Which Alclad 2 for Chrome

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Stevekir

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Which chrome colour of Alclad 2 should I use for a 1923 Rolls Royce car? There are several different chromes.

I have just noticed that there is Alclad (as well as Alclad 2). What is the difference please? Which would be better for me?
 

Ian M

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Alclad 2 are the new ones.

they do one called polished chrome I believe.

Put over a gloss black base it looks rather good.

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Adrian
I've used Alclad II a lot the past days working on a new project, currently I'm spraying Chrome for Lexan which gives a highly polished look. Its really important to make sure the preparation is flawless though as any small imperfections will show when spraying.

I always spray a grey primer coat first and flat that down to a near glass like finish then once I'm happy its as good as I can get it I apply the first coat of Alclad II Gloss black, I then flat this off and repeat another coat of gloss black. I found through trail and error that it's important to make sure the gloss black is completely cured, if you don't the black will seap though and tarnish the chrome layer. So I leave the black for 2 days before I start the chrome, at this point it's important to spray at 15psi and very fine mist coats to build up the depth.

As for chromes if its wheels I would suggest the standard chrome ALC-107 or Lexan chrome ALC-114

Adrian
 
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Stevekir

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\ said:
I've used Alclad II a lot the past days …...

As for chromes if its wheels I would suggest the standard chrome ALC-107 or Lexan chrome ALC-114

Adrian
Thanks. Very helpful.

The chromed parts are wheels, headlights, bumper, windscreen surround (I think) and the iconic Rolls Royce big chromed radiator. Apart from the wheels (you recommend ALC-107 or -114), what would you recommend for the other parts, especially the radiator which is so dominant?

I cannot see any details about what "Lexan" means?

What is the difference between -107 and -114?

Thanks.
 

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http://alclad2.com/finishes/high-shine/

The ones marked LEXAN are made to paint on the inside of clear RC cars body shells.

Ian M
 
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Stevekir

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I have now got my Alclad 2 Chrome ALC-107 and Gloss Black Base ALC-105. They both say to clean with Alclad Airbrush Cleaner. I assume that my Vallejo/Media airbrush cleaner (for acrylics) cannot be used. Correct?

If so, I will have to buy some and pay for courier delivery. Unless IPA will do, which I have.

Thanks.
 

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Cellulose thinner works a treat and is a lot cheaper. and I think can be bought almost any ware hardware.

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Sky Raider

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Cellulose thinner. I spilt some of this on my TV remote in the workshop and it melted the plastic.

Andy
 

Ian M

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Good point Andy. Forgot to say KEEP IT AWAY FROM THE PLASTIC!!! As a side note its a good base for DIY plastic filler and you can use it as glue if you are careful.

Its a lot cheaper than the Tamiya Thin.

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Stevekir

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Black Base and Alclad 2 High-shine Chrome ALC 107 A few questions please (I emailed Alclad but they didn't reply):

1. Adrian said he used a grey primer under the Alclad Gloss Black. Was that a normal acrylic primer (which I have, by Vallejo or another type?

2. Do I need to thin either of the two Alclad 2 products (Gloss Black Base and ALC -107 High-shine chrome)? If so, what thinner (Cellulose Thinner? also used for AB cleaning) and how much?

3. Part of my vintage car model needs a very high gloss black finish. Alclad don't offer this as such, but someone said that a coat of Gloss Black Base (no additional coat) produces what I want. True?
 
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I'm not an Alclad expert.But I've learnt a few things from my recent attempt to paint my Lightning with it.I used my usual Vallejo acrylic polyurethane white primer.The one in the big bottle.I sprayed Alclad gloss black base on top of it and it worked fine.I then lightly sanded a couple of imperfections in the paint and touched up with more black base.Finally after leaving the black to dry overnight, I sprayed Alclad airframe aluminium onto the model.It gave a really nice metal finish.Except for a small,highly visible patch on top of each wing.Thats when I realised I hadn't done the black base properly.Ive heard it so many times but the black base really does need to be as perfect as you can get it.Im now in the process of paint stripping the model before starting again.The Alclad products do not need thinning prior to spraying.I use an Iwata Revolution with 0.5 nozzle.You will see as soon as you poor the stuff out of the tin/ bottle that it's pretty thin already.Finally, I cleaned my airbrush with cellulose thinners I bought from a decorating shop.But my airbrush doesn't use rubber seals.Another thing,the Aluminium finish did not take kindly to being handled.It needs coating with Alclads clear varnish.Ive got some but didn't get that far!.
 
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1 The Alclad series are lacquer based. I've used Halfords plastic primer under them with no problem. I would definitely test an acrylic primer before committing to your model as it goes against the usual 'rule of thumb' to use one under a lacquer. That doesn't mean that it won't work, but be careful.

2 You don't need to thin the products.

3 I haven't used the Alclad gloss black base but I have seen it first hand on a model. It gives a pretty good gloss black to my eye, certainly equivalent to the Humbrol I used. I was avoiding the Alclad because, at the time, there were issues with drying which now seem to have been solved.

Whatever you use make sure to leave plenty of time for each coat to dry and completely cure or you will end up with an imperfect finish. I used Humbrol gloss black as an undercoat on my Eastern Airlines model and left it for about a week to be on the safe side! This is highly polished aluminium rather than chrome, but the principles are the same.



I've never found Alclad to be a particularly fragile finish. I've masked it with 'de-tacked' Tamiya tape and rarely had a problem with that. I'd say it's equivalent to most acrylic finishes in toughness. You can coat it, once dried, in a clear varnish and it doesn't have to be Alclad's. I use Klear. Any varnish will detract slightly from the highly polished finishes whilst being almost unnoticeable on the 'normal' (aluminium etc) finishes.

Cheers

Steve
 
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