Eduard 1/48th Scale Tempest Mk.V (Geoff's D-Day GB)

Tim Marlow

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Wise words from the lads here. Just to clarify and demystify this, all you are doing is working with small flat metal bits as opposed to small plastic bits. Don’t talk it up in your head and demonise it. That way you are beaten before you start. With a few simple tricks and tips it really isn’t any harder than handling small plastic parts. It will never be as easy as sticking on a wing, but then, neither is putting on tiny plastic parts.

With the Eduard cockpit etch you certainly don’t have to use it all. I tend to just use the “useful “ bits like seat belts and panel fronts that can really sharpen up a build. Things like levers can be a real headache but are OK once you get a system going. One hint I would give is not to use tweezers. The natural thing to do is grip too tightly, and all this does is put loads of energy into the tips of the tweezers, distorting the jaws and making the part fly out. After years of losing parts this way I very rarely use them for anything. The easiest way to handle these small pieces is to use a scrap of blue tack on the end of a cocktail stick. No pressure, so no energy, so no part flying away……it only takes a very small scrap of blue tack, just enough to hold the part while you place it.
Another trick worth knowing is to anchor the part you are gluing the small bit in to the bench, again I use blue tack. That way the bench acts like a third hand and only one part can move while you are adding the small bit. You can even brace one hand against the other to improve control.
I tend to use cockpit canopy white glue (a bit more tacky than normal PVA) for tasks like this. The work flow is as follows…..

- Form the etch part. This is a job where tweezers can be useful if the part is really small.

- Anchor the main component to the bench as described above.

- Pick up the etch part using the cocktail stick as described above.

- Dip the end of the part in a small puddle of glue (if a lever or suck) or put a spot of glue on the location.

- Place the part.

- Wait a few seconds for the glue to “grab”.

- Remove the stick and blue tack.

- Take a few deep breaths and start over on the next bit…..

It really is that easy. Just don’t psych yourself out and you’ll be fine. There has been a myth built up around etch for years and I just don’t understand it. All you are doing is adding a small metal part to the build. It’s nothing to be scared of……and in the end, you really don’t have to use it all, only the bits that you think will enhance the build. Kit instructions are not law, they are just guidelines……and if you are happy, we are happy…..
 

Scratchbuilder

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Hello Steve, following on from Tim, you are in the denial stage.. We all went through it when we started to use photo etch, things went into space never to be seen again, items once in place were found to be in the wrong place, items were folded in reverse because we were either not paying attention or in far too much of a hurry... I have hunted all day for a part, never found it untill I wondered what that sparkle was on my forehead...
You will get annoyed, I still do, and the thing here is to put it down and get on with something else in the build, I have screwed up a whole sheet of etch, and then once things had cooled down spent the next hour rolling and smoothing it all out again, and getting stabbed in the finger tips for my trouble.
As I said in my original post, you are at the beginning and it does take a few attempts to get the grasp of P/E, I have posted a couple of pics to give you an idea of where I am at with possibly my next build...
20240613_095647_HDR.jpg
This is the 'slat armour' and armour panels upgrade for a 1/35 scale Trumpeter M1130 command vehicle...
20240613_095855_HDR.jpg
Or I could be doing this RFM Leopard 2A6M of the Canadian Armed Forces... But the thing to look at is the amount of etch... But through experience you gain the knowledge of how to approach the subject, what parts to use and what to leave off, what can be used to modify what you have, for example seatbelts - here once you have the confidence you could cut off the buckles and add them to paper belts you have cut yourself using the p/e ones as a guide as an example...
Now lets take this subject below...
20240613_100126_HDR.jpg
Yes it is mine... Top left is the Eduard etch set (look familiar) in the centre is the Vampire set from D J Parkins (loads of little bits) and on the right is the Eduard 'Look' 3D cockpit instrument set, so once I get the armour out of the way then I will be where you are today, loads of little parts and on an unfamiliar subject of which I have a lot more 'wingy things' in the stash.
Once you have grasped the 'toolery' required it will become second nature to you, like assembling a kit, the only difference is that the parts have been bent and shaped for you, and I can go back to the days when if you wanted a particular subject you sat around first glueing and then carving a piece of balsa to make a two-seat or the radar dome on the underside of an Avenger or even a T4 Lightning, and I will not go into the dreaded vac-forms or the early airbrush(s)... So stick with it (excuse the pun) and you will get there...
 

Tim Marlow

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Way to scare him to death Mike LOL.

Actually, let’s look at this objectively……looks like a lot of scary shiny brass parts for the M1130 doesnt it….but you don’t need to dive in that deeply to start with. They are not that frightening. If that was plastic you’d just see kit sprues. The only difference is that the kit sprues in this case are made of brass. Like everything in modelling, take it one bit at a time, make sure it fits, then stick it on with the glue of your choice…..

