Sanding Sticks/Sponges

[David2788]

Recently I have purchased some Infini sanding stick sets. I’ve got ultra precision set 400 -7000, zebra sticks 100 - 800 and sponges 220 - 4000.

When would I use one type over another?

 

[Jim R]

First you need to consider the job in hand. How much material needs removing? How much space is there for sanding? What is the material, resin, styrene,filler etc?
The more material that needs removing the coarser the grit you start with. Restricted space needs a smaller/thinner sanding stick. The softer the material the finer the grit needed.
Always work from coarse to fine grits. Coarse removes the material quickly but leaves a rough finish which needs further smoothing with finer grits.
It is better to use a finer grit and spend more time sanding. Less chance of removing too much material and a smoother finish. Also keep checking as you sand to check the shape and finish. Use an old tooth brush to clean out the sander if it gets clogged up. As a sander is used it becomes less coarse as it wears so a well used medium coarse sander can be used as a finer grit sander.

 

[David2788]

Thanks so much Jim! Usually I either use styrene, filler and mr surfacer.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Another thing to note is to clean the work between grade changes. This means if you go from coarse (low number grit) to a finer type with a higher number, clean the work with a damp sheet of kitchen towel or such before starting the sanding again. If you don’t, you risk residual grit from the first sanding getting carried into the second and not giving you the finer surface you expect.

 

[A_J_Rimmer]

Another thing to note is to clean the work between grade changes. This means if you go from coarse (low number grit) to a finer type with a higher number, clean the work with a damp sheet of kitchen towel or such before starting the sanding again. If you don’t, you risk residual grit from the first sanding getting carried into the second and not giving you the finer surface you expect.

In 15 years I've never thought to do that - that's a great suggestion Tim.

 

[Scratchbuilder]

If you are not satisfied with the grades of sanding paper you are using, you can always make your own either with lengths of foam board and double sided tape to hold the paper to to the foam board, eat plenty of lollipops and keep the wooden sticks, wooden spatulas used for throat examination or even strips of thick plasticard....

 

[Waspie]

Another learning day. Cheers chaps.

 

[Andy T]

Just to add, I use the zebra sticks a lot and they cut down nicely.

Usually when I start a fresh one I'll immediately cut about a 3-4mm strip off one edge, giving me a thin sander for narrow or confined areas and still leaving a good sized main stick.

 

[Miko]

If you are not satisfied with the grades of sanding paper you are using, you can always make your own either with lengths of foam board and double sided tape to hold the paper to to the foam board, eat plenty of lollipops and keep the wooden sticks, wooden spatulas used for throat examination or even strips of thick plasticard....

Yep, Pritt sticking various grades of wet n' dry on all those things you mention means I don't buy after market abrasive sticks, wooden coffee stirrers are a good one being narrow and flexy they good for ming fuselage joins, also those four sided nail buffers are excellent for scratched or blemished transparencies such as aircraft canopies

Miko (finding alternate solutions)