Microsol

[Bunkerbarge]

I am not quite sure where to post a request for modelling help but as it hopefully may generate a Tutorial I'll give this a go.

It is actually a long number of years now since I applied a water slide transfer (they may be a decal to you but they will always be a transfer to me!) and I know I am going to have to do it again in the not too distant future with my current project.

I intend making my own with the aid of a computer and some sheets of transfer paper but I would like to know what this business is all about as regards Microsol. How do you use it, what does it do, what are the pitfalls, is it really worth it etc.. etc.. Any help from anyone who has used it would be very much appreciated.

Also on a similar subject the last time I did apply transfers I sprayed the model with a matt clear varnish to seal them. No matter how well I shook the tin I ended up with a deepening of the colour and a satin rather than a matt finish. I used a mini tin of Humbrol spray. This put me off the idea but I still want to seal the transfers as I am talking about a Radio Controlled boat. Did I do something wrong?

 

[wonwinglo]

Richard if this is the product that I am thinking about it is basically a decal softener,I use white vinegar for the self same purpose when applying good old transfers to irregular surfaces such as corrugations etc,all that it does is to soften the gelatine of the decal making it easier to follow any curves present on the model.

Regarding darkening of the paint when clear matt finish is applied this is quite normal,why not try sealing first with Johnsons Klear/Future then applying a varnish if required,JK will certainly darken any finish usually in steady stages as it soaks into any paint,especially matt finish but it is a useful and versatile finish.

Regarding printing out your own decals via a computer this is quite a good way to get to do offbeat designs,firstly do your homework in a paint programme such as Paintshop pro etc save it to a file and do some test prints onto ordinary paper,once happy you can purchase some special waterslide clear decal paper onto which you print the design etc,then seal with Johnsons and slide off in th normal fashion,I have also used T-Shirt printing papers with some success,however the fine membrane is difficult to remove successfully from the backing paper.You cannot print white so need to plan your design say to go over a white painted ground but otherwise good results can be obtained.

I have also had good results with a digital camera image of a marking that was scaled down in Paintshop to a miniscule size and printed out ( you can even use the original marking if a decent picture is taken first of the design ),I did my Automobile Association decals for the Rapide model in this fashion,there ios plenty of room for experimentation.

Anyway I hope that this will assist you and perhaps encourage you to experiment to get the best results.

 

[Bunkerbarge]

Hi Barry,

Thanks for the help, I don't have many concerns regarding the making of my own transfers, although I had forgotten about the white so I may have to manufacture a mask to go over a white panel.

I was more unsure as regards this Microsol decal softener though as I have never used it. Do you paint the decal with it prior to application or before you soak it? or do you wait for it to dry? I've no idea really how to use it.

As for the matt varnish I am now a bit concerned that all the effort to generate the correct colour and surface effect seem to be washed out when you spray the varnish or Kleer over the model. I may give that bit a miss and just concentrate on getting the transfers right.

Thanks again

 

[wonwinglo]

Richard,all of the decal softeners are just weak acetic acid ie vinegar,once the decal has been applied flood them with this solution,leave for a few seconds and keep flooding until slight pressure will show a softening of the film,you can also remove old decals with this process with patience,you cannot use too much as it is very weak anyway.

Remember most model matt paints are too matt anyway,only factory finished machines were even and soon got sullied in service with engine and hydraulic film over the airframe,the most realistic finish is obtained by literally rubbing over with your fingers,the natural oils bring out the true colours.I would not get too paranoid about some darkening,most decals benefit from some form of protection otherwise they will lift,especially on matt surfaces where they quickly loose any adhesion.It is one of those catch 22 situations we get in model building,all adds to the challenge ! best of luck anyway.

 

[Nigel.D]

microsol +micro set

Richard!!

please do not use vinegar it has a tendancy to bleach the more modern transfers as their film is a lot thinner now!!

