S
Stevekir
Guest
Tip 1: I have found when airbrushing (and for hand brushing) there are two thing that need to be thought through before starting.
The first is how to hold the part during painting, which usually requires the part to be rotated. That needs a holder and the first photo shows what I use when the part has a hole in it, or if it hasn't, the tip of the screw can be pushed into a blob of White Tack. The second photo shows a handle fixed firmly to a quite complex part which must be rotated around and if it fell off it would be a disaster. The wood handle was attached using a No. 6 wood screw through a hole drilled in an inconspicuous area of the part. For painting the other side of the part, the handle would be re-attached to the painted side.
The second thing to think about ahead of time is how to put the part down safely while the paint is still wet. In the second photo, the handle can be stuck to a blob of White Tack. (In this case the part could safely be put down to dry, but only if no handle is attached). The first photo shows the screws stuck to the surface with White Tack which is preferably applied before painting. For the part t the back, where the hole is at one end, it is important to angle the part so that its centre of gravity falls over the point where the screw is on the surface. Otherwise, the part will eventually fall down under gravity.
Tip 2: The pink colour of the primer used in the second photo is to allow me to see it going on while spraying on to plastic that is the same colour as the primer. The two Vallejo Surface Primers that I have are in grey and in white and it is difficult to see them going on to grey or cream plastic. (Black is good but I don't like black plastic because it is difficult to see detail when sanding etc.) I added a few drops of red primer which makes a big difference. (Possibly some Model Air paint could be added to give the colour.)
View attachment 78950
View attachment 78951
The first is how to hold the part during painting, which usually requires the part to be rotated. That needs a holder and the first photo shows what I use when the part has a hole in it, or if it hasn't, the tip of the screw can be pushed into a blob of White Tack. The second photo shows a handle fixed firmly to a quite complex part which must be rotated around and if it fell off it would be a disaster. The wood handle was attached using a No. 6 wood screw through a hole drilled in an inconspicuous area of the part. For painting the other side of the part, the handle would be re-attached to the painted side.
The second thing to think about ahead of time is how to put the part down safely while the paint is still wet. In the second photo, the handle can be stuck to a blob of White Tack. (In this case the part could safely be put down to dry, but only if no handle is attached). The first photo shows the screws stuck to the surface with White Tack which is preferably applied before painting. For the part t the back, where the hole is at one end, it is important to angle the part so that its centre of gravity falls over the point where the screw is on the surface. Otherwise, the part will eventually fall down under gravity.
Tip 2: The pink colour of the primer used in the second photo is to allow me to see it going on while spraying on to plastic that is the same colour as the primer. The two Vallejo Surface Primers that I have are in grey and in white and it is difficult to see them going on to grey or cream plastic. (Black is good but I don't like black plastic because it is difficult to see detail when sanding etc.) I added a few drops of red primer which makes a big difference. (Possibly some Model Air paint could be added to give the colour.)
View attachment 78950
View attachment 78951
