Paint's too thin / not sticking to the plastic.

W

Weeman0000

Guest
Also, would this be fine for priming/white coat for interiors? (Has anyone use it/what was the result)


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rustoleum-AE0040028E8-400ml-Surface-Primer/dp/B001W03PSQ/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1438943544&sr=8-10&keywords=Primer


I was going to get a rust red one as well for a base undercoat for exterior that i could maskall over and put down a base coat, should give a nice undercoat while allowing me to have a rust undercoat if i needed it.
 
D

dubster72

Guest
I've used Rustoleum rattle cans before & they're ok.


From a can in light colours, I'd recommend Tamiya Fine Surface Primer or Mr Surfacer 1200 - although they absolutely stink, so a well ventilated area is a must!


For more control, try Tamiya white through an airbrush - it gives excellent coverage.
 

Ian M

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First off, white is always a pain in the bum regardless of type of paint or brand. So you are not alone on that one.


Although not all do it, I recommend a wash in warm soapy water and leave to dry.


Prime. Again not all do it, but if you are having issues, its the next best place to start.


Once primed leave it alone to cure for at least a day or two. It might feel dry, but it needs time to harden.


Paints, any paints need to be totally mixed. When you have done that, mix them some more.


Enamel paints keep almost indefinitely. I have some that at 40 years old and work just fine. They are only really dead if they have dried up in the tinlet, so always wipe the rim before putting the lid on.


If needed thin the paint and paint on the subject. let it dry and cure. If not 100% hardened you risk dragging the previous coat of when you apply the new one....


Also worth mentioning, especially in the warmer months. Sweaty fingerprints and paint dont mix. Either dont touch the surfaces to be painted, or wear a glove. Latex or cotton (watch out for fluff!).


These are my thoughts on it and Everybody has there own preferences so expect others to come with a solution totally different to my ideas.


As a by the bye, Humbrol paints are in the process of bringing production back to the UK after their sales plummeted as fast as the complaints rose. They admitted that it was not the best idea they have had. So Humbrol paints are only going to get better...If only they could bring back their Authentic range...


Ian M
 
D

dougie

Guest
If you are going to 'molest' the paint tin... At least you know it comes off easy.
 
L

Laurie

Guest
As said before has another paint colour or another paint manufacturer's paint been tried ?


That will eliminate almost all the problems at least it will reduce the number of reasons for the problem.


This would be my number one if I had problems.


All paints produced are under 99% of circumstances going to perform whether they are Revell Humbrol Vallejo how ever much you love or hate them etc.


There is either a paint manufacturers problem (try another manufacturer's paint) or a problem with the surface the paint is applied to (try another surface other than the present model).


This eliminates those 2 major possibilities. Cannot think of another. :smiling3:


Laurie
 

flyjoe180

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I use Humbrol enamel paints almost exclusively. Some of the newer tins are very thick and brush on very nicely; others, particularly the tins produced outside of the UK, are very thin and will require many coats. Stir until you cannot stir any longer. Stir the tin frequently during painting or mixing. Avoid dipping your brush into the tin directly as this will cause issues around the tin lip when you put the lid back on. If you are brush painting put the lid back on when not in use, or place the lid into some thinners. This keeps the tin sealed, or the lid clean.


Apply thin layers whether you are airbrushing or brush painting, and slowly build up the colour. I frequently dip the brush in thinners if I am brush painting to moisten the bristles, this helps to keep the spread even. Colours such as white, red, yellow and some other bright shades are very translucent by nature. You just have to be patient. A good base of primer is required for these paints. For bright colours I usually prime using a white, for darker colours the usual grey primer will suffice.


On my Hawk build I have had this very issue with red. The satin signal red colour is quite difficult to apply and build up to a solid colour. The solution was to use flat red over the primer, and once that was dry, apply the signal red over the top.


Good luck.
 
W

Weeman0000

Guest
\ said:
First off, white is always a pain in the bum regardless of type of paint or brand. So you are not alone on that one.
Although not all do it, I recommend a wash in warm soapy water and leave to dry.


Prime. Again not all do it, but if you are having issues, its the next best place to start.


Once primed leave it alone to cure for at least a day or two. It might feel dry, but it needs time to harden.


Paints, any paints need to be totally mixed. When you have done that, mix them some more.


Enamel paints keep almost indefinitely. I have some that at 40 years old and work just fine. They are only really dead if they have dried up in the tinlet, so always wipe the rim before putting the lid on.


If needed thin the paint and paint on the subject. let it dry and cure. If not 100% hardened you risk dragging the previous coat of when you apply the new one....


Also worth mentioning, especially in the warmer months. Sweaty fingerprints and paint dont mix. Either dont touch the surfaces to be painted, or wear a glove. Latex or cotton (watch out for fluff!).


These are my thoughts on it and Everybody has there own preferences so expect others to come with a solution totally different to my ideas.


As a by the bye, Humbrol paints are in the process of bringing production back to the UK after their sales plummeted as fast as the complaints rose. They admitted that it was not the best idea they have had. So Humbrol paints are only going to get better...If only they could bring back their Authentic range...


Ian M
Hey Ian. Yeah i washed them in warm soapy water, let them air dry at the window and wore a glove, it has made an effect altho tbh i think my sweaty fingerprints and general hand oil being washed off had something to do with that :smiling3: I do leave it to cure for a day or two but it has been really warm and where i work i have a rather large window that focuses the sun and just starts cooking everything in the house so gloves are a must atm.


