Hi Cristian and welcome to the forum!
The reason why people are recommending a smaller and "simpler" kit first is that most of us got into modelling after seeing a kit we'd love to have and none of us managed to build it according to our expectations...
My "first" kit was a Takom King Tiger with full interior - and I even bought a couple of trainer kits to get the skills needed, and I still failed (or I stopped the build) because I wasn't competent enough in the paint department.
We've all done it and it is with this disappointment in mind they're recommending that you perhaps test the methods, products and tools first on another smaller and cheaper kit first so you've got an idea on how to avoid the most common mistakes - or how to solve some of the problems you might face during a build?
A kit that size will surely be a crash course in modelling but complex pieces of photo etched parts isn't recommended for your first build because it involves CA clue and that's a whole chapter itself because it's a pain in the a** if it goes wrong... (You just posted that your kit doesn't have photo etched railings etc so that's one less thing to worry about!
)
Airbrush is the preferred painting method and most of the paints are made for that. You can still brush paint a kit, and many do, but it's harder and requires patience because you have to paint many many thin layers and it has to dry between each layer, but metal paints like Alclad 2 (which is a fantastic product!) has to be sprayed.
Rattle cans (i.e. spray cans) can be used but their nozzles aren't designed for small details but if you mask well it can work but be sure the paint is safe for plastic.
Tamiya has a whole range of spray paint (cans) for this but if they've got the correct colours for your kit I don't know sadly.
I virtually only use
Tamiya extra thin cement for glue. It's basically a solvent (MEK) that bonds the parts together and leaves no glue to be sanded away. It can leave a raised edge of dissolved plastic that needs sanding though.
I'd recommend looking at the
Tamiya normal cement (not the extra thin) to put in your toolbox for this build, but we all have our favourite methods and you will get different recommendations from different people and all are viable methods, just different!
Most models also require some sort of putty to fill certain glue joints and other "gaps" that happens. Some manufacturers have much tighter tolerances than others and
Revell is sadly not one of the better ones with my experience...
Get some basic modelling putty so you can fill and sand any gaps, that's one recommendation I can give you. I use putty on most of my kits whenever there's something I want to improve or fix. It just comes with the hobby and the features of thermoplastics. The bigger the piece, the bigger the warp might be.
Luckily there's a ton of videos on youtube on how to go about building just about every kit out there - and these can certainly be used as guides, but we learn the most from failing and that's why we're recommending a smaller kit to begin with so you can fail - and learn, and then go on to your big kit!
I still make errors when modelling but I'm a lot better in recovery and hiding those failures today and that's the most important thing modelling has taught me
I hope you have a fun build and that you don't run into too many problems, and if you do we're here to help!