Sunk after the Battle of Midway - June 6th 1942 by Submarine I-168
Still in sealed bags, although the aircraft have been added to....................
Sprue shots etc will be posted shortly
Dave
Dave Ward's Tamiya 1/700 CV-5 USS Yorktown
- Thread starter Dave Ward
- Start date
Sunk after the Battle of Midway - June 6th 1942 by Submarine I-168
Still in sealed bags, although the aircraft have been added to....................
Sprue shots etc will be posted shortly
Dave
Nice choice Dave,
I'm looking forward to seeing this,a beast of a ship with an incredible influence on the outcome of the war in the Pacific,and a story of resilience
I'm looking forward to seeing this,a beast of a ship with an incredible influence on the outcome of the war in the Pacific,and a story of resilience
I realised, when I started taking photos, the instructions are missing! - no matter, I've downloaded them from Scalemates.............
The light grey aircraft are from a Trumpeter pack.
According to my info, the Yorktown had 27 F4F Wildcats, 36 SBD Dauntless & 18 TBD Devastators
I should be able to get a respectable number of those on the deck!
A few detail shots
Empty 20mm gun mounts?
Ah - explained!
A nice colour profile - pretty much in 1/700.
The parts look clean & flash free. One thing I'm not looking forward to is putting all those star decals on!
The Yorktown had little modification in WWII - 20mm guns being added. She was the second US Navy carrier loss, the USS Lexington being sunk a month earlier at the Battle of the Coral Sea. It left only the Enterprise & Hornet the only operational US Navy carriers in the Pacific, the Saratoga being under repair after being torpedoed, and the Wasp & Ranger in the Atlantic
Dave
The light grey aircraft are from a Trumpeter pack.
According to my info, the Yorktown had 27 F4F Wildcats, 36 SBD Dauntless & 18 TBD Devastators
I should be able to get a respectable number of those on the deck!
A few detail shots
Empty 20mm gun mounts?
Ah - explained!
A nice colour profile - pretty much in 1/700.
The parts look clean & flash free. One thing I'm not looking forward to is putting all those star decals on!
The Yorktown had little modification in WWII - 20mm guns being added. She was the second US Navy carrier loss, the USS Lexington being sunk a month earlier at the Battle of the Coral Sea. It left only the Enterprise & Hornet the only operational US Navy carriers in the Pacific, the Saratoga being under repair after being torpedoed, and the Wasp & Ranger in the Atlantic
Dave
Those teeny weeny little planes look pretty good actually
Looks a good kit Dave. It’ll give you a break from your 3D print stuff as well…..
Yes, I'm having a few print-free days ( at least that's the idea........ )
Dave
Geoffers
SMF Supporter
Nice choice Dave, look forward to following your build 
Geoff.
Geoff.
Looking forward to this, I may do Hornet once I've finished the Hellcat.
Bank Holiday - absolutely still here, not a sound - no cars moving - rather eerie!
OK preparation - I've got a piece of pre-cut MDF for the base, I'll seal this with a couple of coats of diluted PVA.
Normally I'd use DAS air-drying clay for the sea, but I'm going to try this stuff
Never used this, or the foam effect from Vallejo, so it'll be a new experience....................
Dave
OK preparation - I've got a piece of pre-cut MDF for the base, I'll seal this with a couple of coats of diluted PVA.
Normally I'd use DAS air-drying clay for the sea, but I'm going to try this stuff
Never used this, or the foam effect from Vallejo, so it'll be a new experience....................
Dave
boatman
SMF Supporter
HI Dave yes i'll be followin along to see how you get on as i havnt yet fitted my small tiger into a sea base so it will be new info for me
chrisb
A coat of diluted PVA was applied to the MDF & allowed to dry.
I cut a sheet of 0.25mm plastic card, slightly undersized & glued it to the the underside of the carrier base plate - this raises the plate just above the MDF & will give a tidier edge between sea and ship.
The base plate is then CA'd to the MDF -at an angle, to give a bit of variation.
As I'm not sure how opaque the MiG Acrylic Sea is, I painted the base blue ( actually US Intermediate Blue ). I'll let this really dry overnight, before trying the new sea material. Not at all sure how this is going to work out. I did watch a YouTube video of this being used.........................
Looks like it may take a while to dry..............while it's doing that I'll cracking on with the hull
Dave
I cut a sheet of 0.25mm plastic card, slightly undersized & glued it to the the underside of the carrier base plate - this raises the plate just above the MDF & will give a tidier edge between sea and ship.
The base plate is then CA'd to the MDF -at an angle, to give a bit of variation.
As I'm not sure how opaque the MiG Acrylic Sea is, I painted the base blue ( actually US Intermediate Blue ). I'll let this really dry overnight, before trying the new sea material. Not at all sure how this is going to work out. I did watch a YouTube video of this being used.........................
