1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri scratchbuild model

[Nick_Karatzides]

Once the base coat has cured, I brushed the oils with a broad, soft brush and spread the paint around until the desired colour density is achieved. Because working in oils is a little bit goes a long way, I started by putting just a little bit of paint on the end of the brush. I kept the brush strokes going in one direction and didn’t really worry about leaving brush strokes - I wanted them there for the wood grain. I tried not to spread it on too thick, or it would make the next step more difficult.

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At this point the oils would be workable for several hours. With a broad, soft, clean and completely dry paint brush, I draged over the oil paint, leaving wood grain streaks. I jiggled the brush every now and then to give the grain a bit of variation. As the brush picked up the paint, I wiped it off on a clean, lint free cloth and continue process. “Lint free is the key phrase, as any speck of lint would adhere to the oil paint and destroy the finish. The beauty of this technique is that you can clean the oils off and try again if you goof up. Use a clean cloth and paint thinner (mineral spirits or turpenoid - not lacquer thinner) to wipe clean any mistakes and start over again. For the 1/18 scale Kolibri helicopter frame, it took me about two or three tries to get the paint density and colour right, but it really was quite painless.

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In some parts of the model which should look more bright, I slightly toned up with "Buff" & "Yellow Ochre" mixtures, or even pure “Basic Flesh Tone" and “Sunny Flesh Tone", while some others had to show darker, using "Brown" or "Raw Umber" color and blend naturally. Meanwhile, I tried same painting procedures on the wooden 3-steps ladder (used by Luftwaffe WWII ground crews and technician personnel for ground vehicle & aircraft maintenance procedures), which also got CAD designed & 3D printed with the helicopter kit parts to be used as a diorama accessory.

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As soon as the result was OK for me, I left it alone to dry for few days and then sprayed over selected areas with Tamiya Color X-24 Clear Yellow acrylic, because it also helps bring the grain color out more.

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[Nick_Karatzides]

CHAPTER VI - Balkenkreuz & swastikas water slide decals

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In recent years, most scale model companies avoid (for political correctness reasons) to depict the swastika symbol on kit box and the water slide decal film. In addition, some scale modelers fear of some mighty Holly Inquisitorial Court and remove or misquote the swastika symbol from their plastic aircraft models when present them on exhibitions, contests, magazine articles and hobby related forums around the internet. Since I strongly believe that scale modeling is not a political statement, but rather a source of Historical information, I do not intend to follow the hiding-the-truth hypocritical behaviour that starts to occur around the scale modeling community nowadays. Scale modeling is used for purposes of civic education, protection against anti-constitutional activities, scientific and military History research and reference for aviation enthusiasts. The swastika symbol stigmatized as being associated with German Nationalist Aryans sick wishes to conquer the World & dominate the Universe but it should never be forgotten, misquoted or deleted - it is a symbol marked a dark era of human History. Nowadays, the swastika has been outlawed in Germany, proof that the Germans ashamed (once again) of their ancestors History. In short, building WWII Luftwaffe plastic aircraft scale models with the swastika symbol on tail or wings should not be misunderstood as expression of sympathy for any neo-Nazi or extreme right-wing groups. For all the abovementioned reasons, the swastika symbol will be clearly visible on my Fl-282 V21 scale model tail fin as once appeared on actual helicopter during the WWII.

