Dave......Reading what you said has made me feel a lot better, like many I just hate the idea of not being able to do it.
Si............ Worry not mate, you would lick it into shape, it's me, but kind of you to say. More like a dodgy modeler.
Greg.......No mate,,, the truck is dead long live the Tank.
Right good afternoon.
A brief history of the T40
I think I said T70 Earlier, just shows how things get to you. ITS A T 40 S .
The T40 started life as an amphibious light scout tank used by the Russians during WW2. It was armed with one 12.7 mm (0.5 in) DShK machine gun and a 7. 62 machine gun.. It was one of the few tanks that could ford a river without a bridge.
It was primarily intended to equip reconnaissance units. A land-based version of the T-40, the T-40S, was produced, although was later redesignated the
. The T-60 was cheaper, simpler, better-armed, and could fulfill most of the same roles, so T-40 production was halted.
The vehicle served mainly in Barbarossa and in the defence of Moscow, and it was rarely seen after that point, although it was used in Soviet training schools until 1946. A total 44 examples of the type were later fitted with Katyuska rocket launchers, firing 82 mm unguided rockets from a 24-rail launcher. The Katyuska Rocket version would be great to build, but don't think anyone produces it, a scratch build maybe
Engine wise it was powered by the Gaz 202.... 12 hp power engine
Coming into service in 1941 until 1946. with a total of 222 being built, I have read else where that a total of 663 were built , so you can't take every figure to be true . Post June 1941 saw the removal of the propeller and the S added to its description .
It's weight a mere 5.9 tons was no match for the S65 for recovery purposes.
Crewed by two, the commander was quite busy , directing the driver, loading and aiming the 12.7 MM DShK Machine gun and firing the 7.62 machine gun.
The tank was no match for German Armour and many were lost in the Barbarossa Campaign.
A good start was made yesterday with work started on the hull, bits of PE for the fenders were fun rather than a fear.
Where I do need some advice is the position of the wheel supports.In most kits I have built the placement hole has one side rounded to give a correct alignment, here you are just given a square, so slight confusion as to how low they should be.
I've removed them once and put them back in what I think will be roughly the correct position .
You can see what I mean from the drawing unless I just don't read it right.
These 2 section of PE were not bad, I even managed to get them to fir well , underneath the track cover is a PE strip, how many people are going to look underneath there ?
Decided to do the tracks next, all separate, oh what fun. I have a jig that might help.
Not going to rush, but have a good look and a few dry runs.
If anyone can advise on those arms I'd be grateful.
Thanks for looking in, I can always enlighten anyone's bad day with my tales from the bench
Sorry to read that the truck didn't work out John...
The woodwork looked great, maybe a wrecked vehicle in a future dio?
Thanks for the info on the T-40, would be interesting indeed to see one of those with a Katyuska on top.
Seems to be a nice and simple kit, re the suspension arms maybe you can fit them when most of the tank is complete, so you have a better comparison with a photo or the boxart???
Maybe these are of any help:
The Russian light tanks never seemed to be liked, but they made loads almost to the end of the war - I made one of the T-40 successors, the T-80 by MiniArt, a year or so ago
Like most MiniArt models, loads of fiddly, brittle bits - and individual track links as well!
What des the peg on the suspension arm look like? If it’s square there seems to be only one orientation that will look right. If it’s not square, then I’m confused as well....your photo of them protruding below the hull looks correct by the way...
Evening All .
Fernando .... Hi mate, thanks for the comments and those photos , very helpful, looks from the position of those wheels the arms are about right, coupled with Tims comment , I'm pleased for now, as you've said I can always reposition them later . Oh the wreak, have a couple of ideas for it's final place on a dio .!but not this one !
Dave ....... Very nice , no the crew weren't too happy about them, lacking the amour and fire power, plus the commander had so much to do . I'm now comparing Hobby Boss plastic to Mini Art ! Very thin and brittle.
Tim .... Thank you for that , they appeared square, and the opening was square as well ! From that. one position would have been the wrong way, ,( yes nearly did that ); the second too high , the third right, and the fourth too low .
