Tank driver

[andy55]

How do you get the driver in the seat. Have noticed this on the few models that I've built, the driver needs to be a contortionist to get in the seat let alone drive... its the T60 tractor from miniart with the Pak 40. Had to cut the poor buggers legs off to get him in. What am I doing wrong.

 

[Gern]

Don't think it's you Andy. This is a common problem when trying to get drivers/pilots to fit properly. Maybe the model companies should get their seat designers to work with their figure designers - or maybe just provide them with a built seat and controls so they can pose the figures correctly.

 

[andy55]

Don't think it's you Andy. This is a common problem when trying to get drivers/pilots to fit properly. Maybe the model companies should get their seat designers to work with their figure designers - or maybe just provide them with a built seat and controls so they can pose the figures correctly.

Sounds like an idea. Did try cutting at the knees but then you start cutting the ankles, then the waist. Ah well you won't see his lower half when the hull top goes on.

 

[Jakko]

Unless it’s a driver specifically designed for this vehicle, he’ll probably be hard to get to fit. Even if it is one specifically for this, you may have to plan ahead, dry-fitting the driver before you complete all the bits around his position to ensure he can go in later on.

 

[andy55]

Unless it’s a driver specifically designed for this vehicle, he’ll probably be hard to get to fit. Even if it is one specifically for this, you may have to plan ahead, dry-fitting the driver before you complete all the bits around his position to ensure he can go in later on.

Oh he'll fit, at least he will now I've chopped his legs off... but yes you're of course right. Thankfully it will only be his head visible on the completed build. But still annoying. Apparently the Russians referred to the T60 as 'two brothers coffins' not sure how much of that was the lousy armour and how much was all the spinning drive shafts.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Not surprised model figures don’t fit well. Real people had real issues getting into some tanks, and they had flexible joints…really don’t know what the answer is though.

 

[Steve-the-Duck]

Not surprised model figures don’t fit well. Real people had real issues getting into some tanks, and they had flexible joints…really don’t know what the answer is though.

The Vickers Valiant springs to mind...

Probably the best thing for drivers and such is only have in there the parts that are actually visible. Most driver figs used to be half figures, back in the day. Of course, if you want a full figure it could be posed sitting in the hatch with only its' legs inside. Like on a fag break!

 

[Scratchbuilder]

As an expert leg and arm cutter, I learned a trick from an old friend.
When and before you seal up the tank, you fit the driver minus head into the driving position you want - once happy with your work you then paint said headless driver. After painting him/her you seal up the tank, leaving the hatches to be painted/fitted later. Then add a piece of sponge to mask the entrance to the drivers compartment which also masks the drivers torso. Once you have finished the painting/weathering/varnishing, remove the masking and apply the drivers head, add the hatches - job done.

 

[andy55]

Not surprised model figures don’t fit well. Real people had real issues getting into some tanks, and they had flexible joints…really don’t know what the answer is though.

The Vickers Valiant springs to mind...

Probably the best thing for drivers and such is only have in there the parts that are actually visible. Most driver figs used to be half figures, back in the day. Of course, if you want a full figure it could be posed sitting in the hatch with only its' legs inside. Like on a fag break!

I knew quite a few bomber rear gunners and they were all small guys, had to be short to get in the rear turrets, wondered if it might be the same for the drivers.

 

[andy55]

As an expert leg and arm cutter, I learned a trick from an old friend.
When and before you seal up the tank, you fit the driver minus head into the driving position you want - once happy with your work you then paint said headless driver. After painting him/her you seal up the tank, leaving the hatches to be painted/fitted later. Then add a piece of sponge to mask the entrance to the drivers compartment which also masks the drivers torso. Once you have finished the painting/weathering/varnishing, remove the masking and apply the drivers head, add the hatches - job done.

I like your thinking. Getting the body in would be an issue with the top on, but just sticking the head to an in situ body would be easy.

 

[Jakko]

Once you have finished the painting/weathering/varnishing, remove the masking and apply the drivers head, add the hatches - job done.

I did something similar for my M32B1 tank recovery vehicle (that I’m still technically working on ) except I built the whole driver and glued him into his seat, and before adding the upper hull, wrapped him in a section cut from a sandwich bag:

 

[andy55]

I did something similar for my M32B1 tank recovery vehicle (that I’m still technically working on ) except I built the whole driver and glued him into his seat, and before adding the upper hull, wrapped him in a section cut from a sandwich bag:

Decisions, decisions. Cleaning up the figures at moment to prime, so will have to have a dry fit and see which way will work best. Cheers.