AH-64D apache Longbow : 1/48 : Hasegawa

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Laurie

Guest
\ said:
How's the bird coming along
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Not at the moment Dougie. I have had to go on holiday :D


But another couple of weeks after the hols. should see it.

\ said:
Pilots look like extras from doctor who with their clawed left hands and "riddle" seems to like to brag a bit !!!!
Excellent work as usual
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Thanks Steve. Steve are you related to Laurence (Orance) of Arabia :smiling3:


Laurie
 
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Laurie

Guest
The holiday pains has gone away. After the computer station collapsed and rebuilding a new one.


Sitting at it now with metal legs 810mm long waiting for 710mm high I am making progress.


First Hawegawa kit I have attempted. Really surprised one not to good fit. But forgiven as the


detail of the rotors and landing gear is the best I have seen at this scale. Really impressive.


Ans so the progress. Also add that this helicopter is a joy to build with so many facets it really


is 3D stuff with things going on all over the craft. :smiling3: :smiling3: :smiling3: What a happy boy to get back in


harness after the rigours mentioned above.


Laurie


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dougie

Guest
Lovely update, great pics with descriptions. You seem to love that stynlrez
 
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Laurie

Guest
Thanks for your input Dougie :smiling3:


Seems Helicopters are not the in thing :sad:


Yes Stynlrez seems to be very good at least so far The only problem has


been cleaning the airbrush which is not as easy as clean Vallejo. But for


all that it seems a better primer than Vallejo It is much harder and sticks


to the plastic much better. :smiling3:


Laurie
 
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dougie

Guest
I've been using alclad but it's a filler too. Does a great job though but smelly. I wear a mask and paint in the shed so no real issue anyway. Going to see about trying Valley again but it depends on what I'm painting on top. Its so easy to just prime everything at once with a lacquer based primer. Can't decide haha.
 
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Laurie

Guest
\ said:
I've been using alclad but it's a filler too. Does a great job though but smelly. I wear a mask and paint in the shed so no real issue anyway. Going to see about trying Valley again but it depends on what I'm painting on top. Its so easy to just prime everything at once with a lacquer based primer. Can't decide haha.
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I find you cannot use a laquer based filler over Vallejo (OK under) as it softens the paint.


But I have used over Stynlrez My Surfacer 500. Before I had to use Vallejo Putty FIller


over Vallejo paint.


Mr Surfacer which can be wet and dried over Stynlrez with out breaking away or


affecting its surface.


I started with Enamels but felt so sick with the smell I near gave up model making


until I experimented with water based Acrylics. Living in a flat now it is only practical


to use the water based products. I have found, so far, that I can achieve all that I


want with these.


Laurie
 
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Laurie

Guest
\ said:
I do need to try some Mr surfacer filler
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Good idea Dougie I use 500 most of the time the 1000 and 1200 are more primers Nice advantage is that


the filler is about the same hardness as the plastic When sanding you are sanding both plastic and filler at


the same rate giving a seamless joint which as said before sands to a feather without breaking away


As I have mentioned in the pictures I build in layers The filler will drop into a crack leaving a mountain each side


Can give the impression after a couple of coats that the crack still needs filling. Next time I am going to use tape


either side which will save a lot of sanding (PS remove tape immediately after applying to avoid a right mess)


Others use IPA to smooth but for me I have not found success. I use an old stiff paint brush to put the stuff on


cleaning up with IPA.


Right away must see how Hull City are getting on.


Laurie
 
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Dave1973

Guest
Brilliant little shaker! What a great idea! I'm guessing it works well at sanding off the small,bits?
 
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Laurie

Guest
\ said:
Brilliant little shaker! What a great idea! I'm guessing it works well at sanding off the small,bits?
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Only very very small bits Dave. Advantage where as I use wet and dry paper to sand the large


plastic bits it is very difficult to prepare all those weird and small pieces. Just take off that horrible


shine to give a grip for the primer


Figures are a good example Until I found this method with the continual handling while


painting figures the primer wore off.


Laurei
 
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Dave1973

Guest
Sounds perfect. I always have problems with getting paint to adhere, wether I wash it or not!


I'll have to make one of these!
 
flyjoe180

flyjoe180

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More superb work on the Apache there Laurie. Coming along nicely mate.,
 
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Laurie

Guest
\ said:
Sounds perfect. I always have problems with getting paint to adhere, wether I wash it or not!
I'll have to make one of these!
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I use just plastic containers with the clip on tops Got to be a good fit as bird grit all over the place is not fun (unless you have a Budgie).


Also have a cheap "Dentist's" flat bed (about 4" diameter) with vecro on the bed and container. Put it on there for 5 mins "lovely job".


Thanks Ian and Joe for your kind remarks.


Laurie
 
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Laurie

Guest
\ said:
I use just plastic containers with the clip on tops Got to be a good fit as bird grit all over the place is not fun (unless you have a Budgie).
Also have a cheap "Dentist's" flat bed (about 4" diameter) with vecro on the bed and container. Put it on there for 5 mins "lovely job".


Laurie
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Whoops should have said that the Dentist's flat bed is a small vibrating table.


Also that 3 different sized containers.


And count the objects you put in and count them out at the finish just as Brain Hanrahan counted out and in the Shahs.


Laurie
 
geegad

geegad

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great work and like that dentist thingy does it work at getting rid off all the flash
 
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