Sorry me again, advice on 2 part epoxy putty

[BattleshipBob]

Evening all

Will need to use 2 part epoxy putty ( right name???? )

Any advice on how to use and best too buy. Hopefully one which does not cure too quick. Sorry to be a pain

Will need it on the Hood build

Ta bob

 

[Airborne01]

Dependent on usage and cost - Milliput? Works for me in many ways ...
Steve

 

[stillp]

What will you use it for? Milliput is good, but car body filler is cheaper.
Pete

 

[stona]

For what it's worth, when I resort to epoxy I use the clear 15 minute Araldite, but that may be too quick for you, depending what you are doing with it.

I sometimes apply it as it starts to 'go off' because it is less viscous and more likely to stay where I want it (rather than on odd parts of the model, my shirt, the neighbour's cat, etc.)

For a filler I occasionally use Milliput (fine).

 

[BattleshipBob]

Sorry should have said

To partially fill the bow of Hood, then hopefully drill through it connecting the hawse pipes for the anchor chain to run from the capstans to the anchors

 

[stillp]

Seems like a job for car body filler to me. Whatever you use, check if a big lump of it heats up when curing, if it does there's a risk of distorting the plastic. Maybe Milliput would be safer, I don't think that gets hot but I could be wrong.
Pete

 

[Tim Marlow]

I’d go with milliput Bob. Doesn’t heat up on reaction and can be smoothed with damp tools to minimise clean up.

 

[Tworrs]

I would use Milliput for that Bob.

 

[Ian M]

Milliput as already said.
Sets hard and can be drilled (you can even tap a thread in it!). Can be cleaned and smoothed with wet tools/finger/cotton bud etc.
There are several different ones. I normally go with the white one.

 

[Neil Merryweather]

Milliput as already said.
Sets hard and can be drilled (you can even tap a thread in it!). Can be cleaned and smoothed with wet tools/finger/cotton bud etc.
There are several different ones. I normally go with the white one.

With respect Ian, if you've not used Milliput before I would recommend the regular one, it's easier to get the mix right with the different coloured components. And it's cheaper.
That said, if it needs sanding back after curing , Milliput is MUCH harder than car body filler and could result in accidental damage to the plastic. BUT I do take the point about the heat reaction with car body filler.
Just reading Bob's description again though,sounds like the fill will be totally inside the model so milliput is probably the safest,it will give you about 90 mins working time Bob, and you could even start the hole while it's still workable.
Good luck Bob

 

[Scratchbuilder]

Probably too late Bob, but I use car Stopping filler. It is available from car outlets like Halfords, comes in a tube and lasts for ages.

 

[boatman]

WELL Boyo i use plastic wood filler on my tiger an it comes in a tin or a tube an very good but a bit exspensive about 4 quid for a tube but it will sand down to a nice finish
chrisb

 

[rtfoe]

Well Bob, fillers usually shrink and if it's where you mentioned it's better with two part putty like Milliput or Magic Sculpt. These have a work time of about half an hour to 90 mins. doesn't shrink and is paintable while curing.

Cheers,
Wabble

 

[Jakko]

Contrary to all the other advice above, I will say: Stay away from Milliput — it’s bloody awful crap that’s hard to mix and goes off (when unused) within a few years so it gets even harder to mix. About the only reasonably usable kind they have is the “superfine white” variety, but that has the problem that you’ll be mixing one part white to one part off-white, making it very difficult to tell if you’ve mixed them enough or will end up with eternal chewing gum.

Almost every other brand of two-part epoxy putty aimed at modellers, is better, in my experience. I have a packet of Sylmasta A+B that’s over twenty years old and still works perfectly, as well as Magic Sculp that’s maybe five years younger and is still fine too. Both have the great advantage of being much softer than Milliput, making them much easier to mix.

 

[Neil Merryweather]

Magic Sculp is definitely more forgiving than Milliput, I'd forgotten about that

 

[BattleshipBob]

As always a fantastic respond, many thanks all

I have found a unopened standard miliput, not a clue why I have it lol. Will have a practice first. Never used it.

Really appreciate the advice, time to practice lol

 

[Jakko]

Magic Sculp is definitely more forgiving than Milliput, I'd forgotten about that

I used Magic Sculp on my Churchill AVRE, but must say I like the Sylmasta A+B better. However, I’m not sure that’s still available — the closest I see on their site is called AB rather than A+B, so who knows?

 

[Neil Merryweather]

I used Magic Sculp on my Churchill AVRE, but must say I like the Sylmasta A+B better. However, I’m not sure that’s still available — the closest I see on their site is called AB rather than A+B, so who knows?

I think it is the same stuff

 

[Tim Marlow]

As always a fantastic respond, many thanks all

I have found a unopened standard miliput, not a clue why I have it lol. Will have a practice first. Never used it.

Really appreciate the advice, time to practice lol

Probably bought it for making Zimmerit on Stugs Bob….

 

[Jakko]

I think it is the same stuff

If my supply was running out, I might order some to double-check — but after 20+ years I still have over half my original 500 g left … Maybe I should build a couple of sandbagged tanks someday soon