Another 'glue' question

Waspie

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I have seen folk on here recommending PVA glue. Re fixing clear parts. Am I correct in thinking this is what I would call wood glue! White thick gooey stuff, technical description!!! Apologies!!! :rolling: :smiling5:
I ask because I did try it on the Challenger but found it useless, after 48 hours it still hadn't set.
OR??
Is PVA an acronym for something else?
 

AlanG

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PVA is the glue that you generally see in schools especially the art departments.
 

stillp

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I have seen folk on here recommending PVA glue. Re fixing clear parts. Am I correct in thinking this is what I would call wood glue! White thick gooey stuff, technical description!!! Apologies!!! :rolling: :smiling5:
I ask because I did try it on the Challenger but found it useless, after 48 hours it still hadn't set.
OR??
Is PVA an acronym for something else?
Something wrong with your wood glue I think Doug. I've used Wudcare 5 Minute PVA, as well as Anita's Tacky Glue, which is aimed at younger users and has a really fine spout. What did you use PVA for on the Chally?
Pete
 

Waspie

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Something wrong with your wood glue I think Doug. I've used Wudcare 5 Minute PVA, as well as Anita's Tacky Glue, which is aimed at younger users and has a really fine spout. What did you use PVA for on the Chally?
Pete
Hi Pete, only used it on the tiny front side lights. In hind sight, it was clear plastic to PE so maybe that was the problem!!
 

stillp

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Strange. Put a blob of your PVA on something non-porous and see if it dries. What make PVA is it? I've had trouble with No Nonsense wood glue from Screwfix, but I think it had been frozen.
Pete
 

Waspie

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Strange. Put a blob of your PVA on something non-porous and see if it dries. What make PVA is it? I've had trouble with No Nonsense wood glue from Screwfix, but I think it had been frozen.
Pete
I'll check tomorrow, its in the garage!
 

Jim R

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One thing to remember is that the glue we use to stick plastic models together works by dissolving the plastic surface and when the solvent evaporates the join is 'welded' together. PVA just creates a very thin film which adheres to both surfaces and so joins them. On an absorbent surface, like wood, it soaks into the surface slightly and so forms a very strong bond. On a non absorbent surface, such as plastic, the bond is much weaker.
PVA dries clear. On models, where they will not be handled much, the weaker bond doesn't matter. The advantages are that it dries clear, doesn't fog clear parts and the parts can easily be prized apart without damage. The film of dried glue can be scraped or peeled off.
The whole subject of the glues used in our hobby can be quite involved.
 

rickoshea52

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I mostly use Deluxe materials glue and glaze for clear parts. Occasionally I use clear acrylic varnish. Humbrol do a glue for glazing/clear parts too.
 

Ian M

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I used to use Micro's cristal clear PVA. It had a good grip and dried very clear. duh.
Gorilla grip PVA glue. is also very good, cleans up with water. Grips very well and dries quite clear. Not to be confused with Gorilla glue, which is a PU wood glue which scums up as it cures. Dont use that one.
 

Tim Marlow

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This stuff is very good for clear parts.
A7D29EF6-1C19-4F3C-A8F8-1B2E362CBF57.jpeg
It handles very like PVA, but dries with a much stronger bond. It is also very good for attaching etch parts to plastic. It is obviously PVA based, but of a different formula to normal wood glues, being much thicker in consistently. I never use the nozzle though, I simply unscrew the top, take out some on a cocktail stick, and transfer it to a scrap of cardboard. Much easier to be accurate with application that way.
 

Waspie

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I'll check tomorrow, its in the garage!
OK Pete, finally made it to the garage, (and remembered the PVA).
Here's a pic of the PVA I have. Bought a few years ago for a wood project SWMBO had me do!!

Worked fine with the wood, well, it was used with a joint rather than on its own.

IMG_0949.JPG
 

Waspie

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A big thank you to all that took time to advise and assist. I will be looking at some model specific PVA soon as the Beetle, Kit 3 has now hit the bench.
 

De.Mort

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I used to use Micro's cristal clear PVA. It had a good grip and dried very clear. duh.
Gorilla grip PVA glue. is also very good, cleans up with water. Grips very well and dries quite clear. Not to be confused with Gorilla glue, which is a PU wood glue which scums up as it cures. Dont use that one.

Me peers under bench .. to find .. Gorilla Wood Glue .. Doh !!!

Useful in dioramas thought for sticking styrofoam blocks together .

Windows/ headlights on my land rover and i used normal revill glue but sparingly .But to be fair .. i did add weathering to them .
 
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