Stuck Nozzle

[Stevekir]

The nozzle of my Harding & Steenbeck Cr2 Plus AB was stuck in the aircap when I went to clean it this afternoon after I used it for the first use since about 8 weeks ago. (To be clear, by "aircap" I mean the part that fits over the nozzle and screws into the body of the AB.) The nozzle has always been a quite loose fit in the aircap. I always thoroughly clean the AB after use including using the tiny bottle brush up the spout, usually finishing with the ultrasonic cleaner which I used last time. I had to use tweezers to loosen it. It seemed clean although it had developed a brown colouring over the last 15 months since new.

I also noticed that the needle had become stuck in the body of the AB. This has never happened before. I was able to quite easily tug it out of the back using fingers.

EDIT: I have just remembered that the last time I used it, it was with Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer (solvent = Cellulose Thinner).

Any ideas on how to prevent these two? A little lubrication, and with what? Even deeper cleaning, and how? Keep the nozzle separate until use?

By the way, I once watched a film on how to deal with a stuck needle badly gooed up with dried paint. The user removed the AB handle and banged the end of the needle (the blunt end of course) quite hard on the table. Obviously, the nozzle must be removed first or else it would be shattered by the point.

 

[Laurie]

Steve. Found the best with Vallejo Varnish is to give it a good clean. Stuff up one end and dribble Vallejo Cleaner (cellulose in your case) down the needle tunnel and leave for a while. Then use a brush from one end to the other.

This seems to do the trick. If the needle tunnel and the needle are clean you should not need lubrication.

I renew the seals every year they cost peanuts and pre-empt any problems.

Laurie

 

[Airfix Modeller Freak]

The nozzle of my Harding & Steenbeck Cr2 Plus AB was stuck in the aircap when I went to clean it this afternoon after I used it for the first use since about 8 weeks ago. (To be clear, by "aircap" I mean the part that fits over the nozzle and screws into the body of the AB.) The nozzle has always been a quite loose fit in the aircap. I always thoroughly clean the AB after use including using the tiny bottle brush up the spout, usually finishing with the ultrasonic cleaner which I used last time. I had to use tweezers to loosen it. It seemed clean although it had developed a brown colouring over the last 15 months since new.I also noticed that the needle had become stuck in the body of the AB. This has never happened before. I was able to quite easily tug it out of the back using fingers.

EDIT: I have just remembered that the last time I used it, it was with Tamiya Synthetic Lacquer (solvent = Cellulose Thinner).

Any ideas on how to prevent these two? A little lubrication, and with what? Even deeper cleaning, and how? Keep the nozzle separate until use?

By the way, I once watched a film on how to deal with a stuck needle badly gooed up with dried paint. The user removed the AB handle and banged the end of the needle (the blunt end of course) quite hard on the table. Obviously, the nozzle must be removed first or else it would be shattered by the point.

Ouch! When you said "banged" I cringed.... Until I read removed nozzle. I do not think it would be good for the AB though.... Do you lubricate the nozzle cap? If you do this should not happen.

John

 

[Laurie]

Think the moral here is Steve !

If you use varnish lacquer etc then a thorough clean is absolutely essential as the stuff is lethal and the only way to keep the airbrush mobile.

Left mine once with a usual clean for paint after using the above materials and the one and only time. Dunk it all if possible seconds after use when the materials are nice and mobile.

Since not had one problem in this respect.

Moral. Nasty experiences are the best tutorial you can possibly have when most is gained provided time does not dull that experience.

Laurie

 

[rickoshea52]

I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade and corrosion and insufficient lubrication is one of the biggest causes of faults in my particular specialisation of Landing Gear.

I have an Iwata Eclipse AB and I always fully clean after a session and lubricate all moving parts, needle and threads with the tube of lubricating fluid that came with my AB. My reason for doing a lube is that you never know when your next painting session might be and the last thing you want is to prepare all your paint and equipment only to find that your AB is u/s.

 

[Stevekir]

Ouch! When you said "banged" I cringed.... Until I read removed nozzle. I do not think it would be good for the AB though.... Do you lubricate the nozzle cap? If you do this should not happen.John

When leaving the AB unused for a month or more (well cleaned of course) I will experiment with cooking (vegetable) oil, just a smear on the outside of the nozzle where it slides into the aircap, avoiding any going elsewhere.

 

[stona]

When I used acrylics I used to withdraw the needle from the nozzle if I was leaving the airbrush for a while as I too had 'stuck needle syndrome'. It's not a problem with enamels for some reason.

I lubricate all the threads of all the various screw fit parts and the needle with WD 40 when I assemble the airbrush after cleaning. This seems to do the trick.

I rarely disassemble my airbrushes, if they work I leave well alone. As it happens, I've done my most used one today for the first time in months

Cheers

Steve

 

[Laurie]

Steve if after you have cleaned try pushing with the trigger full on a cupful of Vallejo Cleaner. This will swill some up the needle tunnel and at the nozzle. The cleaner has an lubricant additive which does the job.

Never used cooking oil but I would think you will have to clean the brush before using. I would use a proprietary lubricant specially prepared for the job.

It is always stressed when buying a compressor but one which is oil less.

Laurie

 

[stona]

I've been spraying half a paint cup full of WD 40 through my airbrushes after cleaning, followed by the same of solvent, for years and the only effect it has had is to make the action nice and easy! It has never damaged a paint job.

Cheers

Steve

 

[Laurie]

Well Steve (Kir) hornet's nest again.

Now this surprised me. This is what Iwata recommend.

Periodically

To insure smooth trigger action, lubricate the needle and trigger mechanism regularly. Remove the needle and coat it with a high-quality grease (like Medea Super Lube); then wipe the needle with a soft, clean cloth, leaving on a light coat of grease. Re-insert the needle into the airbrush and re-tighten the needle-chucking nut (#18). Note: DO NOT over-grease the needle packing, since it is possible to transfer the excess grease into the nozzle, causing severe paint flow problems. DO NOT use light machine oil for lubrication. This will cause the needle to stick slightly as it moves though the needle packing.

So there we are Steve (Kir) about 10 ways of looking after your brush. Actually in the end it depends on your brush. Iwata are a pain to dismantle and clean, an absolute pain, but have found my method does the trick with out dismantling.

Harder and Steinbeck child's play so easy. Dismantle every time a thorough deep clean back together without any lubrication in 4 minutes flat.Never had a failure.

Laurie