1/16 Centurion Tank in Paper

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cutandfold

Guest
For those interested, the Centurion is still getting worked on...very slowly...LOL...but at least it hasn't been completely forgotten!

Still trying to sort out the basics of the Main Hull assembly.

Once I get the supporting structure figured out the rest will start to fall in place.

Stay tuned.
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
End of March 1/16 scale Centurion Update

Well, its been a while (with this project), but just to prove it has not fallen by the wayside...

I ran up against a few issues with my first Hull form.

The central Hull being the the main part from which everything is attached, turned out to be

a bigger obstacle than I had envisioned Buried under a lot of tank "bits" it is deceptively

complicated and has a very particular shape with many compound angles which proved to

be a challenge to design as a paper model.

While it would have been possible to cheat with a smaller scale model and make the Hull more

boxed shape, at this scale I have to be faithful to the actual shapes and angles involved.

For example, the main chassis/hull has angled sides making the belly plate only about 70% as

wide as the top plates. (This is of course to deflect incoming fire down toward the ground)

The nose and Tail have multiple angles as well...setting up some interesting compund angles with

the side plates.

None of this is too difficult, until you try to design an inner form using thicker card, in as few pieces as

possible, that can be easily understood ny the builder...

and an outer "skin" that matches the contours and angles PLUS fits over the formers with just the right

amount of tolerance.

And of course, there has to be a workable assembly method for all this.

Complicate all this with my flip-flopping on the final scale size.

Anyway, the point is...I went through a number of Hull designs...printed parts...and wasted cardstock...

before finally arriving at what looks like a workable Hull!

This design has the fewest parts so far, and I took the suggestion of using a tab-slot assembly method

for the Former parts. (sorry, I forget who actually made the suggestion, but thanks)

The "tabs" are small...even at this scale...but not difficult to deal with.

However, the final assembly requires a little sanding of the tabs as they stick through the side plates.

So, with a new Hull former design, I was able to modify all the "skin" parts to fit and add the remaining

design elements (tabs, slots, cuts, folds, etc).

And I ran through a quick test of all the "skin parts, making sure everything fits the Hull.

(and figuring out all the adjustments and necessary fixes)



And...everything went together properly so I finished up the textures and colouring on the actual parts

Next step is to build what hopefully will be a final Hull assembly.

(I've already started work on Suspension parts, so it better be!)

But, before I do that, I need to sort out the Driver's compartment and Engine compartments.

These will be tubs that are inserted into the Former assembly.

They can be assembled separately and don't rely on any other assembly.

But, they will need to be fitted into the Hull former before the outer skins go on.

I have the Driver's "insert" almost done...just got to add the foot pedals and hand controls,

and a few more small detail elements.

But it will be an awkward squeeze to get in in, since I already sealed up the top of the

Former assembly! (yes it really needs to drop in from the top!)

The Driver's compartment might seem a little pointless (and it is completely optional for the

builder) since the only viewing of this area will be from a very small access port above the cockpit.

But its there in case you want to install it.
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
April 9 Centurion update...Hull skins are attached!!

Heres what I finally got down over the last week...

in anticipation of attaching the skins to the Hull former, I need to sort out some of the

"interior" parts, just in case any overwrap of the skins interfered with installation.

I also didn't want to risk damage to the skins, so I think this will be the recommended

assembly method...to install most, if not all of the interior parts before attaching the Hull skin.

A few shots of various stages of the progress.

You may notice some part changes...

I didn't photograph everything, but some parts got many redesigns before arriving at the final designs.

First couple of shots show the installation of the Engine compartment "tub" and the early versions

of the Fuel Tanks and Air Cleaner housings.

I decided to drop the rear (Transmission) compartment tub and simplify the Differential and Transmission

assembly...but first I needed to get the cooling fans in place.

As I mentioned, the Transmission/Differential has been somewhat simplified for assembly and

installation...partly because I like to appeal to less experienced builders,

and partly because its a well hidden part.