Dave
Jim R
SMF Supporter
That's a great kit. As Tim said it will be a change from your 3D work. I built this many moons ago and it makes a nice model.
The base: The MiG Water has the consistency of Greek Yoghurt! It's a bit thick to apply by brush, so I used a wooden glue stirrer. 
I applied it in a thin layer, as I reckon that will dry quicker. I suspect the stuff will settle a bit, so I'll probably have to revisit the bow wave,s to sharpen them up. I'm leaving this to dry in a cool place - I'll have a look tomorrow, but it'll probably take at leat two days to really set. It should darken & turn slightly translucent - I'll have to wait & see.
I'll turn to the hull whilst all the drying excitement is going on!
Dave
I applied it in a thin layer, as I reckon that will dry quicker. I suspect the stuff will settle a bit, so I'll probably have to revisit the bow wave,s to sharpen them up. I'm leaving this to dry in a cool place - I'll have a look tomorrow, but it'll probably take at leat two days to really set. It should darken & turn slightly translucent - I'll have to wait & see.
I'll turn to the hull whilst all the drying excitement is going on!
Dave
After an hour or so.................
Up to the hangar deck..................
For painting, I will use this set:
The Tamiya paint guide gives the Tamiya names & numbers. For something a bit more authentic - this is the source I used https://www.shipcamouflage.com/measure_12.htm
The Yorktown carried Measure 12 at her loss................ Sea Blue 5-S to the hangar deck, above that Ocean Gray 5-0. All horizontal surfaces, Deck Blue 20-B.
The site https://www.shipcamouflage.com/warship_camouflage.htm is great for al USN warships - somewhere in there are lists of ships, what measures they carried & on what date - only USN sadly
Dave
Up to the hangar deck..................
For painting, I will use this set:
The Tamiya paint guide gives the Tamiya names & numbers. For something a bit more authentic - this is the source I used https://www.shipcamouflage.com/measure_12.htm
The Yorktown carried Measure 12 at her loss................ Sea Blue 5-S to the hangar deck, above that Ocean Gray 5-0. All horizontal surfaces, Deck Blue 20-B.
The site https://www.shipcamouflage.com/warship_camouflage.htm is great for al USN warships - somewhere in there are lists of ships, what measures they carried & on what date - only USN sadly
Dave
Some nice work so far Dave.
Hmm - a days' drying reveals an error! The base colour I put on the MDF was too light - it should have been dark blue or dark grey. The result is literally patchy.....................
All it means is that I'll have to apply more of the Acrylic water to cover the light patches, another day or so drying..................
Dave
All it means is that I'll have to apply more of the Acrylic water to cover the light patches, another day or so drying..................
Dave
Painting stage - at least for the hull & flightdeck all primed light grey ( AK primer ) & the base colours sprayed
Normally, I'd spray dark over light, but the masking line on the hull favours the other way.
I've added another layer of water to the base & it's now drying - I hope I don't have to revisit it a third time. I've used about 1/4 of the jar - at just under £10 a pot that's not very economical https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/250ml-deep-oceans-acrylic-water-ammo-mig-2200-p10127/- I reckon DAS clay is easier & cheaper ( it's the one I'm most familiar with ). I'll have to reserve the final judgement until all is finished..............
Dave
Normally, I'd spray dark over light, but the masking line on the hull favours the other way.
I've added another layer of water to the base & it's now drying - I hope I don't have to revisit it a third time. I've used about 1/4 of the jar - at just under £10 a pot that's not very economical https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/250ml-deep-oceans-acrylic-water-ammo-mig-2200-p10127/- I reckon DAS clay is easier & cheaper ( it's the one I'm most familiar with ). I'll have to reserve the final judgement until all is finished..............
Dave
A really miserable day, thundery downpours - no better excuse to stay indoors.
The Yorktown is progressing. The flightdeck has been added to the hull, after painting.........
The base has been part finished, I'll add the white foam after gluing the carrier. I can't say I'm impressed with the Mig Water acrylic - it's easy to apply, but you can't form waves like you can with clay. I still have most of a pot left, so now I know its' limitations, I'll have a go with another model - maybe I'll change my mind!
Dave
Dave
The Yorktown is progressing. The flightdeck has been added to the hull, after painting.........
The base has been part finished, I'll add the white foam after gluing the carrier. I can't say I'm impressed with the Mig Water acrylic - it's easy to apply, but you can't form waves like you can with clay. I still have most of a pot left, so now I know its' limitations, I'll have a go with another model - maybe I'll change my mind!
Dave
Dave
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Neil Merryweather
SMF Supporter
would it work poured over modelled clay waves?
No reason why it shouldn't, but you'd have to model the waves & then undercoat them a dark colour, so using the acrylic water seems a bit of overkill!
Dave