What are these...

andy55

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Building a Dragon sdkfz251, with ez tracks. Is this something to do with the track building as I can't find any reference to them on the instructions. Anyone got any ideas.
1000017722.jpg
PS the tracks don't seem to fit...
 

Allen Dewire

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No Andy, they have nothing to do with the tracks. The look like ammo storage cans for MG or small caliber cannon rounds. If your kit allows you to build a few versions, check the destructions carefully to see if these are in one of them...

Prost
Allen
 

andy55

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Sorry, just had a look at the sprue plan and if it's in blue, not used, it's in blue...
Will walk walk to the firing squad wall. Tomatoes from 10 paces.
 

andy55

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If your kit allows you to build a few versions, check the destructions carefully to see if these are in one of them...

Prost
Allen
Call me a silly bugger. After just building my first tank with build up tracks, thought it must be something to do with that. Didn't think of the obvious.
Cheers Allen
 

The Smythe Meister

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Yep, first thing I thought was "ammo boxes", 30 Cal ?!!:thinking:
... nice that they are though :thumb2:
 

andy55

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Thanks guys, just feel a bit of an idiot. Ah well, live and learn. What I have realised is those tracks are going to be a sod to put together without a jig. The version is the /9 with the 75mm gun.
Andy
 

The Smythe Meister

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Thanks guys, just feel a bit of an idiot. Ah well, live and learn. What I have realised is those tracks are going to be a sod to put together without a jig. The version is the /9 with the 75mm gun.
Andy
Not an idiot at all mate,.....
.. we all learn as we go :thumb2: ..
 

Jakko

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those tracks are going to be a sod to put together without a jig.
I built one of these Dragon 251s about a year and a half ago, there’s a thread about it on the forum. My advice for building the tracks is to start like this:

10d1a32b-cad3-4cdb-98b8-c4174459592e-jpeg.465156


I’ll quote myself from that thread:
Bloody track links … I chose the “Magic Tracks” because I figure the later type of track would be on this vehicle, but I suspect the early type on the sprues would actually be the easier one to clean up. Each link has two ejector pin markings on it, so those need to be filed down, which requires holding it between thumb and forefinger, filing one side flat, turning it around and filing the other. With links that are 8 mm wide and 5.5 mm long, that’s hard enough on the joints in my fingers that I can manage ten to fifteen or so before I had better stop before the ache gets too bad.

That continues here. To sum up: I would advise you to glue the blocks to the track links first, and only then click the links together.
 

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Ah! tracks, tha bane of our lives...
After the great advice from Jakko, especially his first comment :smiling6:. If you can enlarge the side view up to the size of your model, then trace around the INSIDE of the tracks as they go around the wheels etc. Cut out the tracing and glue to a thick piece of card, this will be the template for assembling your tracks. Or if you really wish to get busy cut out two templates add a spacer between them for the guide horns and assemble the tracks BUT remember to not glue the ends together or make the tracks up in two sections - top and bottom.
Hope this helps, it sounds like a lot of faffing around, but is better than struggling and losing faith...
Cheers
Mike
 

Waspie

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I remember from my 3 part per link set up on the CH2 I built. The tip I was given that worked for me was only do as many links as you feel you can manage without making errors. One day I managed 14 links another over 20, took a few days. In the end I had two full tracks without messing up too much. My main error was not looking closely enough at the individual parts. There was, (regarding RFM tracks), a visually correct way to assemble them. If in doubt, ask. I had some great help on here. Jakko and Scratchbuilder can take a bow!!! Cheers fella's.
 

andy55

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I built one of these Dragon 251s about a year and a half ago
That is very useful. Nice to see that you had the same issues as I have. Started reading, but have go out so will go though later. Didn't occure to just do a push fit on the tracks, will give it a try.
Thanks Mike, will give it a try as well and decide which way to go.
Andy
 

andy55

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I remember from my 3 part per link set up on the CH2 I built. The tip I was given that worked for me was only do as many links as you feel you can manage without making errors.
Hi Doug. Found that with the tiger tracks, took about 3 days. Found it something to do whilst waiting for paint/glue to dry...
 

Jakko

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The tip I was given that worked for me was only do as many links as you feel you can manage without making errors. One day I managed 14 links another over 20, took a few days.
That, and don’t leave the tracks until the very end. I’ve said this plenty of times before, but a lot of modellers build the whole vehicle and only then start on the tracks, meaning they have a very dull job ahead of them with nothing else to do until it’s finished. But if you start on the track around the time you also start on the rest of the model, and break it up into doing short lengths at a time like Doug says, you’ll find it much less tedious.

Jakko and Scratchbuilder can take a bow!!! Cheers fella's.
You’re welcome :smiling3:

Didn't occure to just do a push fit on the tracks, will give it a try.
As I mentioned in the thread about the French Sd.Kfz. 251, pins are likely to break on a fair number of links. But as long as at least one of the two pins still remains, the tracks should hold together well enough to paint them and add them to the model. If they get too snaky when building, it will help if you straighten them out (along a ruler, for example) every once in a while, because this will relieve strain on the links that only have a single pin left — which is where the track is most likely to bend sideways.
 

andy55

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Why do i get the feeling I'm going to regret this build. Though to quote Steve McQueen, I once knew a man who jumped off a 10 story building, as he passed each floor he was heard to say, so far so good.
 

Jakko

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Why do i get the feeling I'm going to regret this build.
Because you picked a kit that’s not actually all that good? ;) The tracks are simply very fiddly, the rest of it is OK but the model has a major issue in being about 3 mm too narrow … The only reasonable way to correct that, though, is to put it back into its box and buy one from AFV Club instead :smiling3:

to quote Steve McQueen, I once knew a man who jumped off a 10 story building, as he passed each floor he was heard to say, so far so good.
Have you ever seen Magnolia? :smiling3:
 

andy55

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… The only reasonable way to correct that, though, is to put it back into its box and buy one from AFV Club instead :smiling3:


Have you ever seen Magnolia? :smiling3:
Nar, started so I'll finish, was thinking of maybe a combat dio, so depending how it turns out could become a wreck...
No haven't seen the film.
 

Jakko

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I asked because the joke about someone jumping from a tall building goes together very well with one of the anecdotes at the very start of that film :smiling3:
 
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