope this picture helps show what I achieve.


Adrian

View attachment 119520

View attachment 119522

006.JPG

011.JPG
 
PhilJ

PhilJ

SMF Supporter
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
1,114
Points
113
Location
Beltinge
First Name
Phil
\ said:
Tamiya tape and a sharp scalpel blade and be sure you paints dried cured before masking canopy around fuselage. You can mask the canopy before attaching to fuselage in some most cases.View attachment 131255
Click to expand...
That's how I'm doing it at the moment mate but struggling, may try ades bmf and klear method
 
PhilJ

PhilJ

SMF Supporter
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
1,114
Points
113
Location
Beltinge
First Name
Phil
\ said:
I'm sure there will be multiple replies but I thought I would share my way. Sorry for the length of the reply :smiling3:
Let me say its not cheap, as I use Bare Metal Foil to mask all my canopies, I find it great for the ease at which it moulds to the shape and as its a lot thinner than any tape so there is never any paint step.


So after masking the canopy with the BMF and I cannot stress enough how important it is to use a new blade you need to trim your masking, the first colour should be the interior colour that your model shows as this will be visible from the interior view. Then your top coat colour should be sprayed over the top of the interior colour.


Leave it to dry then once dry I gloss mine ready to decal and weather if required. Once your done with the colours and weathering/decals use a sharp blade to carefully trim round the edges of the canopy this will break the seal from the paint and stop any paint peeling. Lift the BMF with the tip of your blade and peel back the BMF, on rare occasions you may see a little glue this can be removed with a Q-tip and a little IPA.


Now, when I was at Telford a few years back I was amazed at how clear and thin the canopies looked on the Canberra SIG table so I asked them how they achieved it. They actually dip each canopy in Klear three times, so you dip and leave 24 hours then repeat twice more. If your painted edges need to be matt, you carefully brush paint with a matt.


It seems a lot of work but I honestly think its worth the end result.


Hope this picture helps show what I achieve.


Adrian
Click to expand...
I'm sold ade, think I'm gonna try this method next time. I have been painting interior and exterior but like the idea of two exterior coats. Is the bmf self adhesive and where's the best place to get it? How long does it last? Cost ect?


Cheers mate


Phil
 
S

Stevekir

Guest
An alternative approach which I have tried on the gun turrets of a 1/72 Lancaster involved cutting suitably very narrow strips of pre-painted material (I mean painted befor cutting) and applying direct to the framework of the canopy. I used Sellotape. In thin strips it stretches a little. Its fiddly of course and a steady hand is needed. Doing it again, I think I would experiment with BMF (again pre-painted and in strips.


On the first colour applied to the BMF by Ade (to show the interior colour), it would not be possible to do that with this method, but with many models I doubt whether a different interior colour would be seen clearly, especially with the large number of frame strips in a Lancaster.
 
john i am

john i am

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Messages
3,994
Points
113
First Name
john
Last edited by a moderator:
john i am

john i am

SMF Supporter
Joined
Apr 13, 2012
Messages
3,994
Points
113
First Name
john
papa 695

papa 695

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
SMF Supporter
Joined
May 9, 2011
Messages
20,355
Points
113
Location
Doncaster, South Yorkshire
First Name
Ian
\ said:
Right!
I know this is only my second model but I'm at the same point and having trouble.


Canopies!


Used a mask that came with the kit this time and it's left a nasty sticky gluey residue.


I also get paint peel no matter how careful I am.


Someone please point me in the direction of a sure fire canopy method before I bludgeon myself to death with a blunt instrument!


Phil
Click to expand...
Do you use a sharp blade cut around the edges before you take the masks off Phil ?
 
PhilJ

PhilJ

SMF Supporter
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
1,114
Points
113
Location
Beltinge
First Name
Phil
\ said:
Do you use a sharp blade cut around the edges before you take the masks off Phil ?
Click to expand...
Yes I did do this time but had a bit of peel on the inside and it was more difficult to get in there to be honest which is why I might two coat the exterior as ade suggested
 
PhilJ

PhilJ

SMF Supporter
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
1,114
Points
113
Location
Beltinge
First Name
Phil
So it turns out I have tried to rectify the canopy on the me 262 and to cut a long story short its f****ed!


Any one know of decent third party canopy manufacturers?


Please help I want this build over!


Phil
 
D

demon

Guest
If your fairly new to the hobby I would go for Eduard precut masks I know they do most 48 scale aircraft or my method is to use thin strips of tamiya masking film it's like the tape but thinner and comes in large sheets cut into thin 2mm strips use this to mask each side of frame then infill glass with normal tamiya tape then paint inside colour on the outside then when dry paint outside colour works well for me never ever leaves residue


All the best my friend


Roger
 
PhilJ

PhilJ

SMF Supporter
Joined
May 14, 2015
Messages
1,114
Points
113
Location
Beltinge
First Name
Phil
\ said:
If your fairly new to the hobby I would go for Eduard precut masks I know they do most 48 scale aircraft or my method is to use thin strips of tamiya masking film it's like the tape but thinner and comes in large sheets cut into thin 2mm strips use this to mask each side of frame then infill glass with normal tamiya tape then paint inside colour on the outside then when dry paint outside colour works well for me never ever leaves residue
All the best my friend


Roger
Click to expand...
I have a method I'm going to try next time, but the problem I have this time is the canopy is beyond repair and I need a third party canopy


Phil
 
D

Dave1973

Guest
I use Maskol.


