Vallejo gloss varnish for airbrushing

[Stevekir]

Just checking. I am having some difficulty with putting this through my AB, 0.4 mm nozzle, (it clogs randomly despite ultrasonic cleaning of the AB)) and wonder whether it is suitable for airbrushing:

Vallejo 17ml Gloss Varnish (193) 70.510

There doesn't seem to be any statement, and it doesn't contain the word "Air".

 

[Vaughan]

Steve I tend to find that you need to thin it with airbrush thinner 72.216 at a ratio of almost 50:50, that seems to work for me otherwise it will clog the airbrush.

 

[phalinmegob]

i have to thin it with water to airbrush it

 

[BarryW]

I agree about the thinning, I do it about 25% with Vallejo airbrush thinner, the new formula stuff. I blow it through at a slightly higher pressure too, about 25psi using a .4 needle.

 

[Stevekir]

Right! I will confine my practice runs to 50/50 and also 25% thinning, with Airbrush Thinner, at 25 PSI. If that is reliable, I will do the same with water.

 

[AJay]

Steve, I'm not a fan of this stuff as it never has a shine on my models........I must be doing something wrong.

 

[Stevekir]

Steve, I'm not a fan of this stuff as it never has a shine on my models........I must be doing something wrong.

Well, that's interesting. My experiments indicate that at least three coats, even more, will be needed to get a hard shine My objective is to get good decalling (no slivering) which is my only reason for going for gloss.

== Do you get decal silvering on your "non shiny" models?

== What do you use for a gloss? Pledge Klear? I tried that once and, as I remember, got a good shine, but I have heard that it does not protect a model from handling as well as varnish.

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Steve, I used to use klear with hit and miss results, sometimes it would take a couple of coats to get the shine needed, I used a gloss from the Microscale range with very poor results, so now I use Tamiya gloss spray cans. Normally one coat is all thats needed, once I've applied the decals I add another coat, weather the model then use Tamiya Flat clear to finish with. I've never applied decals to a falt surface as I'm sure this would still show the silvering.

Adrian

 

[Ian M]

Ajay, your just not shaking it long enough. If you arm hasn't fallen off, you are not doing it long enough...

Ian M

 

[Stevekir]

Ajay, your just not shaking it long enough. If you arm hasn't fallen off, you are not doing it long enough...Ian M

But I thought that thorough shaking was needed only for matt varnish, not on gloss. I mixed my Vallejo gloss quite a lot, but not until my arm fell off.

 

[Stevekir]

Steve, I used to use klear with hit and miss results, sometimes it would take a couple of coats to get the shine needed, I used a gloss from the Microscale range with very poor results, so now I use Tamiya gloss spray cans. Normally one coat is all thats needed, once I've applied the decals I add another coat, weather the model then use Tamiya Flat clear to finish with. I've never applied decals to a falt surface as I'm sure this would still show the silvering.Adrian

Here are two Tamiya varnishes:

Tamiya TS-13 Gloss Clear Acrylic Spray Paint - 85013 - £5.39

Tamiya TS-79 Clear Semi Gloss Acrylic Spray Paint - 85079 - £6.29

Is the Gloss Clear what you said you use?

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Here are two Tamiya varnishes:Tamiya TS-13 Gloss Clear Acrylic Spray Paint - 85013 - £5.39

Tamiya TS-79 Clear Semi Gloss Acrylic Spray Paint - 85079 - £6.29

Is the Gloss Clear what you said you use?

TS-13 is ok, I do use the Humbrol Gloss 35 as well, its normally cheaper and its 150ml

TS-80 and TS-79 I use as well

Adrian

 

[Stevekir]

Thanks. I will try TS-13

In the past I have discounted spray cans as not being for serious modelling. At a recent meeting (as a visitor) to the model club at Wimbourne I saw an artic where the cab was painted yellow to an exceptionally glossy and perfect finish. I was surprised to be told that it was painted using a can of car spray paint!

 

[AJay]

Steve, I use Klear floor cleaner (I use a nice, wide brush especially for the application of the Klear) for my decals. It works well but you have to be careful not to get dust underneath the Klear. I always let the model dry underneath a Tupperware box (I prop the box open a little to let in some air to help drying). I usually add two or three layers of Klear before decals.

Ian, I'll remember to shake them more next time

 

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Thanks. I will try TS-13In the past I have discounted spray cans as not being for serious modelling. At a recent meeting (as a visitor) to the model club at Wimbourne I saw an artic where the cab was painted yellow to an exceptionally glossy and perfect finish. I was surprised to be told that it was painted using a can of car spray paint!

I think that was Marks truck, it got 1st place on the day if I recall, Mark and his brother always match car or truck colours using Halfords to get the exact match, I know some will say colours vary dependant on scale but most of the car builders I know do this and I cant knock the results I see at shows Feel free to pop along again this month it should be a good meeting as its our first group build of the year ( Barbarossa themed )

Adrian