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tecdes
Guest
Yes they are very nice as well Barry. You are obviously of a neat and tidy person very similar to me. Good thing about this sort of rack which I had in mind for mine you instantly see the colour.
I also, which may be a help to others, have pasted to card backings the colour brochures of Vallejo Tamiya Revell and Humbrol.
Laurie
I also, which may be a help to others, have pasted to card backings the colour brochures of Vallejo Tamiya Revell and Humbrol.
Laurie
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2013
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- Richard
Made some pictures of my home made rack.
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View attachment 75999
I really like this because I can turn the rack around once in a while so the paint i am not using very much is moved to.
Cheers Richi
View attachment 75998
View attachment 75999
I really like this because I can turn the rack around once in a while so the paint i am not using very much is moved to.
Cheers Richi
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tecdes
Guest
Just made a couple of little racks to sit on the work top.
The main racks are on the wall away form the work top area. I did not want them cluttering that wall area around the work top as I use this for hanging up the tools.
Simple thing 3 bits of wood (B & Q of course, me thinks why do B & Q not stock Vallejo) pinned together.
The idea is when beginning a project I get all the colours I need they then get scattered around resulting in a "hunt the thimble". This way all the paint is to hand and tempers are not frayed.
The Father was a Carpenter & Joiner and he would probably have said "this is not classic joinery work". But it works.
Laurie
View attachment 76016
View attachment 76017
The main racks are on the wall away form the work top area. I did not want them cluttering that wall area around the work top as I use this for hanging up the tools.
Simple thing 3 bits of wood (B & Q of course, me thinks why do B & Q not stock Vallejo) pinned together.
The idea is when beginning a project I get all the colours I need they then get scattered around resulting in a "hunt the thimble". This way all the paint is to hand and tempers are not frayed.
The Father was a Carpenter & Joiner and he would probably have said "this is not classic joinery work". But it works.
Laurie
View attachment 76016
View attachment 76017
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Stevekir
Guest
Those look really neat.\ said:
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Willi262
Guest
I am so disorganized...
I try to call it 'controlled chaos' because it sounds better.
I try to call it 'controlled chaos' because it sounds better.
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Stevekir
Guest
Thanks folks for all the ideas. After some thought, and bearing in mind that I want to store various sizes and shapes of bottles etc. (Vallejo, Xtracrylix, Tamiya, Microsol and-set and some others) I decided to follow Laurie's method of making one out of wood to hang on the wall. Construction has just started, report to follow.
Having failed to find a drawer that fits under my work table (clutter is reduced if many things are out of sight, and also can be found in the same place) I will be making a couple of plywood drawers with a pair of runners, bought from:
http://www.julieshomestore.co.uk/page58.htm
Having failed to find a drawer that fits under my work table (clutter is reduced if many things are out of sight, and also can be found in the same place) I will be making a couple of plywood drawers with a pair of runners, bought from:
http://www.julieshomestore.co.uk/page58.htm
tanktrack
SMF Supporter
Steve I bought nail varnish stands from amazon I bought the 5 tiered ones which hold 56 bottles of Vallejo bottles or 35 bottles of wash (large) for £11 each they are acrylic
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View attachment 76051
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Stevekir
Guest
So here is my masterpiece:
View attachment 76374
It was made from those strips of straight-grained and knot-free lengths of wood in DIY stores, in several widths and thicknesses, the back being hardboard. There is plenty of capacity for even as many Vallejo bottles as you have Laurie. The big stuff (spray cans etc.) I don't use very often so they are OK in a cupboard, and the tall bottles of airbrush cleaner and thinner live next to the little spraybooth. (This being a modelling forum I thought of a full Build Report but felt that would be over the top!) However:
All the joints were made with Evostick Impact adhesive (not their polyurethane like Araldite). (There are only four screws, for the top brass supports.) I use this for both light carpentry and modelling. It was originally developed years ago to stick laminates on to kitchen surfaces. It has two methods of use.
The original method is where you coat both surfaces, let it touch-dry for ten minutes then bring the surfaces together. I used this method for the rack. The adhesive grips instantly and there is no movement possible (unless the glue is still slightly wet in which case you can move it a little and you need to hold it together for a minute or so). However, you have a more or less cured joint immediately, ready to handle and get on with the next step, no clamps being needed. Imagine having to hold or clamp each shelf for thirty minutes each before moving on to the next one. In modelling I find this method useful when sticking a small part which needs to be adjusted or positioned after removing my hand, for example, the undercarriage of a 1/72 Spitfire (or those fiddly lumps on a Lancaster). It is essential to get them aligned very accurately in two dimensions for them to look right. With Polycement they can move under gravity over the next 20 minutes of drying, and with liquid cement or Superglue, I find there is not enough time to adjust while holding and turning the model several times for sightings in two dimensions.