Taking that Eduard cockpit set as an example, in your situation (and mine these days) I would use the instrument panel, the seat belts, the panel fronts, and the hand wheels and levers. They are the bits with the biggest visual impact. The rest is not that noticeable and, to me, is optional. Life is easier if you paint the basic structure first, then add the etch, by the way, but it’s not essential to do that.
 

Scratchbuilder

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Get 'em while they are young.... LOL

In the case of the slat etch for both vehicles once you get the initial 'square' and two slats in place the others litterally fall into place, that is untill you look and see that the locating holes for the rods are the wrong way round, and you can bet that every time I will have at least one on every section... The 2A6M comes complete with slat armour but due to moulding restrictions in real life it would be about 50mm+ thick, but I will be cheating and using the kit support arms and combining the etch parts.

The cockpit set was originally for the Trumpeter Vampire, but along the way I lost the cockpit canopy and a few other parts, as you know, in the box, out the box etc. And when Airfix brought out their offering I went for it, the instrument set and then totally forgot I had that addition, so splashed out and bought the 3D set.. The DJ Parkins set comes from a resin Vampire, which really was warped in five directions and no amount of heating with boiling water, hair dryer or other methods would straighten it out and so it had to go - thankfully it was a passed on kit from someone at a bring and buy and for £2 I could not argue...

But the object was not to scare, but to show that where I am today is where I was alongside Steve some time ago, with the same frustrations.
 

Waspie

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Wise words from the lads here. Just to clarify and demystify this, all you are doing is working with small flat metal bits as opposed to small plastic bits. Don’t talk it up in your head and demonise it. That way you are beaten before you start. With a few simple tricks and tips it really isn’t any harder than handling small plastic parts. It will never be as easy as sticking on a wing, but then, neither is putting on tiny plastic parts.

With the Eduard cockpit etch you certainly don’t have to use it all. I tend to just use the “useful “ bits like seat belts and panel fronts that can really sharpen up a build. Things like levers can be a real headache but are OK once you get a system going. One hint I would give is not to use tweezers. The natural thing to do is grip too tightly, and all this does is put loads of energy into the tips of the tweezers, distorting the jaws and making the part fly out. After years of losing parts this way I very rarely use them for anything. The easiest way to handle these small pieces is to use a scrap of blue tack on the end of a cocktail stick. No pressure, so no energy, so no part flying away……it only takes a very small scrap of blue tack, just enough to hold the part while you place it.
Another trick worth knowing is to anchor the part you are gluing the small bit in to the bench, again I use blue tack. That way the bench acts like a third hand and only one part can move while you are adding the small bit. You can even brace one hand against the other to improve control.
I tend to use cockpit canopy white glue (a bit more tacky than normal PVA) for tasks like this. The work flow is as follows…..

- Form the etch part. This is a job where tweezers can be useful if the part is really small.

- Anchor the main component to the bench as described above.

- Pick up the etch part using the cocktail stick as described above.

- Dip the end of the part in a small puddle of glue (if a lever or suck) or put a spot of glue on the location.

- Place the part.

- Wait a few seconds for the glue to “grab”.

- Remove the stick and blue tack.

- Take a few deep breaths and start over on the next bit…..

It really is that easy. Just don’t psych yourself out and you’ll be fine. There has been a myth built up around etch for years and I just don’t understand it. All you are doing is adding a small metal part to the build. It’s nothing to be scared of……and in the end, you really don’t have to use it all, only the bits that you think will enhance the build. Kit instructions are not law, they are just guidelines……and if you are happy, we are happy…..
Just reading other folks builds and you/I pick up so much useful information.
Thank you from me Tim, that was so very informative. :thumb2: Well worth reading.
 

SteveT

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Okay, one tiny thing to show but I'm so sorry people. I'm really REALLY not enjoying this build so I'm going to box the kit and file it for a time, I'm sorry but
I don't want to carry on working when I'm not enjoying it at all (and it's not just the PE)

This is the last image I took, shows the cockpit with the PE belts.

I may get back to this before the time ends or I may never get back, but I thought it was better to be honest.
(Huge apologies to Geoff, i've caused him such problems and I'm sorry)

temp.png
 

Jakko

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Don’t sweat it, if you’ve not enjoying it then just build something else that you do. I suspect it’s a bit of a case of trying to run before you can walk, so once you’ve built up your skills a bit more, you’ll probably remember this kit and put it together just fine.
 

Lee Drennen

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I don't want to carry on working when I'm not enjoying it at all
Never Ever do that! It will turn you off building and loose all Mojo. Like Jakko said move on. Go to your Happy place pick a Happy friendly kit and enjoy life as Butterflies fly around you as you build your fresh new kit.
 

Geoffers

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Absolutely no apologies needed Steve.

It’s a hobby and should be fun so if you’re not enjoying it it’s best move on to a different build.

Pop it away for now and build a few more to gain confidence and come back to it when you want to.

Geoff.
 
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