weathering for a beginner

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pj117

Guest
Hi guys


I'm pretty much new here and this is my first thread so go easy!


I made models for a few years but I've just recently got back into the hobby. This time round however I'm very keen to make my models realistic by weathering them.


I've watched countless videos online and have tried a few techniques with ak products, tamiya products, and artist pastels but my results have never been anything beyond decent.


My avatar is the model I'm attempting to weather: tamiyas 1:35 panther ausf a tank. I've spray painted the base and somehow managed a half decent soft edge camo scheme with a brush. I've left the weathering until I know how because my trial attempts havent been great.


Hopefully some of you have great tips for me or even know of previously posted tutorials/guides to link me to, if these 'weathering threads for beginners' are too common to bother with.


Many thanks


PJ
 
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Laurie

Guest
PJ. Just get Acrylic techniques by Mig Jimenez and that will set you on course. Great DVD well filmed well edited and well describes.


Laurie
 
P

pj117

Guest
Thanks for the reply.


How much would a DVD like that cost? I was hoping to avoid spending anymore money on the hobby as Ive wasted a few quid buying products and not being successful


Pj
 
D

dubster72

Guest
The entire DVD is on YouTube, I'll see if I can find the link.


Other than practice, practice, practice (!) I would suggest you break the weathering down into stages & then ask for advice, tips etc before each stage.


So having applied a gloss coat & decals, the 1st stage is applying a pin wash or a series of washes.


Then you might apply some oils as a dot filter.


Further applications of oils to add rain streaks and/or dust.


Then there could be rusty bits, metallic sheens on raised edges...


Any help we can give is just a frustrated scream away!


Cheers


Patrick
 
P

pj117

Guest
Thanks guys this is great help!! Ive a model painted and ready for some practice before the panther so I'll let yous know how it goes.


Where would you suggest to start after the base coat, decals and gloss coat has been added?


Pin wash first or a general flood wash?


Cheers


Pj
 
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pj117

Guest
Do you know if he covers the model in a gloss varnish before beginning the filters and washes?


Many Thanks :smiling3:
 
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dubster72

Guest
I prefer pin washes as they're easier to control & clean up.


As far as the Mig vids go, I don't think he uses a gloss coat because Vallejo paints leave a satin-ish finish so he probably doesn't feel the need.


Myself, I need all the help going, so I do gloss!
 
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Laurie

Guest
PJ on the Mig DVD


Do not forget that the video shows Acrylic Techniques. There is quite a lot of differences between acrylic and enamel.


So if you are enamel bound I would not bother as it will probably be confusing.


Jimenz does not use a varnish. I would think if you did use a gloss varnish you may have problems as the acrylics would not flow as well as enamel on the varnish.


If you want to get acrylics off I have found you do have to be quick. I have found within the hour and that is using thinners. Just to add that the acrylic base must be well cured at least 48 hours. If not in removing weathering not wanted you are in danger of also removing the base paint.


Laurie
 
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Laurie

Guest
Think this is the one Patrick has mentioned above.


This will give an idea of what it is about. It has been reproduced from the DVD which has a top resolution. You are better off with the DVD as the detail, at full screen which you need, as is the sound superb.


But before investing have a look at utube to see if you are impressed. i certainly am and have continually used it as a reference for each technique illustrated. It is just under the hour long so there is a lot in there. Plus it is an eye opener to see Jimenz working away.


Laurie
 
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John Rixon

Guest
Absolutely agree with Laurie, this video is essential viewing really, if only to see a complete process in action. As a beginner too, I've shelled out for a range of washes - acrylic and Flory (which are particles in water, with no binder) and watched the videos. The tricky bit is finding the confidence to splash muddy mixes all over your pristine work and hope that you can make it look better before they dry! I told myself that, as long as each model gets better, I'm probably on the right track. I've just started fooling around with home-made oil washes, which are principally turps (White Spirit) with a little dab of artist's oil paint mixed thoroughly in. I was wary of going down this path, as I wanted to keep everything water based, but having tried it, I am sold! Your local QD has probably got an oil set for under £2 - mine has - and to kick off, all you really need is Raw umber. with a cheap 0 brush, just load it up and gently touch the areas you want it to flow around, rivets, panel lines etc. The white spirit evaporates away, leaving residues of pigment in all the nooks and crannies. But, and here's one of the main advantages, you get plenty of time to wipe away any possible mistakes with a Q-Tip or tissue, and even the next day, a brush moistened with turps can be used to clean up bits, fade edges etc. Very forgiving, and once you've bought a few tubes of oils, very cheap. But for me, most importantly, its a lot of fun to do!


Each model you build and paint will teach you something, and as long as you're having fun, you're on to a winner!


Here's my Churchill (WIP) all acrylic paint job, all oil weathering.


View attachment 100997


fin-churchill.jpg
 
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Laurie

Guest
\ said:
Here's my Churchill (WIP) all acrylic paint job, all oil weathering.


View attachment 110955
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Wow you are a quick learner. Lot of techniques there John


Also noticed the weathering techniqus on the picnic table. Very impressive. So impressive it looks real. o_O


Laurie
 
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John Rixon

Guest
Ha ha! The motivation is high, and am realising that an awful lot of these skills are transferable. Ironically, I never took to oils as a painter, couldn't stand the smell, or the shag of cleaning everything with white spirit. But I have a system going here with separate brushes for oil washes, and acrylics, so all is good! Next challenge is finding a way of stopping them separating quite so quickly, am thinking of a few drops of linseed oil? Just some mud to go on now. That churchill was a beaut to build and paint, now waiting for my "deuce & a half" to arrive.
 
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pj117

Guest
Thanks guys for all these tips and links!! I haven't had a chance to sit down and begin trials but some time soon I will!


That Churchill is looking pretty good John!


I'll post photos in the next few days of my attempts and hopefully you all will have more tips and hits to help me improve


Really appreciate the fast feedback


Pj
 
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Laurie

Guest
\ said:
begin trials but some time soon I will!
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PJ great idea. I spent hours and hours practising. It does pay huge dividends both in results and heartache.


All seems easy first looks but with model making it is the hours you put in experimenting testing and getting techniques together. When these start to come thro. model making I find is a joy.


Laurie
 
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pj117

Guest
Sorry for the absence the last few days, I've been busy!


This is my first attempt at colour modulation and pin washing. The model is 1:76 airfix m4 Sherman. The surrounding diorama is something I made quickly for a different model a while ago.


I Still need to add the decals and apply chipping and a matt coat but let me know what you think so far

View attachment 101544

1424975136590-209657547.jpg
 
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John Rixon

Guest
So far, so good! I'd be tempted at this stage to get the decals on, then dirty the hull down a bit (a lot) with washes of very dark raw umber (see my previous post for recipe), don't feel too precious about the coating, a "loose" brushing style will look best, so plenty of direction change as you're coating it! It is a tiny model, so I'd go for a size 6 brush and keep the wash thin. You can always add more washes, and oil washes can be tinkered with well after application. To be fair, most tanks in the field were filthy, and it looks like you've got the running gear pretty spot on, a few light oil washes will tie it all together (all in my opinion, of course - I'm new at this too, but only speak as I find!). So, to summarise, I'd get the decals on, then get washing and chipping! If you want some visual inspiration, watch "Fury" - you'll struggle to make out much olive drab on those Shermans!
 
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