S
Stevekir
Guest
I posted this on another thread and thought it might be useful as a "how to..".
It was made from those strips of straight-grained and knot-free lengths of wood in DIY stores, in several widths and thicknesses, the back being hardboard. There is plenty of capacity for even as many Vallejo bottles as you have Laurie. The big stuff (spray cans etc.) I don't use very often so they are OK in a cupboard, and the tall bottles of airbrush cleaner and thinner live next to the little spraybooth. (This being a modelling forum I thought of a full Build Report but felt that would be over the top!) However:
All the joints were made with Evostick Impact adhesive (not their polyurethane like Araldite). (There are only four screws, for the top brass supports.) I use this for both light carpentry and modelling. It was originally developed years ago to stick laminates on to kitchen surfaces. It has two methods of use.
The original method is where you coat both surfaces, let it touch-dry for ten minutes then bring the surfaces together. I used this method for the rack. The adhesive grips instantly and there is no movement possible (unless the glue is still slightly wet in which case you can move it a little and you need to hold it together for a minute or so). However, you have a more or less cured joint immediately, ready to handle and get on with the next step, no clamps being needed. Imagine having to hold or clamp each shelf for thirty minutes each before moving on to the next one. In modelling I find this method useful when sticking a small part which needs to be adjusted or positioned after removing my hand, for example, the undercarriage of a 1/72 Spitfire (or those fiddly lumps on a Lancaster). It is essential to get them aligned very accurately in two dimensions for them to look right. With Polycement they can move under gravity over the next 20 minutes of drying, and with liquid cement or Superglue, I find there is not enough time to adjust while holding and turning the model several times for sightings in two dimensions.
The second method involves simply coating the part and, possibly using tweezers, putting it in place immediately while still wet to transfer a little glue to the model and then removing the part. After about 5 minutes the glue has stiffened enough for the part to stick without falling off (perhaps in the confined space of an undercarriage). The part can then be moved slightly with a tool and coaxed to point in the correct direction. It sets hard and tough. Great stuff!
It was made from those strips of straight-grained and knot-free lengths of wood in DIY stores, in several widths and thicknesses, the back being hardboard. There is plenty of capacity for even as many Vallejo bottles as you have Laurie. The big stuff (spray cans etc.) I don't use very often so they are OK in a cupboard, and the tall bottles of airbrush cleaner and thinner live next to the little spraybooth. (This being a modelling forum I thought of a full Build Report but felt that would be over the top!) However:
All the joints were made with Evostick Impact adhesive (not their polyurethane like Araldite). (There are only four screws, for the top brass supports.) I use this for both light carpentry and modelling. It was originally developed years ago to stick laminates on to kitchen surfaces. It has two methods of use.
The original method is where you coat both surfaces, let it touch-dry for ten minutes then bring the surfaces together. I used this method for the rack. The adhesive grips instantly and there is no movement possible (unless the glue is still slightly wet in which case you can move it a little and you need to hold it together for a minute or so). However, you have a more or less cured joint immediately, ready to handle and get on with the next step, no clamps being needed. Imagine having to hold or clamp each shelf for thirty minutes each before moving on to the next one. In modelling I find this method useful when sticking a small part which needs to be adjusted or positioned after removing my hand, for example, the undercarriage of a 1/72 Spitfire (or those fiddly lumps on a Lancaster). It is essential to get them aligned very accurately in two dimensions for them to look right. With Polycement they can move under gravity over the next 20 minutes of drying, and with liquid cement or Superglue, I find there is not enough time to adjust while holding and turning the model several times for sightings in two dimensions.
The second method involves simply coating the part and, possibly using tweezers, putting it in place immediately while still wet to transfer a little glue to the model and then removing the part. After about 5 minutes the glue has stiffened enough for the part to stick without falling off (perhaps in the confined space of an undercarriage). The part can then be moved slightly with a tool and coaxed to point in the correct direction. It sets hard and tough. Great stuff!