CA glue for PE?

[Jens Andrée]

Due to having access to dirt cheap bog standard Loctite CA glue that's what I've been using around the house for many years.
It's now been giving me all sorts of problems for the last three models I've built that's got a fair bit of PE parts and I'm now throwing in the towel and will buy something better.

Which CA glue are you using for PE (PE on plastic and PE on PE) that you claim is the best?

Bigger PE parts I solder to other PE parts but smaller parts not so much...

Many thanks in advance!

 

[Airfix Modeller Freak]

I use the ZAP medium Ca glue used commonly by modellers. Great stuff.
Mind you, the loctite stuff has it's uses, so don't scrap it
The ZAP has a opaque bottle and a green label

 

[Jens Andrée]

Cheers for the recommendation!

I won't chuck out the Loctite stuff because it has its uses, but not for gluing PE. Not for me anyway.
Will have a look to see if I can find ZAP medium somewhere local?

 

[Ian M]

I use bod standard Danalim superglue. I find that it helps a great deal to wipe the parts with rubbing alcohol (IPA) first. CA and finger grease not good.
I find also that the cheap stuff is as good as any of the "special" modelling stuff.
As an alternative, have you tried gorilla grip glue. slower setting time and cleans up with water while wet...Great for overlays. not good for assembling though.

PS do you know where and when the C4 open is this year...

 

[flyjoe180]

I can second the ZAP brand, also comes as a super-thin variety with a pink label.

 

[Jens Andrée]

I use bod standard Danalim superglue. I find that it helps a great deal to wipe the parts with rubbing alcohol (IPA) first. CA and finger grease not good.
I find also that the cheap stuff is as good as any of the "special" modelling stuff.
As an alternative, have you tried gorilla grip glue. slower setting time and cleans up with water while wet...Great for overlays. not good for assembling though.

PS do you know where and when the C4 open is this year...

The problem I've got with the Loctite is that it takes forever to set, apart from where it shouldn't set because there it sets instantly... I've used other CA glues in the past that set as soon as you put pressure on it.
I haven't cleaned the parts with alcohol prior, point taken. Will make a couple of tests on scrap parts!

Gorilla glue isn't available here for some obscure reason. We've only got white PVA glue here. Not even Titebond is allowed (?) to be sold here. I think we've got some sort of glue monopoly, or some higher up fear of certain chemicals...

C4 Open is in Malmö on the 28-29:th of October I think. I will make a visit if my body is up for it one of those days! It's something I've planned to visit

 

[Airfix Modeller Freak]

The problem I've got with the Loctite is that it takes forever to set, apart from where it shouldn't set because there it sets instantly... I've used other CA glues in the past that set as soon as you put pressure on it.
I haven't cleaned the parts with alcohol prior, point taken. Will make a couple of tests on scrap parts!

Gorilla glue isn't available here for some obscure reason. We've only got white PVA glue here. Not even Titebond is allowed (?) to be sold here. I think we've got some sort of glue monopoly, or some higher up fear of certain chemicals...

C4 Open is in Malmö on the 28-29:th of October I think. I will make a visit if my body is up for it one of those days! It's something I've planned to visit

C4? No wonder they're clamping down on chemicals! You now want explosives!:D

 

[dave]

I will need to try wiping the PE with IPA as I sometimes struggle with the small parts and the glue taking a long time to set.

I find the super thin ZAP is good where the part can be placed and held then glue run under by capillary action, i also use the standard loctite with a brush but rest it on the lid so i can touch parts held by tweezers to the brush and then put in the correct place and hold till set.

 

[peterairfix]

As I work in pound land I have been using their own make four in a pack lasts for ever

 

[stillp]

I'm using SupaFix, which comes with a filler powder that sets the glue 'instantly'. It's a pig to sand though, with the filler in it.

Pete

 

[Tony]

Hi Jens.

Getting back into my modelling and finding i need to stock up on a number of items that have gone off over the years.

I always seemed to have problems with brittle glue with etch parts coming cleanly away from the glue even having cleaning and roughed them with a file.