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While surfing the net, I discovered someone who had an auction item, actually a WWII German aircraft relic, that is supposed to be part of Flettner 282 helicopter. He claimed that part (with balkenkreuz insignia on) was cut out by WWII veteran US Army PFC Donald R. Nankervis who sent it to his home back in States as a War trophy. According to the instructions written on the back of the canvas, the item was a part was “taken from a German airplane stationed at Hittler’s private airport at Ainring village between Teisendorf and Salzburg, Austria”. Nowdays Ainring airport museum officials, confirm that the Flettner 282 helicopters were actually stationed there at that particular time period (7th May 1945) and used by the 3rd Reich authorities to serve Berchtesgaden & Berghof residence - this makes the story plausible enough and quite convincing, as far as the Historical data and dates. On the other hand, I have some doubts because at that time, all Kolibri helicopters were supposed to be painted with the Luftwaffe's RLM Green / Light Blue colours and not the Kriegsmarine's Grey. I’m also puzzled as to why the US serviceman didn’t cut out the entire stammkennzeichen marking, but I think that US soldiers were more interested for balkenkreuz & swastikas insignia trophies at this moment, because they symbolic represented the victory on the 3rd Reich. Possibly, the US troops didn’t have in their mind that these items will become very valuable for collectors & scale modelers 70+ years later. Additionally, if the above mentioned seller’s story is true, it turns out that the British troops were not the only ones who vandalized some one-of-a-kind (at that time) aircrafts, just to show to their friends & family back home that they fought Germans. Anyway, if the auction item is actually a genuine part of a Kolibri helicopter, the following pics are certainly valuable info, considering the rarity of helicopter’s color photographs.

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The first couple of 3D printed 1/18 scale Fl-282 helicopter models built by me as commision work on behalf of collectors, had the Kriegsmarine’s stammkennzeichen (four-letter factory radio code on the fuselage sides and repeated on the both elevator wings undersides), the balkenkreuz & swastikas insignia airbrushed on fuselage - a process that requires precision and careful masking.

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The airbrushed insignia might look nice on big scales when all the repeated masking & airbrushing layers are perfectly executed, but I am a lazy guy and I follow that “the easier, the better” motto. To do so, I designed the images on Corel, rescaled them on right dimensions and asked Mr. Triantafyllos Metsovitis, owner of LM Decals to print some right-in-scale Luftwaffe water slide decals for me. Yes, simplicity makes things flow without effort.


Luftwaffe insignia print under exact dimensions for a 1/18 scale build, is included into the 102-page ultra-detailed “1/18 Fl-282 V21 kit building instructions” manual which can be found HERE as a PDF format downloadable file.

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I used a soft brush to apply a light coat of Microscale MicroSol to soften the water slide decal and allow it to become part of the surface. As soon as the water slide decals were dry, an acrylic gloss coat applied to seal the result so far. Once the acrylic gloss coat has cured, I tried to wash the paint by brushing “Winter Streaking Grime” available by AK Interactive as AK014 filter, until the desired colour density is achieved. The outcome had tonality differences and looked like been highlighted by the sun while shades softly blend each other. Some of the wash mixture is re-applied and the wash being wiped completely out of the narrow points.

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[Nick_Karatzides]

CHAPTER VII - Radial engine(s) painting, weathering & mounting

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Setting as a task to build the model in such a way that all the maintenance hatches, removable doors, hoods & sliding panels would remain opened to make helicopter’s internal structure visible, building and later painting & weathering as required a 7-cylinder radial engine is something I should also take care of. Actually, the model’s observer can easily have a closer look inside the helicopter’s belly and also check detail on the - visible by any angle - engine details same time. Since the engine would be installed inside the helicopter's belly in the fuselage center-section, a second engine also 3D printed to be placed onto a wheeled stand and present it nearby helicopter, as it would be there for maintenance purposes - just a diorama scene idea. These two engines are almost identical with only difference that the first one is designed to fit into the helicopter’s transmission unit, while the second is equiped with a bezzel to fit a propeller and is designed to be displayed on the wheeled stand. For those who might be interested, both 7-cylinder radial engines are available HERE as 3D printed models under 1/16 and 1/18 scale, with or without the wheeled stand.

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As soon as both engine miniatures unpacked from plastic bags shipped from Shapeways and carefully examined, they were dipped into White Spirit for a couple of minutes to clean the oil & wax traces left from MJM process while 3D printing. Shortly after parts were washed and allowed to dry, a layer of Ammo Mig Jimenez AMIG2004 “White waterborne polymer primer” airbrushed over to spot cracks & imperfections and prepare for paintjob. Since I do not consider myself a highclass modeller and I had no experience to paint realistic way radial engines, I thought as a good idea to follow proven techniques described by Mr. Javier López de Anca García into the “Airplanes in scale - The greatest guide” book, hoping that I could achieve some decent results.

