help with air Compresser

[tecdes]

Thanks Monica. English Women no no no not like that :eek: . Actually I thought you were an Aussie :oops:!

Seals Moni. If the airbrush is a quality one the seals will be able to withstand most if not all the stuff model people throw at them. With a cheaper brush the seals may not be as good.

All the seals lose a bit of their elasticity. But I have had two airbrushes now in 4 years and have replaced a couple of seals only. You will soon know as the gauge on the compressor shhould show the same pressure when you leave it to when the next time you use it. I left mine about 14 days over Christmas & the needle did not budge

Hose connections can be a source of trouble in my experience. I use a non setting plumbers jointer comes in a tube. Put a bit of this on the thread and it will give a good seal. he thin plastic tape stuff I have relegated to the bin. After you have connected up mix two thirds water with one third washing up liquid. Paint the joints with this mixture and any leak (charge up the system obviously so it is under pressure with the compressor off if it has a tank, compressor on if it does not have a tank) will show it self with bubbles which blow up larger. Not the little bubbles which the mixture makes it self. Hey presto you are in business. SOme may say you should leave the system released of pressure but it has not harmed my equipment leaving under pressure.

May have been mentioned before. Drain every now and then the pressure tank as water accumulates some times.

Laurie

 

[monica]

hi Laurie,

maybe having that Scottish blood is the one that dose it :rolleyes:

i live in Aust, but was born and lived in the uk until i was 15 yrs old them moved hear for some reason , some think to

do with my father being in the service,

As you said before you get what you pay for so with a cheap brush the seals will not be as good as say your iwata brush,

i have seen that trick with the soapy water before ,was used to see if there was a gas leek in the pipes,

and for the hole connections i was going to get them fixed with the quick release ones , once i find some one to do it right

and get then to use the plumbers joint stuff you said ,

thank you for all the good help and advice so nice off you to help

 

[monica]

final arrived today my shinny compressor, and it did come with an airbrush with a .3 and .2 needle

plus one in it which i have no cue on ??? :oops:

but the next thing is what paint to get and then how to mix and thin as needed ?

as im cueless on it, at 1st will use for undercoats and over all color of ?

and lucky for me with a quick release for airbrush from hose

as this will all be a leaning experience ,

and after i get used to it then i will have save to get the nice iwata one that Laurie has recommended

so any help would be great plz guys

what brands are the better ones to use

cheers

Moni

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[Stevekir]

final arrived today my shinny compressor, and it did come with an airbrush with a .3 and .2 needleplus one in it which i have no cue on ??? :oops:

but the next thing is what paint to get and then how to mix and thin as needed ?

as im cueless on it, at 1st will use for undercoats and over all color of ?

and lucky for me with a quick release for airbrush from hose

as this will all be a leaning experience ,

and after i get used to it then i will have save to get the nice iwata one that Laurie has recommended

so any help would be great plz guys

what brands are the better ones to use

cheers

Moni

I suggest that you start with the 0.3 needle and nozzle size (each needle needs its own nozzle.) A bottle of Vallejo Model Air (not Model Colour 'cos that is not for airbrushing). Set the pressure on the compressor (the black knob at one end) to about 20 PSI. Do that while pressing the trigger on the airbrush to get an accurate reading. Connect the airbrush to the compressor with the hose. Put some paint in the cup. Model air is designed to work without thinning, but you could try about 5 % thinner. Use Vallejo Airbrush Thinner. If you are using thinner, put it in the cup first, then the paint. Use a small brush to mix the two together in the cup.

Hold the nozzle about 6 to 8 inches away from some plastic, press the trigger down (that will let air only through), then pull the trigger back. Paint will now spray. (This assumes that you have a double action brush. If single action, just pull the trigger back.) Move the airbrush left and right, starting the move in fresh air and ending in fresh air (that is to get an even deposit all the way through with a constant speed.) You want to and up with a noticeable coat of paint but not wet.

Practice, Practice, Practice. Don't worry if things don't go well. It takes practice. Vary the air pressure a bit, the amount of the spray, the distance between the nozzle and the part. I found that the amount of thinning, (or none) made no difference. I found that the correct technique seemed to come eventually, by some magic. To practice on, use some smooth (shiny) plastic bottles. Wash off the paint with water and a scrubbing brush to try again.

Clean the airbrush by removing the nozzle and any other nozzle parts by putting into Airbrush Cleaner for 5 to 10 minutes. Shake to loosen paint. Remove the needle carefully (my maker days to pull it out from the back). Wipe it with a cleaner-soaked paper towel. Use one of those tiny bottle brushes sold for airbrushes (not the metal bristle ones) soaked in cleaner to clean the passage between the nozzle and just past the where the passage enters the main body of the airbrush. Do that three times in all, drying the tiny brush each time to to remove painty cleaner. Watch out for hairs at all times. Blow through the nozzle. Reassemble, being carefull when inserting the needle last in the airbrush, it is very delicate.