The second method involves simply coating the part and, possibly using tweezers, putting it in place immediately while still wet to transfer a little glue to the model and then removing the part. After about 5 minutes the glue has stiffened enough for the part to stick without falling off (perhaps in the confined space of an undercarriage). The part can then be moved slightly with a tool and coaxed to point in the correct direction. It sets hard and tough. Great stuff!
View attachment 76374
It was made from those strips of straight-grained and knot-free lengths of wood in DIY stores, in several widths and thicknesses, the back being hardboard. There is plenty of capacity for even as many Vallejo bottles as you have Laurie. The big stuff (spray cans etc.) I don't use very often so they are OK in a cupboard, and the tall bottles of airbrush cleaner and thinner live next to the little spraybooth. (This being a modelling forum I thought of a full Build Report but felt that would be over the top!) However:
All the joints were made with Evostick Impact adhesive (not their polyurethane like Araldite). (There are only four screws, for the top brass supports.) I use this for both light carpentry and modelling. It was originally developed years ago to stick laminates on to kitchen surfaces. It has two methods of use.
The original method is where you coat both surfaces, let it touch-dry for ten minutes then bring the surfaces together. I used this method for the rack. The adhesive grips instantly and there is no movement possible (unless the glue is still slightly wet in which case you can move it a little and you need to hold it together for a minute or so). However, you have a more or less cured joint immediately, ready to handle and get on with the next step, no clamps being needed. Imagine having to hold or clamp each shelf for thirty minutes each before moving on to the next one. In modelling I find this method useful when sticking a small part which needs to be adjusted or positioned after removing my hand, for example, the undercarriage of a 1/72 Spitfire (or those fiddly lumps on a Lancaster). It is essential to get them aligned very accurately in two dimensions for them to look right. With Polycement they can move under gravity over the next 20 minutes of drying, and with liquid cement or Superglue, I find there is not enough time to adjust while holding and turning the model several times for sightings in two dimensions.
The second method involves simply coating the part and, possibly using tweezers, putting it in place immediately while still wet to transfer a little glue to the model and then removing the part. After about 5 minutes the glue has stiffened enough for the part to stick without falling off (perhaps in the confined space of an undercarriage). The part can then be moved slightly with a tool and coaxed to point in the correct direction. It sets hard and tough. Great stuff!
P
phalinmegob
Guest
i made a rack about a year or so ago,this filled up pretty quick and about six months ago i ripped it down and built a new one.i purcheased a few more tamiya colours yesterday(30) and now i need to build another rack.i hate not having a colour i need so i usually end up buying one of every colour in the range,i started using revell as that was what my model shop sold so i bought them all over the course of a few months, then i discovered tamiya is great for airbrushing(only have about 15 more to get), the racks are taking over my room. i still have not dared to try vallejo paint.
A
Andy Mac
Guest
Nice racks gents, you've given me some ideas for mine that will (hopefully) be made in the next week or two.
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Stevekir
Guest
I would like to see a photo, please. (No pressure!)\ said:
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Andy Mac
Guest
Lol. no problem Steve, the photography is the easy bit.\ said:
I've spent the last 3 months acquiring new tools and paints, built up a bit of a mini stash of kits, but still haven't started, painted, or glued anything in 33 years!
I've been slowly re-arranging the dining room so I can have a workbench against the wall, I do it a bit at a time because of being disabled. hopefully within a week or so I should have a bit of worktop screwed to the wall and then I'll be away...
At the moment I just look through SMF everyday to gain knowledge and tips on the modelling, so hopefully when I start I can apply some of you guy's experience to forward my hobby.
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tecdes
Guest
Surely not Steve ! But come on Steve it looks a bit sparse. Get on the "Shop" and get them in. :D\ said:
Laurie
O
omi1966
Guest
Looks good sir, but have you been collecting birds eggs in you spare time, second shelf from the bottom?
Martin.
Martin.
it is nice Steve, well made as i need to move all off mine from plastic boxes just take up too much room,
and i do like Barry,s i think i will try to copy that one , but most off you have good ideas
and i do like Barry,s i think i will try to copy that one , but most off you have good ideas
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Andy Mac
Guest
I've just seen these on ebay...
Both £12.95 inc P&P from the UK
40 Vallejo Bottles
or 30 Tamiya/Citadel Bottles
They look quite reasonable for the money, the only downside (I think) is that they take up desk space as opposed to being wall mounted, actually, I can't see why they can't be wall mounted...
Both £12.95 inc P&P from the UK
40 Vallejo Bottles
or 30 Tamiya/Citadel Bottles
They look quite reasonable for the money, the only downside (I think) is that they take up desk space as opposed to being wall mounted, actually, I can't see why they can't be wall mounted...
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