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Both engines received an overall base coat of Alclad II metal laquers. When metal paint completely dried, a dark oil paint wash followed using the “502 Abteilung” Black by MIG Productions. Later, the aluminum paint got some slightly different “burnt” tone, by airbrushing thinned MIG-098 Light Blue acrylic crystal around the base of each cylinder and some MIG-093 Red acrylic crystal around the head of each cylinder. The engine’s crown got some Life Color UA504 RLM 02 Grau acrylic paint and rivets shadowed with Dark Grey oil paint. As for the collector exhaust ring & pipes, they initially were painted with FS3004 Matt Burnt Umber available by Life Color as LC37 acrylic and later repeatedly washed with dense oil paint mixture of “Vandyke Brown” available by Winsor & Newton, thinned with White Spirit to a consistency between a filter and a wash. Some Light Rust available by AK Interactive as AK046 filter also randomly brushed on exhaust pipes.

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[flyjoe180]

Wow, amazing work right there Nick.

 

[Nick_Karatzides]

When powerplant paintjob looked OK to me, it was about time to attempt mounting both 7-cylinder radial engines as required - the first one onto helicopter’s tubular frame and the second one placed on the wheeled stand. As described into through pages #8 to #14 of the ultra-detailed “1/18 Fl-282 V21 kit building instructions” manual (which can be found HERE as a downloadable PDF format file), the radial engine carefully inserted underneath the main tubular frame and placed in such way to align the engine’s four slots right onto the frame’s support beams. Since the nearby battery brackets were too fragile (only 0.4 mm thick), I had to avoid violent moves while installing engine to prevent plastic fracture. As soon as the four slots were simultaneously aligned onto the support beam heads, the engine slided backwards and secured in place by adding a drop of cyanoacrylate super glue.










The drive shaft inserted into the transmission unit’s upper opening as shown on the following pictures. The drive shaft designed as a mirrored part and therefore it can be installed either on one side or the other - no matter which side is the top and which is bottom. The transmission unit should be placed on the front of the engine block from which the drive shaft ran to upper gearbox. To do so, the block carefully inserted underneath the main tubular frame, placed in such way to align transmission’s rear opening against the 7-cylinder radial engine’s front end and secured in place by adding a drop of cyanoacrylate superglue.

 

[Nick_Karatzides]

Well, it took approx 230 pictures and several thousand text words so far, to present the first actual plastic-to-plastic CA gluing. As previously mentioned into “CHAPTER III”, I prefer to follow the “paint individual parts first and assemble model later” rule, since I find it more appropriate and surely make my life easier. Seems like the WIP turns from CAD to traditional modeling now, isn’t it?














The wheeled stand for 2nd engine, also got painted with some random yellow acrylic paint and later weathered to look paint scraped, with faint areas of rust and a lot of dirt & oil stains.

 

[Nick_Karatzides]

The engine’s cooling fan, proved to be the most controversial part of the kit. What really happened? Well, first things first: The Kolibri helicopter was equipped with an air-cooled 7-cylinders radial engine located inside the fuselage center-section and enclosed by outer skin. The powerplant should be efficiently cooled somehow to ensure proper & continuous operation. To do so, air was drawn in through openings beneath the fuselage by a wooden cooling fan with direct drive from powerplant provided strong air flow towards engine’s cylinders.

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Despite the fact that “Luftwaffe Profile Series #6 Flettner Fl 282” ISBN 0-88740-921-0 book (released on 1996 by Schiffer Publishing, written by Theodor Muhr and originally publilshed on 1991 by Flugzeug Publikations GmbH under the title “Flugzeug Profile Flettner Fl 282 Kolibri Varianten”) says that “…continuous cooling provided by an eight-blade wooden cooling fan with direct drive from the engine…” (page #8), I could not find any front head view photograph of the so-called 8-bladed cooling fan.

