Oil weathering

[eddiesolo]

Sci-fi = laser blasts, grime and muck.


Real life = shiny and clean.


Si:D

 

[Alan 45]

Sci-fi = laser blasts, grime and muck.
Real life = shiny and clean.


Si:D

See post above

 

[eddiesolo]

No...shiny...SHINY!


Si

 

[Alan 45]

No...shiny...SHINY!
Si

Is your avatar a reminder mate lol

 

[eddiesolo]

Is your avatar a reminder mate lol

LOL, no. I have been sorting out my files and just popped it up. In fact I had forgotten all about them. Keep em if you want, got some other stuff on at the moment.


Si

 

[Alan 45]

LOL, no. I have been sorting out my files and just popped it up. In fact I had forgotten all about them. Keep em if you want, got some other stuff on at the moment.
Si

You see what happened was Christmas, he came along and mate me all ill and then ran off with my mojo , the British are finished but the yanks are in different types of development :D

 

[Laurie]

[quote="Alan 45, post: 255861,


I hope this settles the debate :D


Nothing wrong with a debate Alan. No body has ruffled any bodies feathers here.


The main thing is that I am sure that we have all learnt a lot more than we knew before. I certainly enjoyed finding out a lot more about space plus it has given me an appetite to read and learn a lot more.


Keep this space (ha ha) open.


Laurie

 

[John Rixon]

Looks great Alan did you make you own oil wash as I've considered making some myself and was wondering what ratios to use.

I too have been messing around with oils - well, I do have a box full of assorted paints, it'd seem churlish not to - and it's surprisingly easy! As a rough guide, the thin washes I've made are around 8-10ml thinner (white spirit, in my case) and add to that about 5-7 mm sausage of paint straight from the tube and mix up. Mixing is a pain, and does take some determination, and I'd suggest a cheap 10 mm filbert artists brush for this job. Once mixed, the wash will separate, so keep storing it as you use it (am guessing that this might be what you pay for when you buy ready-mixed AK interactive stuff, wash that doesn't separate!). The great thing about oils is that they won't dry for a while, and even when they do, you can still adjust stuff with a stiff brush, or Q tip dipped in thinner. The above "recipe" is thin, and you can experiment with ratios, but 3 or 4 thin washes will always look much better than one thicker one, to do with the brush strokes etc, but it gives a wonderful organic surface. Below is my Tamiya Churchill Mk. Vll (very much work in progress) which I am experimenting with, having found the acrylic washes a little less than ideal for my liking. I must admit, that for getting a worn, used looking surface, I don't think I'll be looking elsewhere. Advise 1 tube Raw Umber, 1 Yellow Ochre, 1 Payne's Grey (a really useful darkener, without resorting to black, it is much more transparent than black, therefore eminently useful for this), and If you build lots of green things, a tube of Viridian. With these few tubes, you can make many subtly different washes, and they really fly into recesses and raised details, much, much slicker than the acrylic ones. I bought these to mix in, which are an amazing bargain! The bottom line is how satisfying it is to make your own at a fraction of the cost, over time!


View attachment 100462

View attachment 100463



Give it a whirl!


Cheers


John

 

[john i am]

I too have been messing around with oils - well, I do have a box full of assorted paints, it'd seem churlish not to - and it's surprisingly easy! As a rough guide, the thin washes I've made are around 8-10ml thinner (white spirit, in my case) and add to that about 5-7 mm sausage of paint straight from the tube and mix up. Mixing is a pain, and does take some determination, and I'd suggest a cheap 10 mm filbert artists brush for this job. Once mixed, the wash will separate, so keep storing it as you use it (am guessing that this might be what you pay for when you buy ready-mixed AK interactive stuff, wash that doesn't separate!). The great thing about oils is that they won't dry for a while, and even when they do, you can still adjust stuff with a stiff brush, or Q tip dipped in thinner. The above "recipe" is thin, and you can experiment with ratios, but 3 or 4 thin washes will always look much better than one thicker one, to do with the brush strokes etc, but it gives a wonderful organic surface. Below is my Tamiya Churchill Mk. Vll (very much work in progress) which I am experimenting with, having found the acrylic washes a little less than ideal for my liking. I must admit, that for getting a worn, used looking surface, I don't think I'll be looking elsewhere. Advise 1 tube Raw Umber, 1 Yellow Ochre, 1 Payne's Grey (a really useful darkener, without resorting to black, it is much more transparent than black, therefore eminently useful for this), and If you build lots of green things, a tube of Viridian. With these few tubes, you can make many subtly different washes, and they really fly into recesses and raised details, much, much slicker than the acrylic ones. I bought these to mix in, which are an amazing bargain! The bottom line is how satisfying it is to make your own at a fraction of the cost, over time!
View attachment 102223 View attachment 102224


Give it a whirl!


Cheers


John

Cheers John I will have a bash at mixing some oils and see how they turn out yours look good on the Churchill

 

[eddiesolo]

My Large Falcon surface is all oils. Acrylic grey for the inserts with a black oil wash then acrylic aluminium.


View attachment 100473

 

[John Rixon]

Cheers John I will have a bash at mixing some oils and see how they turn out yours look good on the Churchill

Thanks! Just make sure you keep brushes for oil separate from acrylic ones. To be honest, you don't need high quality brushes, I use a pack from QD that cost les than £2! If you keep a bigger brush to hand for sucking up excess wash, and kitchen towel for keeping it dry. Leave it 12 hours or so between coats and have fun!

 

[eddiesolo]

As well as brushes I used those foam shapes that you can get from a poundshop that are for make up, great for dragging or sponging.


Si

 

[dougie]

To put an end to this little debate I found a couple of sites that explain it better
http://herschel.cf.ac.uk/science/infrared/dust


In this one read the bottom paragraph


http://www.armaghplanet.com/blog/the-dangers-of-space-travel.html


I hope this settles the debate :D

I AMMMM GROOT.