Masking Tape A Guide by Ray

S

sprayman

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There is nothing worse than peeling your masking tape off from your latest spray job and seeing the paint removed with the tape, and I bet most of you know the feeling.

So I thought I would do a quick guide that I use and has served me well, as always this is not Gospel, but has never failed me in the past.

First lets look at the tapes abound, we all know and most of us have Tamiya tape, been used for years and is the weapon of choice for most.

But there are alternatives, In my case I love low tak auto tapes( what a shock I hear you say..lol ), which can be bought at most auto suppliers, you could pay about £4-£5 for a roll but you get 25M of the stuff, make sure it states Low Adhesive or low tak, if it doesn't say then walk away.

Okay we have our job ready, now its time to place the tape, most of you know about putting the tape on a sheet of glass and peeling it back to lower the adhesive on the back.

Try not to yank the tape off the glass,take your time, on low tak tape, most of the adhesive pulls away from the edges of the tape, which in turn leads to bleeding of the paint.

Place the tape on your model, and with a cotton bud rub the edges only, light pressure is all that is needed, and avoid putting to much pressure on the rest of the tape.This also helps prevent paint bleed.

Okay off you go and spray your job, try if possible to avoid banging to much paint on the tape, spray gentle of the edges of the tape, for good results you should be able to see most of the original tape colour after your spray job.

Now we come to the removal of the tape, get "when and how" wrong and the door opens for mr cockup.

Remove the tape within a few hours of finishing your paint job, the longer the tape is on your model the more time things have to go wrong. I avoid doing a paint job and leaving the tape on over night, I work to the few hours rule.

The tape sticks faster the longer it's left. The only other thing with tape that would cause problems is, if you apply paint too thick and let it dry too much before removing the tape.

Now I peel my masking tape off like this, with a slow pull:

The sharp angle and slow pull, helps minimise pulling the paint with it, as we are easing the tape off the paint rather than yanking or dragging it.

Now lets look at a disaster and try and find the causes:

Not a nice sight, but things happen, okay we need to know why.

1. We did not prime our model, hence giving our paint nothing to adhere to.

2. We did not wash our model, so in turn we are spraying our primer on to a greasy, surface, grease and oil are great aids to lifting paint or primer.

3. We did not let our base coat dry enough, eye dry or touch dry is not a real test to see if the paint has dried, surface paint dries quicker than under surface paint. I would advise a minimum period of 24 hours before masking.

paint that has not cured enough before being covered with the tape,prevents the solvents from the uncured paint from escaping to the air.

4.Yanking the tape, remember we are persuading the tape to leave the surface not useing force to lift it.

I hope this guide serves you well, and helps avoid those disaster moments, and thanks for taking the time to read this.
 

stona

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Very well written Ray,some top tips there. That's pretty much exactly how I go about it. I try to remove masking from paint as soon as is practicle. Sometimes this is about an hour.

Cheers

Steve
 
F

Fenlander

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Excellent stuff Ray. Must admit I am a slave to Tamiya and model related tapes. Didn't know there was a 'low tack' auto tape, great info.
 

AlanG

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\ said:
Excellent stuff Ray. Must admit I am a slave to Tamiya and model related tapes. Didn't know there was a 'low tack' auto tape, great info.
Much the same as myself. You have seen the problem i had with the Tamiya tape on my FW190D-11 and my Stuka. I shall defo be on the lookout for some of this auto tape now. Thanks again Ray
 
D

djbozz

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I find that if you prepare surface with 2000 grit wet & dry thouroughly, the paint sticks much better, never comes off with Tamiya tape(so far) :praying:
 
S

sprayman

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Its always good to put back into this forum, models and paints are not cheap, and any tip that saves a disaster is worth considering.

Dont limit your search for low tak tape to auto suppliers Im sure the DIY giants sell the stuff also, avoid if possible the unbranded masking tape, it may feel low tak but these can sometimes leave the adhesive residue on your paint job.

Sorry to hear about your disasters Allyne, I bet that caused a few expletives.

Thanks for reading and your comments.
 
S

Sky Raider

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I get my tape from the pouns shop, ive also seen it in B&Q, 4 rolls in a pack for a pound. Buying cheap tape serves 2 purposes, one it is low tack and 2 it is almost transparant and is good when tracing lines below.

Andy
 

john

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Great tut Ray, I think I'm guilty of not leaving enough time between primer and main coat, I can be a bit impatient.
 
S

sprayman

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I think alot of masking disasters stem from not waiting long enough for the base coat to dry, and leaving the tape on to long after you have sprayed, and we all are guilty at some point of been impatient John.
 

Centurion3RTR

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Excellent guide Ray, thanks for posting mate. I'll be useing this when i get to the car kit.

Have fun, John
 
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Bunkerbarge

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Great tutorial Ray, many thanks for putting it together. It's stuff like this that helps us all along the path to becoming better modellers and is what helps to make Scale Models the amazing resource it is today.
 
S

sprayman

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Its been a pleasure to do for this forum, many thanks for the support.
 
S

Spyderman_uk

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A tip I have been told, but not tried yet is to spray clear lacquer onto the edge of the masking tape before putting on the top colour.

This helps avoid paint creep under the tape.

It doesn't actually avoid it, but any creep is by the clear, and if you lacquer over it all afterwards then is invisible.
 

wonwinglo

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The importance of washing your model before any painting takes place cannot be over emphasised,the culprit is a substace called 'mould release agent' and it clings to the parts until they are treated with a good wash in soapy water,I use baby shampoo which rinses off the parts well and you can see the oily substance go down the plug hole,and talking of plug holes remember to place the parts that you are cleaning in a strainer of some kind,even once the agent has been removed wash the parts under ordinary running water before drying them out on some lint free cloth.

For extra adhesion on large surfaces before painting first with Holts primer white run some very fine wire wool over the surface to give a better key.

And also take into consideration the adhesive powers of acrylic paint,this does not grip as well as the old enamel finishes so you need to be careful,if possible always do a test piece on a portion of the model that is out of the way,or a sizeable piece of sprue first to avoid any nasty surprises.

Wonwinglo.
 

Gern

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Terry, I tried that idea of touching up with Klear before painting. Not absolutely sure why, but the Klear stuck the tape to the kit and I had to scrape it off - my scraping ruined the edge I wanted so I had to re-paint. That may all be my fault though. I may have overdone the Klear or maybe it reacted somehow with the adhesive on the tape.

I have also heard of a similar trick. Some folks spray first with the colour that is already under the tape. That way, if there is any creeping under the edges, it's the same colour so it won't show. The spray should also seal the tape to prevent further seepage.

Gern
 
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