Harde & Steenbeck & Iwata comparison.

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tecdes

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Apologies Ian not got a clue where to put this.

My family, to shut me up talking about it, bought me an Iwata Eclipse HP CS. I have used an H & S Evolution for 3 years.Thought it may be a help for any in two minds as to which brush to go for. Both are popular for model making.

As from all the talk around the Harder & Steenbeck and the Iwata are top if not the best available I have produced a comparison. Some of this is fact based some are based on my thoughts & using the Iwata for a very short time. I will up date with any further thoughts & please chip in any thoughts you may have including any which contradict my experience etc. Just as it is for information it would be best to qualify why you like one or the other rather than state H & S is best or you cannot beat an Iwata (you not wot I mean Arry).

View attachment 71754

View attachment 71755


Iwata Left H & S Right..........H & S top Iwata bottom

HARDER & STEENBECK EVOLUTION....................... IWATA ECLIPSE

Gravity fed ................................................................Gravity fed

Two Stage..................................................................Two Stage

Needle/nozzle mm .15 .2, .4 .6...................................Needle nozzle mm standard .35

Cups 2 sizes 5ML & 2 ML...........................................Fixed cup 9ml

Cup lids to each optional extra...................................Cup comes with lid

Spares for every part of brush...................................Spares for most parts not the body

Paint volume limitation adjustment.............................Option Paint volume limitation

Extra Paint restrictor memory adjustment...................5 Needle/Nozzle is available

The Iwata is certainly a bigger object than the H & S. Handling the Iwata seems heavier than the H & S but there is hardly any difference in weight. The impression is given as the H & S is better balanced while the Iwata bowl is much larger giving a front heavy feel. The Iwata HP BS exactly the same build but has a small bowl 1.5ml. Probably better balanced but a very small bowl & it does not have a cap.

The Iwata is a more complicated brush with more parts than the H & S. Where as the H & S can be dismantled quickly for washing the Iwata is more time consuming but not difficult. But the Iwata does wash out better in one piece. The paint way in the Iwata is smooth the H & S is a little rugged. Not surprising that Iwata users do not strip & wash every time as it is more complicated. That puzzled me until now.

The H & S tends to get paint creeping back up towards the rear of the needle in the needle housing. Not so far had that with the Iwata. Pity the Iwata does not have a removable cup with alternative sizes although this model also comes as variants with side cup, mini cup & bottom feed.

The H & S trigger action is not as positive as the Iwata. The H & S starts to release paint immediately the trigger is pulled. The Iwata trigger has to be moved back more to release paint. I found there was more precise control with the Iwata volume of paint. The nozzle on the Iwata seems to be longer then the H & S. It appears that the needle has a longer distance to travel giving more control of the incremental advance in the volume of paint.

The trigger spring on the Iwata is very strong compared to the H & S which needs only a light touch. May be tiring for long jobs.

The H & S comes with a paint volume control. One is available as an extra option for the Iwata. The H & S also has an extra option for a memory adjustment control ie it remembers & allows return to that point by pressing the end.

H & S spares are cheaper. Needle/nozzle H & S approx £22 Iwata £30.

Both are nice to use and I found there is not much between them. Both sprayed to give samples which for me were identical. The Iwata was much easier to control when used close to the subject producing better blobs etc & for German WW11 camouflage, for instance, performed better than the H & S. The H & S was easier to handle as it is better balanced than the Iwata. Otherwise both equal in all other modes.

SHORT SUMMING UP

Iwata more complicated to strip down. H & S simple

H & S nice to hold. Iwata front heavy.

Iwata large bowl. H & S interchangeable bowls.

Iwata better paint volume control

Iwata better for really close up work

H & S easier to handle, easier for small sessions to get into nooks & crannies (due to the big cup on the Iwata).

The above “better than this not so good as that” is very minor as all in all very little to choose between the two. Having tried both I am pleased I now have both & can revert as I please. Having to choose between the two, if I could only have one, would be difficult. Which ever is chosen will not disappoint as they are both superb airbrushes. It is the old conundrum faced in a shoe shop with 2 pairs of shoes amalgamate the two & you have perfection.

Last note. The Iwata has cutouts on the body to get at the needle holding screw. Not found out yet why ie it is supposed to assist with blockages. Also used Vallejo Model Paint for my comparison.

Laurie

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Harry Labanville

Guest
I have an iwata eclipse that I use in the garage for cellulose spraying it is clean as a whistle inside and ready for next time however it is covered from tip to end in every colour going .It is minus the end piece as its easier to release nozzle .it is a sorry looking state BUT it is ready and working.

I also has a H+S evolution which had a 0.2 needle and nozzle and was a nightmare to use one use and it was blocked.

I recently changed it to a 0.4 needle and nozzle and it was then as good as the iwata.

Out of the 2 I rate the iwata and the spares are a lot cheaper infact I think H+S are over priced.

The Iwata just works and does the job great.

I have trained myself to spray and then clean.

(except the outside I will one day.if it aint broke don't fix it )

I will report back as I intend to use the H+S for a build using acrylics only. Work in progress.

