Special Hobby 1/32 Yak 3

papa 695

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#21
Some great work going on Barry, looking forward to the next installment.
 

BarryW

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#23
Lots more filling and sanding until eventually it was time to attach the poor fitting i.p. cover/gunsight parts to the pit. I was going to have an open canopy but one of the open canopy parts cracked when sanding off the sprue attachment point so I am fitting the closed canopy instead. This is also a very poor fit and I will have some more filling and sanding to do. A fun build this certainly is not...

E5D79155-EC59-422A-978A-669B04452800.jpeg
I am looking forward to finishing this one.
 

tr1ckey66

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#26
This is the test of a real modeller Barry, and I know you're more than up to the task. Does seem to be quite a troublesome build though.
I've got a Special Hobby Tempest in the stash, hope it's a little bit easier than this!
Cheers
Paul
 

BarryW

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#28
I had some real issues with that poor fitting canopy, filling the gaps and getting it smoothed onto the model. I had to re-fit the canopy a few times and in the end had to resort to using cement, not a good idea with canopies. I have some concerns about what it may be like under the masking in case capillery action has drawn cement under the mask and damaged the surface. I did lift a corner or two and did not see any damage but I will only be able to be sure when all the masking is removed.

IMG_2996.jpg

Anyway.....
I decided to fit the u/c legs before painting. These are tricky as the lack of positive fit make it fairly difficult.
IMG_2994.jpg

As you can see from the top picture I glued a piece of sprue to the front to act as a hanger while drying. Its a bit of overkill because MRP dries so fast....

Anyway - I applied MRP Black Surface Primer
IMG_2999.jpg
Overall, not too bad. Some of the areas where I expected to see flaws are fine but those seams are really stubborn. Already I have spent hours of sanding and yet they are still showing through. I will need to apply Mr Dissolved Putty along the seams, sand some more and then see how it is with another primer coat. I really do not know why the seams on this kit are not responding to treatment like others do, every single fuselage seam needs treating along its full length!...
 

Steve O

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#30
I'm sure all will come out great in the end Barry, i like the nice clear instruction sheet.

Steve.
 

dave

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#31
Getting there now, great lesson in how to handle a less than perfect kit.
 
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#32
I had some real issues with that poor fitting canopy, filling the gaps and getting it smoothed onto the model. I had to re-fit the canopy a few times and in the end had to resort to using cement, not a good idea with canopies. I have some concerns about what it may be like under the masking in case capillery action has drawn cement under the mask and damaged the surface. I did lift a corner or two and did not see any damage but I will only be able to be sure when all the masking is removed.

View attachment 294136

Anyway.....
I decided to fit the u/c legs before painting. These are tricky as the lack of positive fit make it fairly difficult.
View attachment 294135

As you can see from the top picture I glued a piece of sprue to the front to act as a hanger while drying. Its a bit of overkill because MRP dries so fast....

Anyway - I applied MRP Black Surface Primer
View attachment 294137
Overall, not too bad. Some of the areas where I expected to see flaws are fine but those seams are really stubborn. Already I have spent hours of sanding and yet they are still showing through. I will need to apply Mr Dissolved Putty along the seams, sand some more and then see how it is with another primer coat. I really do not know why the seams on this kit are not responding to treatment like others do, every single fuselage seam needs treating along its full length!...
Get some speed tape on those seams, just like in the modern world!
 

BarryW

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#33
I have been working the seams.
A2FADF0B-9AD8-4AB9-9897-08687D94BF22.jpeg
Above you can see how the underside fuselage was concave. I filled the middle and sanded it down level.
55B20AE8-0593-4A9C-ACF1-4C9F3F84EA00.jpeg
Above you can see all the areas on top after sanding and get a feel of just how difficult these seams are. Remember these have been filled and sanded a few times before I applied the primer.
C6484D93-7C0D-4CF1-8747-58A66EBF4D60.jpeg
However it is looking up. After respraying primer I went over the areas still in need of treatment and reapplied Mr Dissolved Putty.
 

BarryW

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#34
Finally I got to paint the wheel wells and legs A14 Faded Grey.
992F052F-463D-4575-9C15-5FCDFD43DB88.jpeg
Next up was masking these areas off
15D5DABF-BB7C-4283-9351-7060ADE4A0E8.jpeg
Then I painted the underside AMT7 Grey-Blue.
BC4F7678-6DA6-4711-BBE5-A558C99CD892.jpeg
The MRP Paint simply enables me to easily produce the kind of colour modulation that was more difficult with other paints. Then of course the finish is perfect for washes and decals though most of the markings will be painted using a Montex set.
 

tr1ckey66

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#37
The Yak looks much better now. The worst seems to be over now and hopefully it should be plain sailing to the finish now.
Cheers
Paul
 

yak face

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#38
Looking good now Barry , its been a bit of a trial but youve bettered it now , cheers tony
 

stillp

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#40
That paint finish is superb Barry. I'm going to have to try those MRP paints.

Pete
 
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