New camera or new lens

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Neil
Hello,

So after taking my pics yesterday I realised that my camera is now showing it's age. It is Nikon D50 which I probably bought when they came out in 2005 with two lenses:

18-55mm

70-300mm

The problem is that neither is great for macro - well the 70-300 may be better I need to try on the tripod but even then it only has a 6.1Mb - my phone probably has near the same and actually in comparison takes better close-up shots.

I don't really want to buy a new camera right now (airbrush first), but I'm thinking it needs to be looked at. I was wondering though whether a newer macro lens - a nikkor-Micro I guess Nikon call them - would be worth looking at, I can use that with my current camera and then when I do get another I could use it then too - though it would tie me to having another Nikon.

Thanks,

Neil
 

dave

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A new lens will make very little difference. It is only one factor in the quality the other two being the Mp and sensor size. As the Lenses came with the Camera I will assume they are Nikkor lenses and thus reasonable quality, so a Nikkor macro ( for some reason they are called Nikkor micro) lens with a fixed focal length will give you an improvement in quality but it will probably not be visible in the final image given the 6.1Mp of the camera sensor.

For the time being you are probably better off using the 10-300 mm lens on a tripod from further away.

If you are looking at replacing the camera your existing Nikkor lenses are almost certainly compatible with a new body and depending on the kits available you may be able to save money by buying a body only and then adding a Macro lens later. (Some of the newer lenses are better, but on the low-end DLSR kits you may find they are supplying the same lenses you already have).

As Nikon have retained considerable compatibility you could also look at buying a second-hand macro lens from a reputable camera shop. I just replaced my old film Nikon with a new DSLR and for the time being will continue to use my existing Nikon fit Sigma 75-300 APO Macro lens, although I will look to replace it in a few years with a new Nikkor lens with VR (image stability) capability.
 
L

Laurie

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Had the same dilemma Neil and bought a Macro lense. Problem is macro lens are very expensive. Mine was cheaper but only as it did not have zoom ie you have to adjust the camera itself to adjust the area of the picture to be taken.

So I reverted for most to the macro on the bog simple camera short lens. But this is not real macro just the camera adjusts as best possible for the settings. Also on a tripod with a longer exposure this helps a great deal to get the best possible from the camera.

If you want close pictures I found the cheapest way is to take the pictures on as higher resolution that the camera has and the minimum distance form the lens in focus. The pictures are not close as you may want. I then use a camera edit programme, came with my Olympus camera. You can then crop and enlarge to your requirements. You lose some resolution but as the pictures have been taken on high resolution they do not suffer to much. For presentation on a Computer monitor the loss of resolution does not show. The edit programme also has a lot of other helps including a sharpness facility which helps providing it is subtly used.

I think there is no doubt that high cost equipment will produce crystal clear pictures and so really it depends on what you want in quality. My camera is an Olympus E410 about 6 years old. Cost £500 but you can pick up near pristine stuff of the same model on Ebay for a £100. So it is worth looking for second hand gear.

Laurie
 
P

Plastickitbasher

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If it's any help I use the following

Sigma 50mm Macro

Sigma 105mm Macro

I also have by todays standard an old Cannon 30D
 
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Neil
Well I'll try the cheapest option first ... the tripod I already have that!

Also I have photoshop elements, I always forget I have that so I will try adjusting with with my photos with that as well.

Thanks for the advice guys, I probably do want to replace my camera but not this year, my PC is getting old, luckily I can actually build that myself but still need to buy the parts and I really want an airbrush first, so if I can get away without changing the camera I will. I'll take a look at some Sigma lenses too on ebay.
 
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I'd ask what you're going to use the photos for. I have rather a nice 18MP DSLR, I rarely use the full 18MP as the files get cropped for screen in any case. Macro work is probably a little small for most models as a true macro lens can produce images at 1:1, as in a postage stamp can fill the whole image sensor. Great for ants, less handy for a 1/72 spitfire. My top tips would be too set the camera up on a tripod, frame carefully and use apature priority to affect how much is in focus (depth of field). That and the way you light the subject make a big difference. If you use a desk lamp and set the camera to white balance:incandecent light bulb, you can create fairly true colours and nice shadows.

Jambo

Sent without a real keyboard
 
J

John Rixon

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\ said:
Well I'll try the cheapest option first ... the tripod I already have that!Also I have photoshop elements, I always forget I have that so I will try adjusting with with my photos with that as well.

Thanks for the advice guys, I probably do want to replace my camera but not this year, my PC is getting old, luckily I can actually build that myself but still need to buy the parts and I really want an airbrush first, so if I can get away without changing the camera I will. I'll take a look at some Sigma lenses too on ebay.
The beauty of using a tripod is that you can lower the ISO setting to its lowest (Sadly, 100 on most cameras - does nobody remember PAN F?). This means you have access to all apertures, meaning you can get stuff focussed better at low shutter speeds. It also means that you'll almost eliminate the biggest problem with digital photography - noise. Macro lenses are fine, but devils for depth of focus, and for most scales, not really necessary. If you have photoshop elements, then shoot in RAW and install the Adobe RAW plug in (Free from Adobe site) then you can tweak exposure and colour in a way you'd think impossible!
 

dave

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\ said:
(Sadly, 100 on most cameras - does nobody remember PAN F?).
I remember PAN F I used it a lot doing my City and Guilds, Fuji Velvia was another at ISO 50.
 

john i am

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Phew there's a lot to be considered in the art of photography and the world of cameras.I have noticed how a great photo can make all the difference though so the science of it all is worth it in the end when you subject is enhanced by great lighting filters and photoshop.I just wish I knew the 1st thing about it but I don't.So it's the trusty old iPad for me point n shoot mode lol please forgive my ignorance on this subject cheers John
 
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John Rixon

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\ said:
Phew there's a lot to be considered in the art of photography and the world of cameras.I have noticed how a great photo can make all the difference though so the science of it all is worth it in the end when you subject is enhanced by great lighting filters and photoshop.I just wish I knew the 1st thing about it but I don't.So it's the trusty old iPad for me point n shoot mode lol please forgive my ignorance on this subject cheers John
These days, many Phones have good cameras, and if used in good lighting, are ridiculously good for their size. iPad has one such camera, but recommend finding something to lean it on whilst shooting, that will eliminate one of the most common problems - camera shake!
 
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John Rixon

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\ said:
I remember PAN F I used it a lot doing my City and Guilds, Fuji Velvia was another at ISO 50.
Hah! I was taught the principals of photography on my Foundation course - using PAN F and 5"x4" studio cameras - man that had fine grain!
 
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