DONT'T DROP any of the parts on to the Carpet Monster, which will devour small bits.

Switch off the compressor and open the drain on the bottom of the tank to let out any condensed water (rust problem).

Don't be discouraged if things go wrong, or a blockage occurs (requring cleaning).

Good luck. Come back here with problems.

 

[tecdes]

Great piece by Steve.

What you will find is a diversity among all those that use an airbrush.

As Steve has said vary the compressor pressure. I after reading Steve (Stona) slant on things airbrush at just below 30 psi (he stated 35psi but I do believe this is with enamels). A lot depends on the airbrush, paint and temperature. One thing do not adjust pressure and thinning paint in one go experiment on a solid basis.

Cleaning. I started with Harder and Steinback and always dismantled and cleaned every session. They are darned easy. I was adamant that was the way for any brush. Since having an Iwata it is more fiddly to dismantle. So at the end of a session I spray through trigger fully back with 3 or four cups of water. Remove dried on paint in the cup with a most cotton bud amking sure you get it all before it disappears down the hole. Test on the hand to see if there are any paint traces on the last squirt through. When clean which ever way you do it fill the bowl with cleaner (best I have found for Vallejo Acrylics is Vallejo Acrylics Cleaner strange that)and squirt through. In the end it depends on you brush type construction.

Blockages. I try with a cotton bud laden with cleaner and with the trigger back, a bit, and dab the end of the nozzle. There is a good chance you will clear it. When carrying out this operation it is always best, unless you are the idiotic adventurous type, to point the nozzle away form the eyes. Moni do not worry on this one it only occurs once.

Great advice from Steve and I reinforce him on this. That is the practice thing. Any empty plastic water bottle.

Does the Airbrush have a name on it. By the way with a .3 nozzle needle I would tend to thin (acrylics) Vallejo Model Air 20%. Humbrol & Revell much more as they are thicker. A .35 or .4 seem to be the optimum on average amongst those on this forum. But Barry has no problem with a .2 nozzle I have many blockages all with the same make of brush so work that one out.

Laurie

 

[The Migrant]

The needle is the most susceptible to damage, it's extremely fine at the point and the slightest contact with anything hard will bend it, so it's worth having a spare at all times. The Iwata nozzle is also prone to damage if you over-tighten it (I speak from experience) and they are very expensive to replace, so just take extra care when tightening it. I've maybe replaced two seals in about 10 years of use so that shouldn't be a worry.

I strip and clean the airbrush the airbrush thoroughly after a major spraying session, but usually just spray lacquer thinners through it if I'm only changing colors. Only exceptions would be when spraying white or yellow, in which case I'll again strip/clean properly before spraying.

 

[monica]

hello , Steve , Laurie, Mike,

thank you all very much for your help, and will follow ,along these guild lines,

it must be fitted with the .25 needle, but there is no name on it that i can see any were ,

sorry i did not say it is a dual action,

As you all do tend to lean towards the Vallejo air will try that 1st , as if it needs less thinning ,

as im rusty on the side off things ,as i just mix by adding till i think it looks right not by % ,

like 3 dips off gray to 1 off black, if you get what i mean, so will need to work that one out,

and all my under coating has been from an air can,

but as you do know you just wont to kick the pig right off , but better not to rush it , will get some

paint and tinner and cleaner in the next couple off days when im no buzy to give her a try

thanks again all great help

cheers

Moni

 

[Stevekir]

Monica: On thinning, the way many people see that their paint (I use acrylics only) is for them to be the consistency of milk as a it runs down the inside of the cup. If you want to be precise, and if you use Vallejo Model Air paint which has a nozzle, you can count the drops of paint and, using a pipette (they are pretty cheap) the drops of thinner (but put the thinner in the cup first). Some people use solvent-based paint (enamels I think they are called) such as those by Humbrol in their little tinlets, and produce extremely good results. A solvent (White Spirit I think) is used to clean brushes and the airbrush, rather than a water-based cleaner (or just water) in the case of acrylics.

You don't t need to use a primer when practicing, but when airbrushing a model for real, most modellers recommend a primer which has special characteristic to bind to the plastic and provide a good base for the paint.

In due course you might want to buy a spray booth to waft the spray out of the window via a fan. This is the one that I use (and other people) and it works very well:

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[monica]

hi Steve

i will only be using acrylics , as im used to using them mostly,and less smell as well,that is some think i can look into get later on save

my penny's for a better AB 1st, but very good advise thank you,

i have read that you can use windex to help the flow off the paint as well ? so i will go down the street on thursday and get some undercoat

and thinners and topcoats for a couple off kits i have sitting hear , and need to get to work on some things