Seems so much easier to me to paint a very thin layer of Maskol onto the canopy where I DONT WANT paint.


I also paint the inside. Leave to dry overnight.


Do the paintwork, then peel off the latex Maskol. Job done.
 
L

Laurie

Guest
Phil there is not an easy method. It requires patience and attention to detail.


I use car lining tape the blue one which is very adhesive but does not leave any residue.


It is the one car sprayers use for the decoration of cars. It can be stretched around corners.


Comes in three thickness's. Best I found is a quarter of an inch.


I always cut a new strip down the centre of the tape so that I have a sharp virgin edge.


Place on the alignment of the framework. Cut each end on the frame alignment. Any mark


is covered. Lay down the cross pieces and these can over lap the first piece as the


adhesive quality is great.


Look on the underside of the plastic cockpit which gives a great clue as to whether you are


on the alignment of the frames. When you have finished all the frame edges mask with tape


all the exposed bits.


Burnish down the tape on the frame edges. I use a finger nail.


Then I coat the plastic exposed frames with very thin coat of Vallejo Matt varnish to, hopefully, seal


any edges not sealed.Also gives a good surface for the paint.


Airbrush a thin first coat. Thin as any area not sealed will be with out great seepage. Then a full coat


Then leave 48 hours. Then with a sharp preferably American Razor Blade very carefully score


along the edge of the tape lines. American Blade as it is thin and very sharp.


Then very slowly remove the tape pulling to the side rather than along the line. If there is an seepage


cut on the line. Carefully scratch with a wooden toothpick away the paint seepage. With IPA use a


small pointed cotton bud to remove carefully any residue.


Not easy. But the first thing you see on a model is the cockpit cover. If it looks rough then the model


does not look good.


Should it go wrong remove all paint with IPA and start again. Done that. Next time it will be near perfect :smiling3:


If possible use magnification to fix the tape and get it aligned accurately.


Laurie
 
N

noble

Guest
\ said:
I have a method I'm going to try next time, but the problem I have this time is the canopy is beyond repair and I need a third party canopy
Phil
Click to expand...
Phil have you tried putting oven cleaner on the canopy and putting it in a sealed bag for an hour, this will get rid of any paint without damaging the canopy and you can do it as many times as you need to to get your canopy right, hope this helps.


scott
 
N

noble

Guest
\ said:
I use Maskol.
Seems so much easier to me to paint a very thin layer of Maskol onto the canopy where I DONT WANT paint.


I also paint the inside. Leave to dry overnight.


Do the paintwork, then peel off the latex Maskol. Job done.
Click to expand...
I use this method to and I find it has worked for me all the time.


scott
 
Robert1968

Robert1968

Joined
Mar 2, 2015
Messages
3,410
Points
113
First Name
Robert
\ said:
I'm sure there will be multiple replies but I thought I would share my way. Sorry for the length of the reply :smiling3:
Let me say its not cheap, as I use Bare Metal Foil to mask all my canopies, I find it great for the ease at which it moulds to the shape and as its a lot thinner than any tape so there is never any paint step.


So after masking the canopy with the BMF and I cannot stress enough how important it is to use a new blade you need to trim your masking, the first colour should be the interior colour that your model shows as this will be visible from the interior view. Then your top coat colour should be sprayed over the top of the interior colour.


Leave it to dry then once dry I gloss mine ready to decal and weather if required. Once your done with the colours and weathering/decals use a sharp blade to carefully trim round the edges of the canopy this will break the seal from the paint and stop any paint peeling. Lift the BMF with the tip of your blade and peel back the BMF, on rare occasions you may see a little glue this can be removed with a Q-tip and a little IPA.


Now, when I was at Telford a few years back I was amazed at how clear and thin the canopies looked on the Canberra SIG table so I asked them how they achieved it. They actually dip each canopy in Klear three times, so you dip and leave 24 hours then repeat twice more. If your painted edges need to be matt, you carefully brush paint with a matt.


It seems a lot of work but I honestly think its worth the end result.


Hope this picture helps show what I achieve.


Adrian
Click to expand...
I agree full heartedly with Adrian the BMF is good for all scale sizes and intricate masking before painting. I use it on most of canopies ( yes it's expensive) but if you buy in bulk ( I bought 5 sheets it's cheaper )


Shop around


I was going to cover one of my kits wit the stuff to give a 100% metal look


Oh and Adrian's right a new Number 10 scalpel blade as it will snag if the blades Blunt


Cheers


Robert
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top