It's getting that way mate.So this might end up roughly 10% kit, 90% scratch by the looks of it.
Hi Dude, On this build mate it's a case of no choice as the bits are missing but I am having fun.And you're having a great time too Buddy!!! Sure your middle name isn't Scratchy??? I do wonder sometimes and I bet you sign your checks with Paul S. Scott...Most excellent work my friend!!!
Prost
Allen
I think that's normal for Scottie's builds.So this might end up roughly 10% kit, 90% scratch by the looks of it.
Cheers Dude, I was really happy with the way the rest of it had turned out but you can't hide glazing issues and the cab is the focal point of a build. I will have a think about what I can do to resolve it and maybe I will get round to it again. Thanks for the support along the way.Sorry to hear that Paul...It seemed like you were having such a good time fixing it......OK, maybe not....Take a break from it and in a few weeks, maybe the urge will strike you to finish it. It was looking really nice Buddy....
Prost
Allen
cheers Dude very kind of you the money is in the normal place third cubicle from the left.I can understand that Paul...I'm building a Tamiya Kübelwagen and it's been giving me a hard time too, believe it or not...
You know I always love to follow your builds as they just get better and better!!!...
Thanks Andy but just can't get the glazing to fit. Maybe a other day.Sorry to hear that Paul, it was looking amazing.
Resin AFV kits are generally easier to build than softskins, because there are far fewer fiddly bits to line up correctly for the main shapes. Plus, little or no glass windowsThis kit has really made ne think twice about doing anymore resin kits, which is a great shame as there are some interesting subjects out there.
Rick, cheers mate I will put it to one side and move on. Dig something out of the stash and get yourself back to the bench it will work wonders.Mr. Scottie, you have my full condolences when it comes to a situation such as this. I too am in a similar place and it has been bothering me for some time now. I hope this does not get you into a similar slump.....wouldn't wish this on anyone.
Jakko, The main reason is its a very curved shape and due to the moulding there is no definitive locations for the glass.Resin AFV kits are generally easier to build than softskins, because there are far fewer fiddly bits to line up correctly for the main shapes. Plus, little or no glass windows
Cheers Steve, I hope so mate it would be a shame after all the work that went in to it.Sorry to hear that mate - I empathise with you, perhaps some time hence we'll see the culmination of your efforts!
Steve
Tim thanks mate some excellent food for thought. I do like the idea of thicker material. I will have to see what I have.Too good to give up on us this one Paul. Give it a rest then come back at it after rethinking the problem. The glazing shouldn’t be too bad really. It is flat glass after all. There are a couple of approaches to this that I’ve used in the past, and one that comes to mind when looking at pictures of the real truck.
Ignore as much of the following as you want, it’s just suggestions…..this model is a cracker and needs to get over the line……no pressure mind
One I’ve used is simply butt joining the glazing into the aperture. It’s OK, but doesn’t take much handling.
Another way I’ve used is to carve out a rebate behind the frame and fit the glass into that. Might not be feasible here though.
One that I’ve not used, but that comes to mind, is this…..Looking at pictures there is rubber beading around the glass, so perhaps you could add the beading to give a locating ridge for the glass to fit against.
The panes of glass will need to be filed up individually and fitted one at a time. I find it’s better to use thicker rigid stock like 0.5mm (or even 1mm) clear styrene for the panes. It’s easier to file up accurately and stays flat in the apertures. Some people used to use plastic from the boxes Ferraro Rocher comes in . I used Krystal Klear to stick mine in, by the way.
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