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On the other hand, Ryszard Witkowski author of the “Rotorcraft of 3rd Reich #5109” ISBN 978-83-89450-43-2 book (released on 2006 by MMP - Mushroom Model Publications), says that “…the engine was cooled by a wooden twelve-blade fan…” (page #24), which further complicates the question on the cooling fan issue. So, what type of cooling fan was actually fitted in front of the air-cooled 7-cylinders radial engine? Was it a 8-bladed wooden propeller or a 12-bladed? Or maybe none of the above?

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To make things worst, the available diagrams are side-viewed and it’s not easy to say if the cooling fan is 2-bladed, 10-bladed or 50-bladed. IMHO, when it comes to “cooling” issue, I think that a multi-bladed fan would be more appropriate. Although a 6-bladed cooling fan had already been used on Flettner Fl-265 helicopter, the Deutsches Museum officials deny the 8-bladed or 12-bladed fan claim and they strogly support the 2-bladed propeller 90 cm Ø version - after all, they supposed to know better about Flettner 282, don’t they?

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Furthermore, I spotted more errors and incorrect assumptions into the pages of the aforementioned books, which further strengthens my doubts about the accuracy of the given information. For example, it is written that Flettner 282 had not functional elevators and they were just “dummy” horizontal stabilizers bolted to fuselage frame, which is a huge mistake because blueprints, actual pictures & videos show the exact opposite. Also, it is written that all Kolibris from V20 to V24 versions were completed as two-seaters, which is also a false claim, according to Luftwaffe’s WWII and Anton Flettner Flugzeugbau GmbH files. Anyway, since I had not a clear evidence of an 8-bladed or a 12-bladed wooden propeller use on Kolibri helicopter and having in mind that both above mentioned books had already few mistakes written into pages, the multi-bladed wooden propeller story seems a little “questionable” and the 2-bladed cooling fan version is considered as the most “plausible”, just like appeared on the Focke Wulf FW-61 helicopter which already had a single 2-bladed propeller for engine air cooling. I hope my estimations / guesswork are correct and I will not have to publicly perform seppuku because of shame.

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[Nick_Karatzides]

Once the radial engine mounting process completed, I would attempt to turn a pig’s ear to silk purse - in other words, to paint the 3D printed cooling fan in such way to look like made of wood. Since (as commented into previous paragraphs) I had not enough reference of the actual Kolibri’s cooling fan, I did what most modelers always do - improvise, hoping that final result would look nice! To do so, I used the Life Color UA716 Wood Warm light shade 2 acrylic paint, to overall spray the 2-bladed propeller. Once the acrylic base coat has cured, I used artists oil paints - actually a mixture of Burnt Sienna, Yellow Ochre and Raw Umber in a ratio of 25% to 25% to 50% - to simulate the wood grain and spread a thick layer of paint around. At this point the oils will be workable for several hours. Then, while using a clean & completely dry broad, hard brush, I dragged it over the oil paint, leaving wood grain streaks. As the brush picked up the paint, I wiped it off on a clean, lint free cloth. I left it alone to dry for 24 hours.














A day later, while oil paint was not fully dry, I used a clean soft brush to blend the streaks, just a little more. As soon as it looked OK to me, I left it few days more to dry completely and then spray it with Tamiya Color X-24 Clear Yellow acrylic, because it also helps bring the grain color out more.






The 2-bladed “wooden” propeller placed on the front end of the (previously installed) transmission block. So, this is how the assembled block of 7-cylinder radial engine, transmission unit, drive shaft & cooling fan should look like when correctly fit into each other.

 

[demon]

Very nice build and very informative as for swastikas I agree we build models of real aircraft they are part of our history


Roger

 

[Nick_Karatzides]

If the assembly sequence would follow the instructions by-the-book, the two battery packs should be placed on appropriate brackets located on either side of the transmission unit as shown in the picture from the kit manual. Since the original building idea requires to setup the 1/18 scale Kolibri model in such way to look like under maintenance (or refueling) procedure with all the hatches & sliding panels opened or removed, I decided to deviate just a little from the schedule and do something different: To unplug the batteries and place them somewhere else - possibly on some wooden box or the previously mentioned wooden ladder (click HERE), one of these unrelated to the helicopter structure additional parts which were designed & 3D printed to be used as part of a diorama scene.