I have been using micro sol and micro set for years. and i can honestly say that i have never come across a better product. The trick is to use both

1 make sure that the surface is glossed either with a varnish or future (future is better as it doesnt discolour (glossed means glossed not satin )

2 soak your decal for approx 30 secs in warm water

3 apply a liberal coating of micro sol (the blue bottle) to the transfer position (this is a wetting agent and it helps the decal conform without airbubbles, it also allows you the ability to slide the decal into place

4 once the decal is positioned then brush on some micro set (the red bottle) this is the softening agent it will allow the decal to conform to even the most iregular surface (do not use the same brush for each bottle)

5 the decal may look like it is crazing or even on the point of breaking up (dont panic) leave to dry for 24 hrs and it will lok like its painted on.

6 finally you need to give it a coat of varnish matt satin gloss whatever the subject

micro sol and set is readily available i get mine from Hannents if you want i can send you some to try?? Word of warning do not repeat not use humbrol decal coat it is worthless (my opinion) If you want more info give us a shout

 

[Bunkerbarge]

Gents,

Very many thanks to you for your help. It certainly all makes a bit more sense now. I actually already have bottles of both the Microsol and Microset but I wanted to get some idea of how to use them.

I very much appreciate your input and assistance. This won't be happening until I return to the UK in mid January so don't hold your breath but I like to research these things to death before I experiment on all sorts of bits of scrap. Keeps my mind on something usefull while I am at work.

All the best

Richard

 

[Nigel.D]

no probs mate anything to help

 

[wonwinglo]

Richard seeing as you like getting things just right,then a good idea is to have a model to use as a paint hack,some old airframe that has seen better days that you can experiment to your hearts content with,these old models are excellent for trying out things before you commit yourself to different paint techniques,I am about to use one to see the different ways of attaining Italian air force colours for a future model project.

 

[Nigel.D]

Italian Airforce ( hope its a folgore????????)

 

[Dave1973]

microsol +micro set
Richard!!


please do not use vinegar it has a tendancy to bleach the more modern transfers as their film is a lot thinner now!!


I have been using micro sol and micro set for years. and i can honestly say that i have never come across a better product. The trick is to use both


1 make sure that the surface is glossed either with a varnish or future (future is better as it doesnt discolour (glossed means glossed not satin )


2 soak your decal for approx 30 secs in warm water


3 apply a liberal coating of micro sol (the blue bottle) to the transfer position (this is a wetting agent and it helps the decal conform without airbubbles, it also allows you the ability to slide the decal into place


4 once the decal is positioned then brush on some micro set (the red bottle) this is the softening agent it will allow the decal to conform to even the most iregular surface (do not use the same brush for each bottle)


5 the decal may look like it is crazing or even on the point of breaking up (dont panic) leave to dry for 24 hrs and it will lok like its painted on.


6 finally you need to give it a coat of varnish matt satin gloss whatever the subject


micro sol and set is readily available i get mine from Hannents if you want i can send you some to try?? Word of warning do not repeat not use humbrol decal coat it is worthless (my opinion) If you want more info give us a shout

Errrrr..... Microsol is RED not blue, the blue bottle is micro set.


The micro sol is SOLvent, meaning it dissolves the decal partially, and using too much can destroy the decal.


Everything else you said is NEARLY CORRECT, you use micro set to place the decal I. Position and float it. Hence the name SET, setting the decal. You then dab away excess micro set and water, and apply Microsol, and leave overnight.

View attachment 120682

 

[colin m]

Errrrr..... Microsol is RED not blue, the blue bottle is micro set.
The micro sol is SOLvent, meaning it dissolves the decal partially, and using too much can destroy the decal.


Everything else you said is NEARLY CORRECT, you use micro set to place the decal I. Position and float it. Hence the name SET, setting the decal. You then dab away excess micro set and water, and apply Microsol, and leave overnight.

Dave, you just replied to a 10 year old question. You don't work in customer service do you ?

 

[Dave1973]

No but I messed up my first F1 model by reading mis-information, and seeing as it hadn't been corrected, I wanted to make sure nobody else messed up.


Putting Microsol on a wet decal and trying to move it around is like giving a wasp a shotgun!

 

[colin m]

It's a good point Dave, there are lots of new people around who might get a bit confused. I have to remind myself it's blue to go, red to stop. Not quite like traffic lights, but close enough.

 

[Bunkerbarge]

It just goes to show the wealth of information we have in the archives on here and how it is still valuable and useful even ten years down the line.