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Do a site search. I've seen at least one thread about masks

Check on scalemates for other Airfix kits and different manufacturers of the same subject aircraft, then where possible look at the on-line kit instructions and check if any have optional canopies (open or closed or maybe a different mark. might need a bit of surgery if you find one though. Tom

I hear you Jim, The amount to add was also meant 'for future reference' as it were. Varnish? I don't know if it's me but matt varnish hardly ever seems to finish off matt for me so was wondering how to assist the process along (although the 'mattness' of varnish is all about the last coat). Tom

Needed some matt white but could only get X-2 white. How much X-21 should i add to a full 10ml jar of X-2 to make it matt? I know if too much is used you end up with a 'milky' finish TIA Tom

Never got around to watching Tripods but remember enjoying the books when I was an early teenager. Agree V went downhill. Tom

Thanks for the fix Jakko

When you've found a kit on t'internet you like the look of, try and find some reviews/build reviews to read. https:tongue-out3:/www.scalemates.com/ https:tongue-out3:/www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/ Here's a couple but there are loads more - including this site. But don't think their weathering...

I use this stuff from Hobbycraft https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/gs-supplies-hypo-tube-cement/566231-1000 Tom

If your scratching your head now wait until you model an open topped vehicle! A Wespe for arguments sake. Then plan to paint sub-assemblies (interior of the fighting compartment, the various bits of stowage and ammunition etc. within, then the gun and cradle) then fix in place and cover them (if...

I'd go for XF75 IJN Gray, XF77 IJN Gray Sasebo Arsenal or XF82 Ocean Grey. Maybe with a tadj of XF69 Nato Black or XF85 Rubber Black. https://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln/72/XF-chart-10ml.pdf Tom

Someone, somewhere posted a link to make a circle center finder (CCF) using a flat base with an isosceles shape made from square plastic glued to it. Mark the middle of the base line. put the disc into the CCF touching both 'long' sides then lay a ruler from the apex to the middle mark and draw...

I find they can be a bit fragile without a good coat of primer first.

Are you brush of airbrushing? Maybe, in the future use a different colour primer. Give them a coat thinned less. If you loose detail dip a brush in iso/thinners etc. and wipe the excess away. I find Tamiya does brush reasonably well with about 5-10% thinners. Just don't go back over an area...

would it be easier to mix (keep better) if the container was stored on it's side? just thinking the mixing (esp. with a BB) might be more efficient. Tom

Jens, I don't know if I'm right but I'd think cleaning them with whatever you'd thin the paint with (e.g. isopropanol for Tamiya then a good rinse in clean water; water and mild detergent for Vallejo; white spirit for enamels etc.) would be better. Cellulose thinner seems a bit harsh to me. Tom

After a while give them a dip in hair conditioner every now and then (just like washing your hair, which, for me, doesn't seem to take long at all these days). After all, they are hair.

I was thinking side cutters wouldn't leave a clean looking cut

As the title says. What's the best way to cut thin (0.2 - 0.9mm) brass rod? I thinking a cutting disc in my whizzy thing would leave the best finish on the cut. TIA Tom

Ta for trying Ron, I don't know if the 'real' measurement includes the shoulder frame, but 6 or 7mm seems about right. It could be that at the time i'm talking about I was building a Revell PT boat as well (and thinking of a 1/72 flower class corvette built as HMS Smilax which would have needed...

I can remember building this back in the distant past and thought the Oerlikon looked too big? (and the Revell offering in their various PT boat kits too small). Any chance of a measurement? NavWeaps states an over-all length of 87" or 2210mm so 30.69mm in 1/72. Tom