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[Nick_Karatzides]

CHAPTER VIII - Crew seats & front fuselage cover assembly

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Each one of the 1/18 scale Flettner 282 V21 kits contains two crew seats for the pilot and for the rearwards facing observer. The observer’s seat consists of two perforated plywood boards, one for the bottom part fixed on a retractable bracket and one for the backrest fixed on frame rails. Cushions are placed over bottom part & backrest plywood boards to provide comfort. On the other hand, the pilot’s seat consists of a (similar cushion covered perforated plywood board) bottom part only, since he rests his back-pack type parachute against the front fuselage cover.

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Having just painted the perforated plywood boards and being quite pleased with the outcome, I decided (once again) to deviate from the instructions and skip the cushions installation - after all, the reddish varnished look on plywood boards seems to make a fine contrast with the overall RLM 71 Dunkelgrün FS 34079 and breaks the green monotony.

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[Nick_Karatzides]

Those who have followed this thread from the start, will remember that the front fuselage cover had already been covered with an overall dark undercoat and later gradually airbrushed with RLM 71 Dunkelgrün FS 34079 to achieve proper gradations of light. The front fuselage cover patiently awaited the tubular frame painting completion, in order to come the turn to be properly installed. The part carefully dragged in place along the frame tubes, until reached down on the pilot’s seat & secured in place with a drop of cyanoacrylate super glue.

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[Nick_Karatzides]

The first two production model kits under 1/18 scale, were 3D designed such way to have the seatbelts & buckles embossed on the crew seat cushions - a tactic that later altered, since customers mostly prefered to add their own harness or leave the miniature helicopter free of straps webbing. For this reason, the seatbelts shown into following pictures were built from 2.5mm to 3.5mm wide masking tape and photoetched set by Eduard, under 1/20 scale. The seatbelts later got some brownish & khaki paint - so as to make sharp & nice looking contrast against the reddish varnished plywood seatboards and the overall RLM 71 Dunkelgrün FS 34079 painted airframe cover.

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[Nick_Karatzides]

The first two production model kits under 1/18 scale, were 3D designed such way to have the seatbelts & buckles embossed on the crew seat cushions - a tactic that later altered, since customers mostly prefered to add their own harness or leave the miniature helicopter free of straps webbing. For this reason, the seatbelts shown into following pictures were built from 2.5mm to 3.5mm wide masking tape and photoetched set by Eduard, under 1/20 scale. The seatbelts later got some brownish & khaki paint - so as to make sharp & nice looking contrast against the reddish varnished plywood seatboards and the overall RLM 71 Dunkelgrün FS 34079 painted airframe cover.

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[Nick_Karatzides]

CHAPTER IX - Rear fuselage section assembly

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The rear fuselage section on real Flettner 282 helicopter was made of doped fabric covering over the steel and wooden frame. Those who have followed this thread from the start, will remember that the rear fuselage section had already been covered with an overall black / dark brown undercoat and then gradually lighten the surfaces to replicate the way that sunlight hits on large objects, following the Francois Verlinden’s old-fashioned way (which was re-introduced and become popular around the scale modelling community, by its new "modulation" name). The dark undercoat, gradually airbrushed with RLM 71 Dunkelgrün FS 34079 to achieve proper gradations of light, trying to balance between realism factor and artistic expression. IMHO modulation effect does not accurately replicate the reality, but it looks so artistically attractive and becomes easily accepted by our visual subconscious. Custom made water slide decals applied and later everything washed by brushing “Winter Streaking Grime” AK014 filter available by AK Interactive, until the desired colour density is achieved.


