SBS On How To Paint and Weather Armour Truck Tyres

Steve Jones

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#1
Hi Everyone

For those of you who follow my work you will know I am currently working on Tamiya's Quad Tractor HERE

I changed out the kit tyres for DEF MODEL resin ones. When ever working with resin it is important to use a mask when cutting the items off the sprue and sanding the parts due to the harmful dust it creates

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At this stage you can add damage to your tyres in the form of worn down tread, cut marks to the outer tyre walls etc. I chose to leave these tyres as is. Once cleaned up the wheels are primed with Stynylrez Black primer by Badger. The base coats were then added using Vallejo UK Light Stone for the hubs, Dark Rubber for the tyres and Steel for the back of the hubs.
I do not use masks for the tyres. I simply water down the acrylic paint until it is like ink. Then using a fine brush a paint close to the hub and allow the paint to seep into the grove without having to brush it. Very rarely is there a need to do touch ups afterwards using this technique

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Next the rear of the tyres were given a black oil wash and the front of the hubs were highlighted using a 50:50 mixture of Buff and UK Light Stone on the raised areas. Also I added Tail Light Red for the nut caps

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Using German Cam Black Brown and a sponge I very lightly add some initial chips. It is important to rotate the sponge when doing chips as to avoid uniformity of chip patterns. Then I used a fine brush to do the areas that the sponge was unable to reach. As with all chipping - less is more

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Once fully dry the tyres are covered in Matt Varnish using an airbrush and left for a couple of days to dry fully. Then using Naples Yellow Hue oil I made a dust filter and covered the whole wheel with this. It does not take long to dry and it is then time to start adding various colours, textures and tones as it is important to build up a variety of layers to achieve a fully weathered look

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Next I took Vandyke Brown oil and made a wash with thinners, which was used to do a pin wash around the detailing on the front and back of the tyre. Once dry it was blended in using a soft brush moistened in thinner until I was happy with the look.

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Once fully dried after a few days I started work on the pigments. Firstly I used AK Light Dust and added some to a small amount of water to make a wash like consistency. This was liberally applied all over the tyres ONLY. This was left to dry for a day and then blended in with an old hard brush. Once I was happy with the look I used my fingers to rub off the pigments from the raised areas. DO NOT remove the pigment from the tread recess's as this will be used in the next stage. A before and after shot

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Next I took Vallejo's Light Sienna pigment and made a more sludge like wash which was carefully added to the recess of the tread. As it dries it combines with the Light Dust from before to leave a contrasting effect of mud. Once fully dry do not blend but gently remove any excess from the higher surfaces

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Then I used MIG North Africa Dust and made another sludge like wash and applied this to the lettering and ridges using a fine brush. Now the tyres had three various pigment colours on them. Once dry the North African Dust was blended in using the brush

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With all this pigment flying around it was important to fix it all in place. Firstly though it is important to carefully go round each wheel and check for brush bristles, dust and debris as you do not want this fixed in place with the pigments. I used MIG pigment fixer through an airbrush. This stuff dries really quickly enabling me to move onto the next weathering stages

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Then using Vallejo Light Mud and a fine brush I added mud water marks around the bulge of the tyre.

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Then I applied AK's Engine Oil to the central hub and bolts to achieve that oily look. Here is the before and after shot

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Then I added the tyre valves using 0.5mm styrene rod and painted them Black using acrylic paint

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The final touch was to add AK's Wet Effects. I added this to the tread at the bottom of each tyre and to certain other areas on the tread. Its best to pick out dark pigment areas as the Wet Effect is most effective there.

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papa 695

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#4
Thanks for posting this Steve, will come in very handy when I get back to the Saladin build.
 

Jim R

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#6
Hi Steve
Very effective and realistic. I have said it before about your work but worth repeating. The carefully planned layering of effects creates a real depth to your finishes.
Thanks for the SBS.
Jim
 

Si Benson

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#9
Thanks for sharing your technique, always interesting to see another way of doing things:thumb2:
 

John Race

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#10
Sir.
In view of your expertise in obtaining such realism is it possible that I could send my complete kit to you .
This would enable me to relax.

Regards.
453 .
 
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