Gloss Varnish: One coat, or more?

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Stevekir

Guest
At the moment, my only reason for applying gloss varnish is to prevent silvering of decals. I always apply a matt coat at the end. (However, when I start my car kit, I will need to get a very high final shine.).

I believe that gloss varnish (not matt) has to have its coat, or last coat if more than one, sprayed to wetness to allow the droplets to coalesce into a continuous film which is necessary to get a shine.

- Is that correct?

Spraying to wetness runs the risk of runs. I don't yet have any spare decals to experiment with.

- To prevent silvering, does the gloss coat need to be super shiny, like for a car, or just a little shiny, or someway in between?

Up to now I have been applying Vallejo Model Air gloss varnish in one coat before applying decals, spraying until the coat looks wet.

- Should I be applying a first coat, not to wetness, (therefore requiring less varnish on the second coat to get the final wet result and therefore minimising runs)?

I don't use spray cans, too fierce and uncontrollable for me, although they are quick and save cleaning an airbrush.
 
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tecdes

Guest
Have you tried Humbrol's Clear Steve. Only so far test pieced it. The results look good. Worth a try to see how it goes.

On the decals can you trim away the transparent part ie the silvering bit. I do this with all decals which are suitable for trimming.

Laurie
 
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Andy Mac

Guest
I'm wanting a high-gloss finish to my Reds Hawk, so I'll be watching this topic with interest.
 
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Thunderbird

Guest
If you are using Humbrol like the one Laurie is referring to there is a video here that might help you.
 

stona

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Steve
I usually get away with one coat of gloss.

I rub down my primer and camouflage coats before applying the gloss. It's a varnish, not a filler. If you have a rough paint finish it might take many coats to smooth it out!

Cheers

Steve
 
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CDW

Guest
I don't know if this Vallejo paint behaves the same as normal car paint in rattle cans, but your basic process is primer ... rub down....undercoat...rub down ...top coat. ..polish with a compound to finish.

You only really use laquer on metallic paints with cars which is a two-pack paint.

If you look at Johns (Huggins) car builds you'll see his process which gives a brilliant finish although he used car colour I believe
 

Vaughan

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I'd go with the Humbrol clear varnish it has good reports and as Daniel says check out the youTube Video.
 
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AlasdairGF

Guest
What should I use to rub down with before putting the gloss coats on that won't damage the paint?
 
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CDW

Guest
You can use very fine wet and dry, or as John uses... Rubbing compound from 3m.

On some models I have used autosol chrome cleaner as a very fine rubbing compound, t-cut works a treat, smokers toothpaste is another good one.

Just remember to wash all the residue off before putting another coat on, and make sure the paints fully cured before attempting any rubbing down.

Like I say this lot works well with car paint (cellulose) and I don't know if it'll be OK with model acrylic stuff as I don't use it.
 
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Stevekir

Guest
Thanks folks. I have looked at the Humbrol Clear movie. I will experiment with it, including brushing on with a brush enough coats to produce a moderate shine which seems enough for decalling. Then a matt coat of Vallejo by airbrush which goes on easily. Hopefully, any brush marks will disappear under the mat coat. I like the amount of control without hurry that a hairy brush gives.
 
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