Has anybody seen my suitecase

rtfoe

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#21
Hi Alun...good to have you follow this old build.

Jim, thanks. Yes, the one that I worked with sanding down to thin it, had a rub down with rubbing compound and then polished with Tamiya plastic polish and then dipped into Future. Polishing wasn't necessary for the other clear parts and only dipped after making sure they were dust free. As for the tissue masking...the engine as you see was molded to the cowling therefore had a shallow depth which a sponge could not take hold. Soaking the tissue, I could with a sharp tweezer, tease and stuff it into the shallow nooks just like paper mache. When it's semi dry I airbrush and then remove later after soaking it with water again for easy removal.

Cheers,
Richard
 

rtfoe

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#22
Since the bomb bay doors were going to be left open I decided to add some strip for the framework and painted them roughly lighter.

440936.jpg

This time I used tape to mask all openings prior to pre-shading using the Nato black that I sprayed the underside and all attachments that were in black.

442647.jpg

The propeller tips were coated in white before the yellow was painted on then masked and black layered to the rest of the propeller.

442648.jpg

The underbelly and wings were masked. The wavy demarcation between the black and camo along the fuselage was drawn on the masking tape and cut before applying.

443250.jpg

The remainder Nato black paint was diluted to nearly translucent to airbrush the pre-shade. Propeller hub tips were prepared as well with the same paint

443251.jpg

Cheers,
Richard
 
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#25
Richard,
It's good to see one of the lesser know bombers being built and as usual you are doing a great job of it.
 

rtfoe

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#26
Thanks Scottie, it is one of the unsusual aircraft of its time.

Cheers,
Richard
 

Dave S4

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#27
Interesting progress.
One day, I will sit down with someone who knows how to pre-shade and solve that little mystery.
 

rtfoe

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#28
Hi, the first layer of colour goes on with earth brown. The pre-shadow is quite strong showing through the layer of paint.

443413.jpg

After masking the clear parts I sprayed interior green and then primer over that to create an opaque frame solid enough so light doesn't pass through it when seen against a bright background.

444379.jpg 444611.jpg

Green goes on next. I used blu-tac for the masking...

444612.jpg 444613.jpg

After a layer of varnish I removed the masking and used a toothe pick to clean any paint residue at the edges of the frame.

444886.jpg

Cheers,
Richard
 

rtfoe

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#29
Interesting progress.
One day, I will sit down with someone who knows how to pre-shade and solve that little mystery.
Hi Dave, pre-shading as opposed to post shading gives you better control of panelling shades. It lets the over lying paint to blend with the shade and if you want it more subtle just coat with another layer. Some prefer to pre-shade with large splashes to demark each panel.

Cheers,
Richard
 
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#31
Hi Richard
Thanks for the information on masking with the wet tissue - noted in my 'Little book of Tips' :thumb2: Also painting the prop tip white before the yellow - yellow is horrible to paint.
Great progress and as always very neat and well done.
Jim
 
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#33
Hi Richard
Thanks for the information on masking with the wet tissue - noted in my 'Little book of Tips' :thumb2: Also painting the prop tip white before the yellow - yellow is horrible to paint.
Great progress and as always very neat and well done.
Jim
Ha! Yes, yellow is probably THE worst colour to apply with a brush.
Multiple coats...
 
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#34
Hi Richard
Thanks for the information on masking with the wet tissue - noted in my 'Little book of Tips' :thumb2: Also painting the prop tip white before the yellow - yellow is horrible to paint.
Great progress and as always very neat and well done.
Jim
You're welcome Jim.

Thanks Dave W.

Ha! Yes, yellow is probably THE worst colour to apply with a brush.
Multiple coats...
Yes Dave S, all it needs is a neutral or white base. The primer I use is Mr Surfacer.

On to the build...Once the Future varnish cured I applied the decals...

444888.jpg 444889.jpg

Decals were old so quite a lot of decal juice used, also I did not apply enough varnish so the surface was a bit rough. This normally happens when using Humbrol enamels where there is build up of dried paint.

445906.jpg 445907.jpg

After this layers of varnish and polishing can only remove the rough surface but from a safe distance it looks ok. Purists would shudder at such workmanship.:tongue-out3:

445908.jpg

Cheers,
Richard
 
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#37
Some great work on display here Richard. You’ve inspired me to start scratch building interior detail on my 1/48 Hampden. I will have to start a build blog.
 
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#38
Thanks Dave S.

Wouter, you too. It took a while before I was convinced to do it.

Dave W, at 1/48 it would be a crime not to do an interior. :smiling2: Looking forward to it.

The Hampden is practically done... just showing the bomb bay and the snug fit of the bombs...I think the real bomb bay doors didn;t have those thick attachment strips in the way.

445909.jpg

The fuselage was so narrow that I think there was a sequence of who goes in first. Botched up the landing lights, glue has fogged up the insides.

445910.jpg 445911.jpg Overall quite a nice kit and was happy to have done it. If I had another I would do a Coastal Command scheme.

Cheers,
Richard
 
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