All becomes clear now !
Whilst waiting for some confirmations on the suspension arms I started on the individual tracks . Now the last time I attempted any thing this small was with the little T20 Komsomolets tractor. This was before I had the head set, so this time they appear to be bigger.
Every lnk needs at least 16 passes with a small nail file stick. Anything bigger just won't fit and is too soft . Yes it does seem a lot of passes, but they take so little off and the plastic is so small in section
This time glueing is taking place on the metal sheet, smeered first with a thin coat of vasoline. That way it doesn't stick to the sheet . I managed to do a run of 23 which must fit the bottom run, and started on another length. On the drawing they state you need 86 per track, but the drawing count is 82 , so it's going to be join and see !
I'd like to get them to fit, but if all else fails and I manage to do one the other could be a thrown track .!
good luck! I find sometimes it's easier to make runs of 5 or six links, and allow time for each 'block' to firm up before mating to make longer runs. I haven't yet found any short cut in the idler, or sprockets! I glue the primed links to the sprockets individually - making sure that I don't have both tracks going the same way! The idlers - usually 8 links or so, allowed to stiffen up before bending around the idler. I do use my jig, if possible, bur sometimes, like my Vickers medium, they just don't allow it's use. The straight edge is the only option. The vaseline on a metal sheet sounds messy - try either a piece of glass, or a porcelain bathroom tile - polished & dry before use. The tile is also useful to cut PE on, but can launch small bits into orbit!
Sounds a good tip, I have a tile that I use for decals, so will try that . The thing that did cross my mind with the grease was although it works I've got to get rid of it as some point !
Using the edge of my steel rule to ensure they are flat and in line , the sprockets sound fun ( not ) so will use your method before I'm told the tracks are wrong .
I notice you mentioned Primed links ! Now this is a bit of a concern !
Reporting back later, thanks for the help.
I mentioned primed, because it is my practice to stick the links to the sprocket. It means the links around the sprocket have to be brush painted, but it's easier than trying to glue already painted parts, and retouching. ( Of course the running gear has already got a full basecoat on ). I'm sure that there are other ways to assemble tracks, but after a lot of trial and error, I'm comfortable with my method
Taking Dave's advice on using a tile to build the track on , instead of the steel plate I've soldiered on.
Noticing from the drawing on the next page of distructions they now have a gap in the bottom length to do the final join I carried on and made them longer to fit the top row. Still confused with the no required against the no shown, so might have to add to the top row later.
Now many of the more experienced among you will say that's the way to do the join. Yes is is a good way, but why they show one thing on one page and then on the next, just confuses the likes of me. Before I'm told I should read the whole thing first, yes I know, but I can only cope with one page at the time.
The 2 top rows on the tile with the steel keeping them straight. I use the steel rule edge to press them down after they have been glued. I've used on of the un -required drive sprockets to form the track links on, I didn't do the primer as this all gets a bit much for me working at this size. As Dave will agree they are really small links !
Now as I spend so much time studying the weave of the plastic mat in my cave and the floor in general in my quest to find the latest airborne escapee I took note of Paul E , one of our colonial friends mention of a apron at some point some time ago . Been think of it since then.
At this point I wish to point out to fellow members of the Rabble this does not invite a barrage of insults, I thank you .
As chief cook and the proud owner of one unused apron.
I have asked the Management to convert the said item for urgent use in the cave.
Having stuck the self adhesive part on the front edge Christine kindly stitched the second part to the material. Working well, the only thing is I must remember to remove it when leaving the bench........ or even more time will be spent crawling around. Already this afternoon It has captured several flying track links.
Of course I put it on when sitting .
Sorry Paul, post crossed.
Think at the moment tracks for me are slightly the lesser of two evils !. I f I could have better depth of field me thinks .
Personally Id be better at buildings or sledges !
In this case the mud will hide a lot of mistakes.
apron - I read a tip many years ago about a similar method, and I tried it - it worked a charm - I didn't lose anything - until I jumped up to answer the doorbell - pulled the workbench over and lost almost a complete model! Since then I've decided to let the carpet monster have the occasional snack!