I also have one of those cheap imitations and providing you only use acrylics in it is perfect .But lately I use it for applying klear . Incidently spraying klear through an airbrush cleans it lovely if you pass water through after using it.
 
T

tecdes

Guest
Harry I would be grateful if you would let me know where you get your Iwata spares as I have only yet managed to find places which are dearer than H & S

Agree I had trouble with the H & S .2 needle. Blocks after 20 secs or so. As you have found the .4 works very well.

Laurie
 
H

Harry Labanville

Guest
If you don't know them already here in poole dorset

http://www.everythingairbrush.com/

Even if it is not shown on the site phone them and they will more than likely get it for you

And then you will be amazed how quickly it gets to you
 

Ian M

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I would just like to ask how you have posted this in a forum that is removed.....

An interesting post and some useful info.

Iwata spares... John at the Scale Model Shop..!!

Ian M
 

BarryW

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I use the 0.2 needle on the H&S all the time with Vallejo Air and primers with no issues - sometime thinned at about 10% but also, sometimes unthinned. It also works well with Gunze buffable metalisers with no thinning. I do use the 0.4 needle for varnishes though as they really do block the 0.2 needle.
 
H

Harry Labanville

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Laurie I think I got that wrong that company dosnt do Iwata spares anymore but does do H+S.

Always give them a call for remnants hanging about

As for iwata spares not so sure who has them now long time since Ive needed iwata spares.

Apart from main distributor.

\ said:
I would just like to ask how you have posted this in a forum that is removed.....An interesting post and some useful info.

Iwata spares... John at the Scale Model Shop..!!

Ian M
Not me nah nothing to do with me ,wernt me it was him :rolleyes:
 
T

tecdes

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Thanks Harry I have used this company from the time I started out 3 years ago.

\ said:
I would just like to ask how you have posted this in a forum that is removed.....An interesting post and some useful info.

Iwata spares... John at the Scale Model Shop..!!

Ian M
Ian Looked for paint but that seems to have been exterminated. So being an old impatient soul (or is it Sole) I posted it in Chit Chat. Where did it end up ?

Yes I am aware that John has the Eclipse CS Ian and at a remarkably low price. That is a snip. But there are no spares for the Eclipse.

Laurie
 
T

tecdes

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\ said:
I use the 0.2 needle on the H&S all the time with Vallejo Air and primers with no issues - sometime thinned at about 10% but also, sometimes unthinned. It also works well with Gunze buffable metalisers with no thinning. I do use the 0.4 needle for varnishes though as they really do block the 0.2 needle.
Interesting Barry. Had no end of trouble. Even tried a new needle nozzle. How much do you thin the primer & assume the model air ? What pressure are you using ? Use normally 20psi.

Also interesting that Iwata for the Eclipse are suggesting 20 to 35 PSI (latter for heavier paints). They also suggest acrylics is going towards a heavier paint. Steve (Stona) also says he uses 35psi. but that may be for enamels.

Laurie
 

stona

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I've had many Iwata bits from here over the years.

https://airbrushes.com/index.php?osCsid=4feeae3326956442bb537a4c32ff4870

I once emailed a query to them and got a reply from the then boss (maybe still?) Ken Medwell who was on holiday on a beach in France! That's pretty good customer service :smiling3:

Cheers

Steve
 

BarryW

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Laurie, the air pressure I use is about 25psi with the Model Air thinned at 10% - I do not thin the primer at all, usually.

Phil Flory also uses the 0.2 needle with his H&S. I really do not know why it works for one and not the other.
 

stona

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I think that most modellers spray at far too low a pressure. I've been steadily upping mine for a while. I now spray (enamels) at about 35 psi. A friend who is a graphic designer and artist, and who also builds the most amazing doll's houses, miniature shops etc, thinks this is still too low. She sprays at up to 50 psi !

Everyone just has to fiddle about and find what works best for them and their set up and paint. Don't be scared of pushing the parameters though. Up the pressure and see what happens. Increase or decrease your thinning and see what happens too.

Cheers

Steve
 
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Practice, practice, practice. With my full size guns there were recommended pressures/settings for use.

However, I found the settings and pressures that suited me best by trial & error. One of my work mate's uses the same gun as me (£400 pounds worth) in his garage, but we both work at different pressures and paint/thinner mixes, fan widths, but get the same results!

I have been using full size spray-guns since I was 15, but still keep learning something new all the time. It only needs a new pot of paint to be slightly thicker/thinner than another (it happens) and you end up having to compensate. A thing that a lot of people fail to take into consideration is, temperature! The ambient temperature of the workplace you are working in, can have a significant influence on how your paint flows.

and atomises. Once again this will only be solved by practice.

As you will have seen from the posts, different people, different advice (all good) try them all and add some!

To find a set up that suits yourself, experiment, as we all work differently even with the same equipment, just keep practicing.

Gregg
 
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H

Harry Labanville

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Now that ive spayed some paint through my H+S. Evolution with its new 0.4 needle and nozzle without it stopping working. I can say that i am a lot more confident in using it ..
 
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