About humbrol, NICE! i do love the cheap tins of enamel paints because sometimes a large tin would only be needed for a small job ect, but if they are going to improve thats good, few iv got are matt and end up gloss with loads of mixing :S anyway yay! :smiling3:

\ said:
If you are going to 'molest' the paint tin... At least you know it comes off easy.
HA! In spain they say molest instead of interfere with, same with some places iv been in america. "No molesty!" haha

\ said:
As said before has another paint colour or another paint manufacturer's paint been tried ?
That will eliminate almost all the problems at least it will reduce the number of reasons for the problem.


This would be my number one if I had problems.


All paints produced are under 99% of circumstances going to perform whether they are Revell Humbrol Vallejo how ever much you love or hate them etc.


There is either a paint manufacturers problem (try another manufacturer's paint) or a problem with the surface the paint is applied to (try another surface other than the present model).


This eliminates those 2 major possibilities. Cannot think of another. :smiling3:


Laurie
Iv only got revell matt and gloss whites and those both have issues with me, i did clean the model and used a glove, it helped when it came to the second coat, but first coat still sucks, dont want to get more white paints if they are the same, ya know?

\ said:
I use Humbrol enamel paints almost exclusively. Some of the newer tins are very thick and brush on very nicely; others, particularly the tins produced outside of the UK, are very thin and will require many coats. Stir until you cannot stir any longer. Stir the tin frequently during painting or mixing. Avoid dipping your brush into the tin directly as this will cause issues around the tin lip when you put the lid back on. If you are brush painting put the lid back on when not in use, or place the lid into some thinners. This keeps the tin sealed, or the lid clean.
Apply thin layers whether you are airbrushing or brush painting, and slowly build up the colour. I frequently dip the brush in thinners if I am brush painting to moisten the bristles, this helps to keep the spread even. Colours such as white, red, yellow and some other bright shades are very translucent by nature. You just have to be patient. A good base of primer is required for these paints. For bright colours I usually prime using a white, for darker colours the usual grey primer will suffice.


On my Hawk build I have had this very issue with red. The satin signal red colour is quite difficult to apply and build up to a solid colour. The solution was to use flat red over the primer, and once that was dry, apply the signal red over the top.


Good luck.
Stir stir and more stirring lol, Yeah a few of them are really thick so i must have gotten some imported watery white. I have at times just used some turps to soften the paint after its on to get any over painted part / brush strokes down and more even, but you really cant turps the white, its already very runny and doesn't seem to want to stick to the surface.


I think ill get some battery powered mixer thing because if it is a consistency problem it should reduce stirring time a lot. I do dunk the brush into the tin but i am careful not to get it around the edges, that being said my matt black is in a disgraceful state :P


What i have seen tho, is that over time the thinning agent in the paint will evaporate causing the paint to get thicker, maybe i should just leave the white open for a while while stirring it every 10minz? Normally with a thicker paint, after i get to the end of the tin its thicker due to being open for a long time i thin it with turps and its great, could do the opposite with the watery white lol. o.0
 
L

Laurie

Guest
Do not know what to advise Jason. Think every one has gone through all the things to do.


If it was me I would do what I always do and do not have any problems. Wet and dry with water the surface.


Wash in soapy water and double rinse to get rid of washing up liquid. Thoroughly dry for enamels.


Prime. Get a new batch of paint and thinners. Ensure each paint coat is dry before the next.


You have covered all options then (I think).


Laurie
 
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Adrian
I saw someone use scotch bright on a car body before they primed it, perhaps you could try this?


Other than that everyone's covered all the other options.


On the subject of washing sprues, never done it in 5 years never had an issue, most kits aren't covered in demoulding gunk any more, Flory was actually asked if he washed any kits and his reply was, unless there is a pool of gunk in the bag like the old Trumpeter kits, no.


Adrian
 
D

dougie

Guest
\ said:
I saw someone use scotch bright on a car body before they primed it, perhaps you could try this?
Other than that everyone's covered all the other options.


On the subject of washing sprues, never done it in 5 years never had an issue, most kits aren't covered in demoulding gunk any more, Flory was actually asked if he washed any kits and his reply was, unless there is a pool of gunk in the bag like the old Trumpeter kits, no.


Adrian
They do this on real cars as well mate on the base coats if not metallic. I'd be happy with some micro mesh maybe 3200 ish but... I'm not a primer expert and maybe you could go down one grade
 
W

Weeman0000

Guest
\ said:
Do not know what to advise Jason. Think every one has gone through all the things to do.
If it was me I would do what I always do and do not have any problems. Wet and dry with water the surface.


Wash in soapy water and double rinse to get rid of washing up liquid. Thoroughly dry for enamels.


Prime. Get a new batch of paint and thinners. Ensure each paint coat is dry before the next.


You have covered all options then (I think).


Laurie
Yeah tried all that im able, im just going to put it down to a watery batch of paint. But it is going on little by little :smiling3:

\ said:
I saw someone use scotch bright on a car body before they primed it, perhaps you could try this?
Other than that everyone's covered all the other options.


On the subject of washing sprues, never done it in 5 years never had an issue, most kits aren't covered in demoulding gunk any more, Flory was actually asked if he washed any kits and his reply was, unless there is a pool of gunk in the bag like the old Trumpeter kits, no.


Adrian
I didn't think they needed washed as well, but done it anyway, doesn't hurt :P


Also... old kits came with a puddle of release agent? free? xD


I think we can call this topic closed, loads of great advice, and sorry for all the questions but i guess its better to get some info before going into something and messing it up.


Tried everything apart from priming, but as some of its already painted priming isnt an option for this build so ill just continue with the 5 or 6 coats of white, i just hope the hull paints are better, if not, the camo will suck, if it needs 2 coats per color it might be 6 coats deep at some parts :S


Anyway ill get pictures up once its done.


Thanks again for all your advice!!


Jason.
 
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