As described into pages #25 to #27 of the ultra-detailed “1/18 Fl-282 V21 kit building instructions” manual (which can be found HERE as a downloadable PDF format file), The rear fuselage cover part carefully dragged along the miniature's wooden frame, until reached down on the transmission pivots & secured in place with a drop of cyanoacrylate super glue.

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[Nick_Karatzides]

A year passed since April 11th 2015. A day like today and the whole World seems so empty when you miss your other half.

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[Nick_Karatzides]

A year passed since April 11th 2015. A day like today and the whole World seems so empty when you miss your other half.

Wishing to remember this day and honor her sweet & loving memory, last week Anyuta 3D decided to make an offer for few fellow modelers & skilled craftsmen by sending a limited number of coupons. During last week, few hand-picked forum members, specialy selected talented & promising modelers, received (or about to receive) their own 3D printed 1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 Kolibri cutaway model kits. By the time these lines are written, the parcels are on their way to modelers postal addresses.


Considering that approx 75 cubic centimeters of "FUD" (Frosted Ultra Detail) plastic material are needed to produce all the 40+ individual parts of each 1/18 scale Flettner 282 cutaway model kit and Shapeways factory is charging $3.49 per cubic centimeter plus $5 for handling fee per model (which explains the $270 price under normal conditions), I think that it was a great oportunity. I wish that it could be possible to get a lower price but as said before, Shapeways factory does the production and sets the price - not me. I wish modelers, could buy 3D products in lower prices but I guess that we are not responsible about this, are we? After all, the multi-hundred USD worth coupons, paid by my own budget, just to be possible to get these kits built by fellow modelers too, honoring her loving memory. Something to be remembered for.

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[Stevekir]

Absolutely amazing. Perfection. How did you manage to upload to this forum such enormously long posts? I tried to do that a month or two ago and it went wrong (images were embedded in the text but only as "Attached file xyz".


What type of file did you use to upload the posts? How did you upload them?


Thanks.

 

[Nick_Karatzides]

Steering of the Fl-282 was achieved by a combination of the rudder and differential collective pitch change on the two rotors, but only the rudder could give steering during autorotation since collective pitch was then ineffective (another reason for the large rudder area). Rudder fin (of very generous area), was made of wood and covered by fabric, with max 40° deflection left or right. This large area was necessary because much of it was ineffective due to the poor aerodynamic shape of the fuselage causing rearwards flow separation and turbulence. The vertical stabilizer and the elevators were also made of wood, with plywood leading edge and fabric covering, bolted to fuselage frame.


As described into pages #29 to #32 of the ultra-detailed “1/18 Fl-282 V21 kit building instructions” manual (which can be found HERE as a downloadable PDF format file), the rudder fin’s slots should be aligned onto horizontal stabilizer's hinges as shown on the following pictures. I tried dry fit testing before the final gluing & part secured in place by adding a drop of cyanoacrylate superglue. Since the rudder fin can be instaled turned (with max 40° deflection left or right), the servo bars should be inserted into slots & placed as required. Notice that if the rudder fin is tilted left or right or neutral, the rudder pedals at cockpit area & nose wheel, should be also positioned accordingly.

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The two horizontial elevator fins should be installed by inserting the 1.4 mm Ø pins through side openings of rear fuselage section as shown on pictures and securing in place with a drop of cyanoacrylate superglue. Keep in mind that if the horizontial elevator fins are placed tilted up or down or neutral, the cyclic / KG.13 control stick at cockpit area, should be also positioned accordingly.

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Under normal conditions, each helicopter’s registration ID was duplicated under elevator fins. After all, there are many photographic evidences certifying this feature, just like the following picture showing the CJ-SK registered Fl-282 V17 helicopter, crashed at Travemünde on April 13rd 1944, while test pilot FliegerStabsingenieur (Luftwaffe Major) Gerhard Geike was attempting a “diving nose-down and then pulling back” technique landing.

