Had my first look at PE today!

[Waspie]

As the title says, had a really good look at the PE on my second kit!! (Ryefield CH2 TES). Ooooo, I really don't like the look of that!! Tiny, fiddly, and here's me with no tools other that a few semi decent pliers. (I can hear you wincing already). So I guess this build will be a tad slow until I go into acquisition mode!!!

Any of you know any decent work rounds for the bending of the PE, some of it is very tiny? (1mm tiny!!!)

 

[Mr Bowcat]

I have to be honest, I'm a gear tart, so have all sorts of PE tools. To be honest though, the ones I use the most are the Tamiya PE pliers, if nothing else I'd suggest getting those. They are good for very small bits of PE, as well as a lot of other stuff.

 

[Allen Dewire]

Hi Doug,

Good stuff from Bob above...If your kit is RF Model #5039, then there are a few problem areas with the etch bending. I had a look at the instructions and with a decent set of PE pliers and a set of tweezers, it shouldn't be too hard. The only real headaches could be Y15/16 and Y2/3 pcs. Fitting Y9 into Y19 could be tricky. Does Y19 have etched slots for Y9 to slide into after it's bent? On piece Y1 it looks there is a slot for Y12 to slide into, so that will be ok when bent. The rest should bend ok gently using tweezers, pliers or both if necessary. HTH's a bit...Just take your time, good luck and have fun!!!

Prost
Allen

 

[Jim R]

Ooooo, I really don't like the look of that!!

That's PE for you. Quite a learning curve I'm afraid.
A decent pair of flat nosed pliers and some quality tweezers as suggested are a must.
Study the PE and decide whether to use a particular part. Is the PE part really better than the kit part - often it isn't? Also is the part so small that it ain't worth the bother?
It can be difficult to fix the part neatly where you want it. I often lightly tack the part in place with PVA, water clean up, plenty of wriggle time and in the event of a c***-*p easy to remove the part and start again. When the part is as I want it wick thin CA into the join, I use a piece of wire for that. Have a swear box handy and after quite a short time you'll be able to treat yourself to something nice!

 

[Andy T]

One tip I was given - if the PE is replacing moulded on detail (more usual if you've bought an upgrade kit), make sure you can actually build the darn PE bit before carving parts off the model

After much swearing in the past I also try and follow Jim's advice of tacking the piece in place where I can. Even a dab of plastic cement can make the surface sticky enough to hold the part temporarily, and gives some wiggle time.

 

[Mark1]

Ive an etch folder now but i used to use a steel rule and a blade for simple folds and anything else i thought ooh thatll do!

 

[BattleshipBob]

Totally agree with the excellent advice, my experience often frustrating is lots and lots of patience, and more of the same

 

[Tim Marlow]

Excellent advice here. Rule one as as far as I’m concerned is only use etch if it improves the part. Some of the box shapes they ask you to make up, for example, will be worse than the parts they are supposed to replace.
Personally I only use a decent pair of flat jawed box jointed pliers (lindstroms) for small folds, a quality record bench vice with very good jaws for medium folds, and for long folds I use two six inch or twelve inch rulers held either side of the part held in the vice. I started on etch long before the folders became available so had to use what I could get. I don’t do much etch work now so have never felt the need to upgrade. I’d recommend the pliers as a good buy though. Mine have lasted me for about thirty years so far and are one of the few indispensable modelling tools I have.

 

[Jim R]

Even a dab of plastic cement can make the surface sticky enough to hold the part temporarily, and gives some wiggle time.

That's a tip I'll definitely remember.

 

[Waspie]

Thanks for all your comments. I do have a couple of fine nose pliers that could fit the bill, so in the short term, and depending on how I get on with them I will go with the plier option.

Another question!
Does PE replace or is an option for the items in kits?

 

[Mark1]

Could be either, some kits supply pe with no other option. Aftermarket pe will be to replace kit parts and/or add extra details

 

[Waspie]

Hi Doug,

Good stuff from Bob above...If your kit is RF Model #5039, then there are a few problem areas with the etch bending. I had a look at the instructions and with a decent set of PE pliers and a set of tweezers, it shouldn't be too hard. The only real headaches could be Y15/16 and Y2/3 pcs. Fitting Y9 into Y19 could be tricky. Does Y19 have etched slots for Y9 to slide into after it's bent? On piece Y1 it looks there is a slot for Y12 to slide into, so that will be ok when bent. The rest should bend ok gently using tweezers, pliers or both if necessary. HTH's a bit...Just take your time, good luck and have fun!!!

Prost
Allen

Than you Allan for taking the time to look it all over.
Confirmed RF Model 5039. I see what you mean with Y2-3. Methinks I will be taking many of the PE steps really cautiously.
Made a start on the kit this afternoon. Found a few snags with the plastic never mind the PE. Lots of protrusions which I guess you guys call 'flash' or similar. (See pic)

 

[Allen Dewire]

Your most welcome Doug and glad to help. Those are found on other kits too. If they are out of sight, just nip them off and that's it. The ones on the outside of the hull will probably be covered by the side skirts later. Again, just nip them off and drive on with the build. You won't be able to see them on the finished product. If they are in a visible spot, nip them off and use a little putty to fill the indents and then sand them flat...Having fun yet???

Prost
Allen

 

[Waspie]

Your most welcome Doug and glad to help. Those are found on other kits too. If they are out of sight, just nip them off and that's it. The ones on the outside of the hull will probably be covered by the side skirts later. Again, just nip them off and drive on with the build. You won't be able to see them on the finished product. If they are in a visible spot, nip them off and use a little putty to fill the indents and then sand them flat...Having fun yet???

Prost
Allen

Great, thanks again Allen. I have nipped them off as they were getting in the way when dry fitting parts together. Having fun? Hell yeah. Cutting, filing, sanding and using the Dremel I thought was just going to sit in the garage as a nice expensive ornament!!!!
Finished a chopper, now tackling a bit of armour. My dilemma is what next!! Don't have a 'stash' to choose from so as Knight Templar said in Raiders!! 'Choose Wisely'!!
You guys are a real life saver to newbies like me. What a great site.

 

[Allen Dewire]

Glad to help anytime, Doug...When something comes up, just holler, real loud though, as it's a pretty long way to Germany...Oh, and remember one thing...."Asp's, veddy dangerous"!!!.........

Prost
Allen

 

[Waspie]

Glad to help anytime, Doug...When something comes up, just holler, real loud though, as it's a pretty long way to Germany...Oh, and remember one thing...."Asp's, veddy dangerous"!!!.........

Prost
Allen

The bold bit lost me!! Sorry!!
Oh, googled Bamberg. What a loverly place to live. Always wanted to live in Germany. Missed out twice but Hey Ho, thems the breaks!!

 

[Allen Dewire]

Lived here for almost 30 years Doug and It's a wonderful place...

The bold bit lost me!! Sorry!!

Oh, think in the first film, when Indy throws the torch into the tomb they opened and what his Egyptian friend said when he saw the floor was moving about with snakes.......

Prost
Allen

 

[Waspie]

Lived here for almost 30 years Doug and It's a wonderful place...



Oh, think in the first film, when Indy throws the torch into the tomb they opened and what his Egyptian friend said when he saw the floor was moving about with snakes.......

Prost
Allen

Gotcha!!!