I have read some good things about the following. Only recently ordered so cannot add a personal comment as to what its like but based on reviews its the one i am going to try.

https://www.vms-supplies.com/product-page/flexy-5k-ca-contact-adhesive-for-photo-etched

 

[Paul Davies]

which loctite are you using? I have been using loctite for years and never had any trouble with it. Can't remember which one I do use tho. Think it is just a general purpose one.

 

[Jens Andrée]

which loctite are you using? I have been using loctite for years and never had any trouble with it. Can't remember which one I do use tho. Think it is just a general purpose one.

The "Precision" one, which is their cheapest CA glue I know of. I basically get it for nothing, but it's brittle when set (expected) and it has a random set time. I admit to not cleaning the PE parts prior which might have something to do with the issue I'm having...

I'd like to have a CA glue that is a bit thicker so I'm going to try the whole ZAP range and see how that works!

 

[Paul Davies]

The "Precision" one, which is their cheapest CA glue I know of. I basically get it for nothing, but it's brittle when set (expected) and it has a random set time. I admit to not cleaning the PE parts prior which might have something to do with the issue I'm having...

I'd like to have a CA glue that is a bit thicker so I'm going to try the whole ZAP range and see how that works!

I find the setting time does vary with how much pressure can be applied to the part. As it is the pressure that activates the glue.

 

[John Rixon]

Hi Jens.

Getting back into my modelling and finding i need to stock up on a number of items that have gone off over the years.

I always seemed to have problems with brittle glue with etch parts coming cleanly away from the glue even having cleaning and roughed them with a file.

I have read some good things about the following. Only recently ordered so cannot add a personal comment as to what its like but based on reviews its the one i am going to try.

https://www.vms-supplies.com/product-page/flexy-5k-ca-contact-adhesive-for-photo-etched

Looks like they've got some really interesting stuff on this site, worth a sniff around folks!

 

[stillp]

As it is the pressure that activates the glue.

It also needs some moisture. Simply breathing on the joint can sometimes be enough, but with porous materials it helps if you wet one surface then apply the CA to the other.

Pete

 

[Jens Andrée]

Hi Jens.

Getting back into my modelling and finding i need to stock up on a number of items that have gone off over the years.

I always seemed to have problems with brittle glue with etch parts coming cleanly away from the glue even having cleaning and roughed them with a file.

I have read some good things about the following. Only recently ordered so cannot add a personal comment as to what its like but based on reviews its the one i am going to try.

https://www.vms-supplies.com/product-page/flexy-5k-ca-contact-adhesive-for-photo-etched

That sounds really interesting! I'm going to have to read up on this in more detail...
Thanks!

 

[Jens Andrée]

It also needs some moisture. Simply breathing on the joint can sometimes be enough, but with porous materials it helps if you wet one surface then apply the CA to the other.

Pete

Yep. Pressure and breathing/blowing on the glued parts but still variable results... (good thing I'm on my own doing this because the breathing part when it doesn't work makes you breath harder, and I'm sure it looks silly has hell... :p )

 

[Ian M]

You could always try an accelerator, Some work CA on the one part accelerator on the other. Set on contact. Others work as a spray. Glue the parts and squirt with the accelerator. Both have their uses. Both have their issues.
Personally Never used either. That might change.

 

[Jens Andrée]

You could always try an accelerator, Some work CA on the one part accelerator on the other. Set on contact. Others work as a spray. Glue the parts and squirt with the accelerator. Both have their uses. Both have their issues.
Personally Never used either. That might change.

Only that the accelerator will totally chew any plastic that comes in its way so I've hidden my bottle of accelerator after trying it on one of the first models I built when I got back into the game again... That panel looked like the surface of the moon after being treated to uncle accelerator.
If applied with a kebab skewer/toothpick then it works, but then there's the issue of not having enough hands whilst doing the glue-up...

Zaphod Beeblebrox added an extra head for some outlandish reason. I'd like to add another arm, or two. That could be really useful in many cases! (not buying clothes though...)