1/32 Seafang from Iconicair

[Fenlander]

Your doing a cracking job on this Steve. Not easy to glue the resin parts as you don't get the grab of plastic welding. I was wondering though, what is the weight of this? I know some resin is light and some heavy.

 

[yak face]

Looking more like an airframe now steve , how do you think the nose section is going to fit? cheers tony

 

[stona]

It's heavy compared with styrene, but most of the parts are quite finely cast and it isn't too heavy. The landing gear is white metal so should take the extra weight.


The nose looks as if it will fit approximately at the moment! I will attempt to work out a construction system where any fixes will happen towards the bottom and not involve very thinly cast parts like the upper cowling which is literally translucent. Of course the exhausts have still got to stick out of the relevant holes


Cheers


Steve

 

[stona]

Beating the nose into shape!






Nearly there, the upper cowl fits reasonably well now, but I need to sort out the exhausts before I fit it.


Cheers


Steve

 

[stona]

I've finally got to something looking like a Seafang, or a late Mark Seafire with the wrong wings, depending on your point of view






Cheers


Steve

 

[Fenlander]

Really taking shape now, great looking aircraft.

 

[flyjoe180]

Looking good Steve.

 

[Vaughan]

coming along nicely Steve. I presume you are using superglue to hold it together?

 

[stona]

Hi Vaughan, yes, 90% superglue and a lot of the gel type at that. I've used a little epoxy (on the large internal nose structure for example) where I needed a little wiggle time and GS Hypo cement on any clear parts. As one who always uses thin cement on polystyrene I've had to really adjust my technique! I find the very thin superglues very difficult to control and only use them when there is no option. With them I tend to stick all sorts of things, including myself, to other things unintentionally


To adjust the fit I've used a few plastic card shims and a fair bit of superglue/talcum powder filler and the odd skim of Mr.White Putty. Having said that, the fit is as good as you can expect for resin and I've only had a couple of parts that needed fixing due to casting errors. One propeller blade did need a bit of work.


I got some primer on last night and this hasn't revealed any major problems (there is a little fix to do on the underside).






I'm looking forward to my favourite part, the painting. I'm currently struggling to establish the wheel well colour. I'm tempted to go with an interior grey-green wheel well, as seen on post war Spitfires and the Attacker (same wing), and aluminium doors. If anyone has any solid information on this I'd love to hear it!


Cheers


Steve

 

[Vaughan]

That's a lot of hard work Steve, but I can see it's worth it. Do you still use your Halfords primer?

 

[Robert1968]

This is looking very nice Steve


All the hard work is paying off


Regards


Robert

 

[stona]

Do you still use your Halfords primer?

I've used Halfords plastic primer.


I have read of people struggling to get paint to stick to resin and it is important to clean the parts. I've cleaned all the parts with water and I've wiped the entire model with alcohol, mainly to remove any residue from my grubby fingerprints. A lot of the model has had at least a light sanding during construction. The primer seems to have adhered well enough, though I'll know for sure when I rub it down at some time in the next couple of days.


Cheers


Steve

 

[Robert1968]

I tried Halfords primer after hearing it's supposed to be good ( I primed the 1/72 Vickerd Valient but think I may have ovwrsprayed and too much run was lest in panel lines.


I have also used pound land grey plastic spray and found this to be finer ( maybe I was too heavy handed with the Halfords.


Robert

 

[stona]

I tried Halfords primer ....... but think I may have oversprayed
Robert

It's easily done! I keep the can moving and spray in quick bursts.


Cheers


Steve

 

[stona]

I've spent the available time over the last couple of days spraying the colour and markings on the underside, the roundel blue is still wet!.






I will mask this up tomorrow and then repeat the process for the upper surfaces.


Cheers


Steve

 

[Fenlander]

I don't think I would have the patience to do that, markings look great Steve.

 

[yak face]

Nice paint steve , did you mask and spray the serial too? Tony

 

[stona]

did you mask and spray the serial too? Tony

Yep, no chance of that silvering


Cheers


Steve

 

[Vaughan]

Looking good Steve, your not hanging around with this one.

 

[stona]

I've got the Extra Dark Sea Grey (EDSG) on today. Unfortunately this is not the most exciting schemes and EDSG is just grey


I was going to use the EDSG from Xtracolor which I used on a large Spitfire floatplane a while ago and liked, however, when I opened the tinlet it had dried out somewhat with a nice 'custard skin'. This despite the tinlet being cleaned and well sealed after its previous use. This has happened to me with a couple of Xtracolor paints and is bl**dy annoying. I can keep old Humbrol paints for twenty plus years but Xtracolors last less than two!


Anyway, a quick scrabble in the generic paint draw turned up some Humbrol 123 which is supposed to be a good match for EDSG and is a good match for the now useless Xtracolor, so that's what I used.






Markings to be sprayed over the next few days.


Cheers


Steve