Polux's Hawker Typhoon Cut-Away.

P

Polux

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Yep! :smiling3:

This is my entry for the 1/24 Aircraft SSIG 2015.

Model: Hawker Typhoon Mk.IB

Scale: 1/24

Reference: Airfix A19002

View attachment 95259


History: Introduced into service in 1941, the Hawker Typhoon was designed to be the RAF's new ultimate interceptor fighter. Superseding the Hawker Hurricane, it was hoped that the Typhoon, together with the Spitfire, would be a powerful and effective opponent of the Luftwaffe. However, it was not to be. Initially plagued by mechanical woes from the engine and suffering from a deficit in performance at high altitude, the Typhoon instead found fame as a low level attack aircraft, a role to which it was both well-suited and hugely effective.

Envisaged even before the Hurricane was in RAF service, the Typhoon was built around the huge and incredibly powerful Napier Sabre engine. This engine was both highly impressive and a true feat of engineering, featuring 24 cylinders in a H-block pattern and developing over 2,200 horsepower. But, while it delivered excellent performance, its complexity and lack of reliability added to the Typhoon’s early problems. The rest of the Typhoon’s airframe was a combination of traditional Hawker and more modern construction techniques, featuring a semi-monocoque fuselage with easily removable panels around the engine maintenance. Armament was provided by four 20mm cannons, making the Typhoon very heavily armed for a fighter of that period.

The Typhoon presented a number of issues upon its introduction to squadron service. The tail was prone to separating from the rest of the fuselage during violent manoeuvres, which required strengthening plates to be added. Monoxide was found to be leaking constantly into the cockpit, so oxygen masks were required to be worn by pilots during the entire flight and this problem was never rectified throughout the machine’s service life. But various other aspects of the Typhoon were improved. As it matured from a high level interceptor with failings, to a superb low level fighter-bomber, it went through a number of structural and detail changes. The cockpit canopy changed from a car door type arrangement to a sliding bubble canopy, the number of propeller blades increased from 3 to 4 and the horizontal stabilizer was enlarged by fitting those from the Hawker Tempest. The Typhoon was also upgraded with the capability of carrying either two bombs, one under each wing, or 8 rocket projectiles, 4 under each wing. It was with the rockets that Typhoons really found their niche. By decimating German armour and material in the days both before and after D-Day, the aircraft became famous for its deadly and accurate attacks. Its powerful cannon armament was also ferociously affective for strafing.

Throughout its service life the typhoon remained a difficult beast to fly and despite being unforgiving and at times dangerous, the machine was both loved and respected by its pilots. However, once the war in Europe ended in May 1945 its days were quickly over, all Typhoons were retired and scrapped so that today just one complete survivor remains as a reminder of the contribution this wonderful aircraft made to the Allied war effort and as a memorial to the pilots who mastered its tricky flight characteristics and flew it to such good effect.

a19002_1.jpg
 
P

Polux

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Hawker Typhoon Cut-Away

I propose myself to separate this build on two parts or sides.

First Side.

The first one will be a cut-away side. The major part of the job has been done by Airfix....I just need to recreate, principally, the wings edges and the back tail as well. I’m not a habitual scratch build modeller, so this will be an interesting challenge for me.

I found some useful pictures and photos, but I will need to research more info to reproduce a relative accurate model.

View attachment 95260


View attachment 95261


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Second Side.

The second side will be built as a normal kit. The challenge there is the paintwork.... I commented sometime ago I don’t like the colour scheme on the Typhoon o_O, so I decided to do an absolutely different paintwork process. I will keep the original form of the camouflage scheme, but painted over metallic finished parts.....like transparencies! The real challenge is the product that I will use....

This new product is like an oil colour with a wax base....

View attachment 95262


Not...! I never used it before!! So it will be a new discovering :eek:

As you can deduce, I will paint the entire Typhoon with brushes or sponges :smiling3:

A SSIG, that hope, teaches me a lot of new tips and skills :smiling3:

Cheers

Polux

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Hawker-Typhoon.jpg

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Typhoon.JPG

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P

Polux

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Well...I can’t start the model, but I can play with the colour paints, searching a good future option. :smiling3:

I took an old piece and primed with Vallejo black. Just five minutes later I applied the three different products. These are the results after I has been applied and polished thirty minutes later ONLY!!!

View attachment 95338


Why I go so fast?? The reason is I want to know the “resistance” of the product and the other one is I habitually work with the colour coats not dried....

My surprise is the resistance of the wax one :eek: as the final colour as well.

Tomorrow I will prove the washes :smiling3:

Ps: The Alclad one is the dull aluminium.....not the normal one!

DSC_0637.JPG
 

Ian M

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So you are going to paint it in bare metal look then paint the camouflage over that with transparent paint?

Ian M
 
P

Polux

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This is the first idea Ian. I'm searching to add filters or tinted the metal for a subtle final colour result...O_o

I'm wondering if all you can imagine what I'm looking for?! it's difficult to explain, I supose :smiling3:

Anyway it will be a long long build, many things can change on the way :smiling3:
 
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treyzx10r

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Looking forward to watching you work your magic on this Polux! Nice test spray of the different nmf paints.
 

monica

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This is going to be one very interesting build Polux,and also what your doing with the painting as well, ;)
 

flyjoe180

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Interesting experiment Polux, that AK True Metal really does look like dark aluminium
 
P

Polux

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Hi :smiling3:

I’m still testing with the True Metal and other products (enamels, inks, acrylics,...)

By the moment this is the best result I have obtained. Think I’m on the right way, but I have to perfection it.... :P

View attachment 95462


See the difference between an applied wash/filter over the colour coat (wing) or the mixed final product (plastic sheet).

View attachment 95463


The idea is all the inner chassis parts be painted with acrylics and enamels, and all the main fuselage with this “transparent” colour.

PS: is quite difficult to obtain a good photo result, the test, looks more bright and seems a more tinted aluminium at the eye sight....:oops:

Thanks for looking and the advices.

Polux

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L

Laurie

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I like the experimentation Polux. A brave thing.

Actually if it helps, all from my architectural background, bare aluminuim will go very dark indeed blackish. The Vallejo one looks like what they call anodised aluminuim. An electrolytic process applied to aluminuim.

Laurie
 

monica

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for me the true metal in the 1st set of pic,s looks good,so dose the Vallejo,

but with the second set i like the look of the Vallejo with the wash,:rolleyes:
 
P

Polux

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Thanks Laurie!

Well...these are my notes, by the moment:

True Metal + Enamels washes = it works...but not enough for me...

True Metal + inks = disaster....

True Metal + Acrylics = forget it....

True Metal + oils = works very well, of course, but the dry time is a problem now. And the second negative reason...the oil don't especially like the polish treatment....

True Metal + tinted glasses products = not yet!

True Metal + pigments = not yet!

True Metal + alcohol colours = not yet! (this one could be ok!!)

Still testing ;)
 
P

Polux

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Thanks Moni!

Maybe I'm with you...but I have to find the bright as Vallejo's colour aproximally...and the detail level of the True Metal....on this one you can see much better the rivets and lines ;)
 

monica

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with the oil,wash did you try leaving the paint sit on some cardboard for a couple of hours to pull out the oil,leaving mostly just the pigmented paint,

as that will let it dry quicker,just an idea, ;)
 

monica

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yes i do agree it dose high lite them better, ;)
 
D

dubster72

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Or try using lighter fluid as the thinner Polux - it's what I use if I want quick-drying oil paint ;)
 
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