Removing old paint & decals

[erasmus]

I have some very old 1/72 models from which I would like to remove the enamel paint finish including decals so that I can a) finish them in other colour schemes and b) use to the model to improve my airbrushing techniques. Any ideas please how to go about this without damaging the models themselves? I suppose I could try nitromors but I suspect that would be a little drastic and it is too "gluey" in consistency for models.

Thinking about it, how would you remove dried acrylic paints from models if you had a change of heart about colours or more likely made a mess-up of the painting!

Thanks as ever.

Erasmus

 

[Verner]

I used to use Easy-off oven cleaner-back in the day. Just don't leave it on very long. Left it on for a few days once and it started eating the plastic. Cheers.

As for Acrylics, usually denatured alcohol will do it. (Except for Tamiya brand which is really tough).

 

[backonthecase]

Most paints come off with Tesco Value all purpose cleaner, and it's cheap. See below: -

VERY CHEAP Acrylic Paint Remover FROM TESCOS - Britmodeller.com

HTH

Stuart

 

[Terrance]

Hi, Brake fluid works ok as well. Just do not leave clear parts in it.

 

[Bluewavestudios]

I suppose I could try nitromors but I suspect that would be a little drastic and it is too "gluey" in consistency for models

Whatever you do, do NOT use Nitromors on your models otherwise they will also end up with the same gluey consistency - this stuff is basically acid so will do more than remove the paint !! It will also burn your fingers if not wiped off quick enough too.

Hope this helps !!

Regards.......Mark.

 

[Professor Fate]

I have used Pine-Sol with much success to remove enamel paints. Soak the parts overnight and then rinse with water.

Fate

 

[Hilde]

try model strip from Hannants - Plastic model kits and accessories also good for stripping ebay part painted metal figures

 

[onassis]

hi Erasmus.

the recommended product from the trade for removing the enamel paint from your plastic kit is MODELSTRIP. Most model shops carry it or art shops may also have it you can probably buy it online these days. Nito mors is for wood and metal only apply that to your plastic model and it will just curl up and DIE.

Model strip comes in the form of a paste which you apply to the model, you can add a little water if the paste is a bit dry, you pop the model in a poly bag for 10 hours and seal it which prevents the paste drying out. you place the model under the tap and wash the paste off with an old tooth brush.

:scotland:

 

[Bunkerbarge]

I have heard a number of people over the years say that they have used brake fluid. It would seem that it softens the paint but does not affect the plastic. As with all things though I suspect that chemical make up varies from one to another so I would try it out on scrap plastic first and remember that it is also quite corrosive, although not as bad as Nitromors! Don't even think about going near Nitromors without gloves and a face mask or goggles. It is very powerful stuff and definately far too strong for use on plastic models.

 

[Martyn]

A light abrasive like wet and dry works well. its painstaking but at least you know it will not damage the plastic. Then just paint over what ever is left. The wet and dry will give you a goood key for the new paint.

Just be careful you don't go too far with it and remove the detail from panels and such,

 

[batai37]

Castrol Super Clean Cleaner/Degreaser. Comes in a purple bottle, and can be found in automotive supply shops and hardware stores. Works on solvent-based and acrylic paints, and it will not attack the plastic. Spray it on, then scrub off the paint residue with a toothbrush or medium-stiff bristle brush. Works great.