Help with Cements and other oddities...

[Mini Me]

Thanks for that Tim....it helps me understand better what's going on when when I'm using these products. I did know about Ketones reacting on plastics from when I was in the Airline industry. All the interior sidewall panels were assembled in the shop with M.E.K. That little trick has allowed me to get a lot of mileage out of a bottle of liquid cement.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Thanks for that Tim....it helps me understand better what's going on when when I'm using these products. I did know about Ketones reacting on plastics from when I was in the Airline industry. All the interior sidewall panels were assembled in the shop with M.E.K. That little trick has allowed me to get a lot of mileage out of a bottle of liquid cement.

I once forgot to take in adhesive on a quiet night shift so used some ether out of one of the labs…..worked fine, but I wouldn’t recommend it though.

 

[Jakko]

both do the same job

So does this:



… if you want to stick your model together with that.

The point is that different solvents act slightly differently when used to stick model bits together, as Tim explained pretty well, and that lets you choose which one to use for any particular job based on your preferences and what you think will do the job best. If, for you, that’s always the same one, then go for it.

 

[Scratchbuilder]

Thanks Gentlemen, I now have an idea of what to expect when I try using these various products. I wasn't sure about the decal setting solution as it was a little "milky" looking and is that normal? All the other setting solutions I have had experience with were clear. Here's the next mysterious item ....it came with no paper work or other information....View attachment 487537

It's a ray gun.....

Soldering iron try this link https://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-cordless-soldering-iron-64034.html.

 

[Mini Me]

Thanks for the link Mike.

 

[Mini Me]

Here's the next batch of oddities I have never used before. Let me know if you like them and how well they perform and in what capacity.

 

[JR]

I've used those oilbrushers Rick, seems ok. Would take all the trouble of putting oil paint on some cardboard . allowing it to dry before using for weathering.

Think that bottle on the right , a water colour in black might have been for picking out seams, weldlines, that sort of thing.

No idea on the Wilder, something or someone that fixes things for you

As for the one on the left just another masking solution for use say on windows while you paint.Then its picked off .
HTH

 

[Tim Marlow]

The Neo looks like liquid masking, like Humbrol maskol.
Johns covered the oil brushers.
The fixer looks like watercolour fixative, used for “fixing” things like watercolour paintings and pastel chalks. Basically a bit like a varnish but much more fluid. I’ve found it dries a bit shiny, but have only used the Windsor and Newton version.
The right hand Hydrus bottle looks like acrylic ink, just like the Daler Rowney FW inks. Very good off the brush or in a mapping pen for lining work.

 

[stillp]

The Wilder fixer might be intended for fixing pigments.
I've tried that masking liquid but found that it doesn't stick very well, so you can't trim it after it's dried or it just comes off.
Pete

 

[Jim R]

I bought 3 of those Oilbrushers when they first came out. I have used them but they are a very expensive way to buy oils. They have no advantage, in my opinion, to a blob of W&N paint and some thinner.

 

[JR]

I bought 3 of those Oilbrushers when they first came out. I have used them but they are a very expensive way to buy oils. They have no advantage, in my opinion, to a blob of W&N paint and some thinner.

Agree Jim. Although easy to use they are just another expense if you already have a box of oil paint tubes.
Even tried some " water based " oils from I think W&N. Yes a strange idea and contradictory name . Used once and now languishing in a box . Steve Jones loves his oils for weathering .

 

[BarryW]

I have used the Neo and I am not impressed with that as a masking fluid There are better out there.

I also have the full range of oil brushers. They are just an easy mess free way of using oil paint for weathering. One use for these is ‘oil dotting’ in which you dot your painted surface with various shades of oil paint and then use a brush dampened with white spirit to wipe over the surface gradually spreading the oil and removing surplus until you get the stained and variates finish you want.

Oils are also useful for creating a wood effect. Spray a surface with a tan or light brown shade and, when fully dry and cured, spread oil paint on the surface. Then before it dries use a brush and with a squiggly motion create the effect of wood grain.

The big disadvantage of oils is that they take ages to dry and cure off, days and days.

Below is an example of oil dotting on the inner wings of an ICM 1/32 I-16. This was an aircraft made partially of wood and I wanted to give the impression of wear on the inner wings where pilots and maintenance crew walked. I used various brown and sand shades. Worth noting that I also used black basing, pre and post shading, panel line washes and on metal areas Uschi Metal powders for chipping. They

 

[Tim Marlow]

I have used the Neo and I am not impressed with that as a masking fluid There are better out there.

I also have the full range of oil brushers. They are just an easy mess free way of using oil paint for weathering. One use for these is ‘oil dotting’ in which you dot your painted surface with various shades of oil paint and then use a brush dampened with white spirit to wipe over the surface gradually spreading the oil and removing surplus until you get the stained and variates finish you want.

Oils are also useful for creating a wood effect. Spray a surface with a tan or light brown shade and, when fully dry and cured, spread oil paint on the surface. Then before it dries use a brush and with a squiggly motion create the effect of wood grain.

The big disadvantage of oils is that they take ages to dry and cure off, days and days.

Below is an example of oil dotting on the inner wings of an ICM 1/32 I-16. This was an aircraft made partially of wood and I wanted to give the impression of wear on the inner wings where pilots and maintenance crew walked. I used various brown and sand shades. Worth noting that I also used black basing, pre and post shading, panel line washes and on metal areas Uschi Metal powders for chipping. View attachment 487688They

I have found oils dry much faster if you use a scrap of cardboard to leach off the majority of the oil carrier first Barry. Basically, put a small blob on a square of box cardboard (I use Amazon mailing packs) and leave it for an hour or so. You will see the oil leach out into the cardboard around the blob. It is then ready to use. Use Sansodor as your brush dampener as well. Again it improves drying time and is less aggressive towards the model than white spirit.
Doing this I find lamp black and the earth colours (ochres and umbers, the ones we most use) dry overnight and are totally matt in the morning.

 

[Mini Me]

Many Thanks for all the useful information I am receiving from you guys...I was particularly vexed by the Fixer. Since I have this stuff, I might as well try and use as much of it as possible.....I like Barry's idea of dotting and the washing to blend....very helpful. Also the suggestion from Tim on improving drying time when using oils for weathering. Once again, Thank You All for your valuable input.