Happened upon a muddy/rust effect

M

-Matt-

Guest
Not sure if people know about this, or if I've made it up.


Wanted to add a mud to a chassis, and was messing about a bit with some Revell weathering powders.


I ended up adding a little DecalFix to my powder blend to make a thin paste and I found that if I dabbed it over my model, held it for about 5 seconds in front of the fan heater to semi 'bake' it (I model in the spare room, gets chilly, no central heating) and then blast the excess off with a can of compressed air, it seems that you get a nice powdery coating that is held in place, and because of the compressed air you also get the detail through too.


MudTest.jpg



I would expect you could also quite easily mix up some paint, DecalFix and some baking powder to make a similar paste, dry with a hairdryer and a quick blast of air with a straw. I've had good results with baking powder to create texture as I know many here have.


Hope this helps anyone :smiling3:


-Matt-
 
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
3,118
Points
113
First Name
Adrian
I like that nice and simple, saw something similar on Facebook as it happens, but dipped that parts into Plastic weld then dusted on the rust powders.


Adrian
 

monica

“When there's no more room in hell, the dead will
SMF Supporter
Joined
Oct 30, 2013
Messages
15,111
Points
113
Location
Melbourne
First Name
monica
very nice effect Matt,will have o remember that why,looks great, ;)
 
S

Stevekir

Guest
Good idea. I have squirrelled it away for future use. I find that the less hand fiddling you do with a paint brush or dabbing on stuff and the more you rely on nature (here, the random effects of partly set glue and a blast of air) the more the result looks convincing. I tend to use PVA as a glue.
 

rickoshea52

SMF Supporter
Joined
Dec 20, 2011
Messages
3,965
Points
113
Location
North West
First Name
Rick
I use weathering powders on locomotives and rolling stock and a pigment fixer to seal it at 10-12 psi with an airbrush. You can use the fixer with a brush to create a finish with more texture. When using pigments or powders I place a sheet of A4 paper underneath to catch excess powder and gently tap the model over it to release the loose powder then tip it back in the point for reuse. Blowing off the loose powder seems a bit messy.


You might find Humbrol's YouTube channel informative -
 

stona

SMF Supporter
Joined
Jul 22, 2008
Messages
11,470
Points
113
First Name
Steve
\ said:
but dipped that parts into Plastic weld then dusted on the rust powders.
That's very brave! A more benign adhesive must surely run less risk of seriously damaging the plastic.


I have seen solvents (like PlasticWeld, which is basically dichloromethane or Tamiya Extra Thin, which is basically butanone/MEK) used in small areas where the intent is to damage the plastic to create a sort of bubbled rust effect which anyone who ever owned an Italian car will be familiar with.


Cheers


Steve
 
M

-Matt-

Guest
\ said:
You might find Humbrol's YouTube channel informative
It's this reason that I have a number of Humbrols products! I've watched a good few of their videos, though I must have missed this one. Thanks for the link :smiling3:


-Matt-
 
Top