Rustall...

[John Rixon]

Well, my Rustall kit arrived this morning, and I have to say, I'm a bit confused! I've read the instructions through about five times, and something isn't making any sense. It suggests many thin coats of the Rustall, and that it will create "random" rust effects. Now, here's where I'm confused, if I apply many coats (which I have, to a prepared plastic textured tray), the main effect is that I have created a rusty red filter. It says nothing about removing any of the wash whilst it's wet, in fact, the instructions even suggest dipping the whole model...


So if I brush this stuff all over my pre-painted M3 Lee, (haven't decided whether to use desert colour or faded olive drab) I will end up with a tank that has a red filter all over it, or am I missing something here? What got me more concerned were the instructions for the included Dead Flat bottle, which, according to the instructions, will give me a "random" flat finish. Now, call me Mr picky, but what the hell is a random flat finish?? Somebody please help!

 

[John Rixon]

Anybody?

 

[rickoshea52]

Perhaps the solution contains particles of iron that are activated with air or water? Deluxe materials has this type of solution.

 

[John Rixon]

Well it is odd that there is very little hard info on it on the web, the only YouTube video is rubbish, and the only written advice I've found is "you have to read the instructions carefully", which I have, and have followed to the letter, with the above results! So I find myself having spent over £20 on four bottles of stuff that no one seems to know how to use. The examples on their website look incredible, but a cream coloured truck, with , and I quote, "many thin layers of Rustall" on it is gonna be orange, by the time the rust has kicked in. A video tutorial on how they achieved this, on their website, would help...

 

[Dave1973]

I'm new to all this, and I bought a similar kit, Scenic Rust, three bottles, one is a fine iron filing powder, and one is a binder. You're supposed to mix it to a thin paste, then paint the areas you want rusty.


Once dry, apply bottle Three, which activates it.


It does kinda work, but I really think there's better results using weathering powders.

 

[dougie]

Do some test pieces and try some different ways. I wouldn't go straight on to your model with it if you haven't got experience with the product and how it reacts or interacts with your paint.

 

[dubster72]

Hmmm... you know, I'm always fascinated why people buy ready-made solutions to achieve the effect they're after. So many times it leads to disappointment


Rust can be easily done with oil paints & sometimes the addition of bicarbonate of soda for extra surface texture.


The beauty of using oils is the ability to mix your own shades, work with them for longer & add texture by stippling before the paint dries.


Just my tuppennys worth!

 

[dougie]

Hmmm... you know, I'm always fascinated why people buy ready-made solutions to achieve the effect they're after. So many times it leads to disappointment
Rust can be easily done with oil paints & sometimes the addition of bicarbonate of soda for extra surface texture.


The beauty of using oils is the ability to mix your own shades, work with them for longer & add texture by stippling before the paint dries.


Just my tuppennys worth!

That's worth remembering. Will need to try some of that. Went to buy oils the other week but shop had shut down. Can you recommend oils and spirits by brand?

 

[dubster72]

That's worth remembering. Will need to try some of that. Went to buy oils the other week but shop had shut down. Can you recommend oils and spirits by brand?

I prefer Windsor & Newton personally Dougie, although they're not especially cheap. You can get a set from Ryman that's under a tenner. The quality of the pigments aren't as good as W & N ,but worth trying before shelling out on dearer stuff.


For thinning I use basic white spirit or lighter fluid if I want the paint to dry quicker - handy for washes

 

[dougie]

I prefer Windsor & Newton personally Dougie, although they're not especially cheap. You can get a set from Ryman that's under a tenner. The quality of the pigments aren't as good as W & N ,but worth trying before shelling out on dearer stuff.
For thinning I use basic white spirit or lighter fluid if I want the paint to dry quicker - handy for washes

Thanks mate, I had heard that you are better with artists spirits over white spirits but I know nothing!

 

[dubster72]

Thanks mate, I had heard that you are better with artists spirits over white spirits but I know nothing!

Personal choice is a big part of it, but I'm of the opinion that artists spirit & white spirit are the same products in different bottles with considerably different prices!

 

[dougie]

Personal choice is a big part of it, but I'm of the opinion that artists spirit & white spirit are the same products in different bottles with considerably different prices!

You could be right to an extent, the difference is maybe in the filtration and purity which will probably not be noticeable to us!

 

[dave]

To add a little, the oil paints are expensive but they will last forever with the amounts you need. They can also be used to adjust the shade of some enamel paints, certainly the Humbrol enamels I have.


White spirit is fine and I use it for cleaning brushes, but I splash out and buy the odourless thinners for painting purely to keep the smell down a bit.

 

[dougie]

To add a little, the oil paints are expensive but they will last forever with the amounts you need. They can also be used to adjust the shade of some enamel paints, certainly the Humbrol enamels I have.
White spirit is fine and I use it for cleaning brushes, but I splash out and buy the odourless thinners for painting purely to keep the smell down a bit.

Cheers for that, good info for the memory banks!

 

[John Rixon]

Hmmm... you know, I'm always fascinated why people buy ready-made solutions to achieve the effect they're after. So many times it leads to disappointment
Rust can be easily done with oil paints & sometimes the addition of bicarbonate of soda for extra surface texture.


The beauty of using oils is the ability to mix your own shades, work with them for longer & add texture by stippling before the paint dries.


Just my tuppennys worth!

I'm inclined to agree with you for the most part! There are some nice enamel washes in the AK range that I'm playing with, mainly out of curiosity, and the fact that home made washes do have an annoying tendency to separate very quickly, will report back on this! But my conclusion about Rustall is not good, basically I wasted £20 on this, as it came with other stuff I didn't really need or want. EddieSolo's rust work is far, far superior, so I,m back on pigments and fixer for that.