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However, there is a rare photograph of the already mentioned CJ-SN registered Fl-282 V20 helicopter assigned to Staffel 1/196 at Pillau AB as found & captured by the British Army, that clearly shows registration missing under the elevator fins. Luckily, the picture taken before helicopter been brutally disassembled, doped fabric ripped away & removed from fuselage, clipped rotor blades cut off & never seen again since that day and remaining framework wreckage with upper rotor transmission parts transferred back to UK as a War trophy and ended up as souvenirs.

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[Nick_Karatzides]

CHAPTER X - Parallel build challenge? Accepted

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When I started this project almost two years ago, I had in mind to also present the “cutaway” model kit version step-by-step WIP, as soon as the “full fuselage” model kit building would have been completed. Actually, both versions already built multiple times as commision work for collectors (for example click HERE to see both versions frames placed side-by-side, while painting process) and I only had to write the text and later attach the pictures shot during assembling & painting process.

• 1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri model kit - CUTAWAY version
  
• 1/18 scale Flettner Fl-282 V21 Kolibri model kit - FULL FSG version
  

Considering that over 130+ model kits of both versions sold since Anyuta 3D produced the very first 3D printed V6 version kit under 1/18 scale on early 2014 and due to the fact that the V21 cutaway version became quite popular the last few days, I am now thinking to change a little the basic plan and let the cutaway version step-by-step building edit into the full fuselage version WIP and present them both as a parallel project into a single forum thread.

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As you all understand, the “cutaway” version is actually based on the previously released “full fuselage” model kit, but more than 50% of parts should be CAD designed from the start in order to achieve best results. Although both versions are accurate miniatures of the Kolibri V21 helicopter under 1/18 scale, each one follows different assembling methodology. During the CAD phase, the individual kit parts designed in such way to be as easy as possible for the average modeler to build the model. To do so, the total number of tiny parts reduced (as possible) and different components combined into one part only. IMHO, building something from scratch is not so difficult - after all, we all tried some scratch once in a while. On the other hand, designing a helicopter model from scratch, exploding it into 60+ parts and make each one of them possible to get re-assembled & combined all together in order to create a miniature, is not a piece-of-cake. Speaking of a “cutaway”, the design difficulty factor gets multiplied.


If you download the 102-page "full fuselage" and the 67-page "cutaway" PDF formated building instructions manuals, you'll notice the building process differencies on the first pages. Both versions have exact same dimensions when models fully built, but each assembling process differs a little. For example, as shown into following picture:

• The "full fuselage" version kit is equiped with four full-length rotor blades (measuring approx 28 cm long each), but the "cutaway" version has the short / chopped rotor blade parts (marked into red ellipse), to simulate the Kolibri found by British Army and now preserved by Midland Air Museum, in cutaway condition.
  

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• The "full fuselage" version's main tubular frame is a little shorter (marked into red circle in following picture) than the normal-length "cutaway" version's tubular frame. This is because the "full fuselage" version's rear fuselage cover part (which simulates the doped fabric covering over the steel & wooden frame and moreover has the vertical stabilizer attached on) should be dragged along the miniature's wooden frame, until reached down on the transmission pivots. So, as you understand, few milimeters of empty space are needed to ensure the appropriate contact.
  
• The "full fuselage" version's main tubular frame is equiped with a "sleeve" (marked into purple ellipse in following picture) over the front tubular frame. Actually this is a bracket made of wood to support avionics & radio either side of the pilot at cockpit area. This "sleeve" part as well as some others like eg batteries, avionics & radio, 25 litres cylindrical fuel tanks mounted externally on both sides of the pilot, seat cushions etc are also missing from the "cutaway" version.
  
• The undercarriage support (marked into blue ellipse in following picture) is different on each version. Although both versions will show the same on this undercarriage support area when models are buit, the "full fuselage" version's main tubular frame is missing this part, since it is already attached on the rear fuselage cover part.
  

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• The vertical stabilizer of the “cutaway” version kit is offered as a separate part, which should be glued on the wooden frame. On the other hand, on “full fuselage” version kit, the vertical stabilizer is already attached on rear fuselage cover and offered as combined items.
  

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