I also had a problem related to my Former design...the center longitudinal rib is in the way of

a full drive train (drive shaft, clutch, couplings, etc).

I made the decision to stick with the bulky major components in the Transmission and Engine bays

and leave any more detailing up to the builder.

So, next is the installation of the radiators and cooling system.

This involves swiveling Radiators that reveal the transmission and cooling fan areas.

My original design had some fairly complicated plumbing which caused me a lot of troubles during

assembly, so I opted for an artistically modified Coolant reservoir which simplifies the plumbing and

swivel mechanism for the Radiators.

(Keep in mind, there is still a framework to go over top of everything that will support all the Engine

Bay covers and upper deck components.)

and, as you can see, I have attached the Hull 'skins".

Other than some edge colouring, before and after the installation,

and a little trimming...

all went together quite nicely.

I haven't sealed up the top deck yet...I want to install the front hatch parts first.
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
almost forgot...

I also got the front Glacis plate installed to complete the Hull form.

(A little rushed - I definitely could have done a better installation. I was trying to get a photo

real quick and I rushed the assembly. But a lot of it is hidden by the side skirts anyway...)

And now I am working on the Engine...

the front hatch will have to wait now, until I get the engine and its components done.
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
Centurion April 14 update...

So...I've got a few small tweaks and changes to make...

some minor adjustments...

but I think I've got the Engine components all done!

Engine bay is filled with Motor, Generator, Pulleys,

Fuel Tanks, Air Cleaners, Oil Tank,

Cooling Fan intakes and Intercooler.

Only thing I left out was the turbochargers since room is tight

and they are completely hidden anyway.

(Same reason I didn't bother with the hidden Exhaust pipes)

Rear compartment contains the Differential/Transmission, Brake Discs,

swivelling Radiators, Cooling Fans and cooling deflectors.

(as I showed in earlier photos)



Also got the Driver's compartment hatches finished.

Once again, got a couple of adjustments to make to allow them to open and close easier.

Obviously you can install them closed, open or somewhere in between...but if you want

them to be hinged, they can be.

My Hinge design is very simple and relies on paper folding - but the builder could modify

it to be a real hinge. I've seen some pretty creative hinge builds!

The Viewing Periscopes are represented and they do swivel within the Hatches.

(They are one of things I have to tweak...mine (shown) are a little oversize, and they

interfere with the Hatches opening and closing.)

...

Now, its on to the Engine compartment Covers.

I have to design the supporting framework which will complete the two rear bays.

And design the hinged Engine covers that will seal up the rear of the Hull.

Centurions!....march!!
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
April 22 - Latest update!

Work continues...slowly...but surely.

I am actually still enjoying myself! lol

With the rear compartments finished...

and the Instruction pages completed (up to this point),

I am ready to tackle the "covers" for the engine and transmission bays.

The covers them selves are not too much of an issue...there is a front (engine) cover

that has slots - staggered air inlets, and it is connected to the rear (transmission) cover

which is solid plates carrying some venting baffles over the radiators.

These two covers are connected in the middle by a row of "hinges".

My original plan was to make the covers with working hinges, but this turned out to be

a bit of nightmare.

First off, even at 1/16 scale, all the little plates that make up each hinge, are quite small.

And there are many, many to cut out.

There are ten Hinges...each with 5 plates...and each plate has two parts...and then laminated multiple times.

I made my first mistake, by not drilling out the hinge pin holes before I had cut out the parts.

Second problem is that each small plate still has to be a certain scale thickness. And this creates

a very visible layered paper/card edge. Colouring did not help much. And the plates are not thick

enough to consider a 3D part...unless you like assembling extremely small parts with a microscope?

Eventually I gave up on these parts.

I have always tried to design my kits with the "beginner" in mind. I would rather simplify a part

for a better build, than leave it complicated for only an "expert" to handle.

So, I went back to the computer and came up with a simulated hinge part that doesn't actually

function, but assembles a lot easier.

I think the finished look is acceptable...and to be honest, I think I prefer the one piece cover assembly

which you can still lift off the two covers (as one assembly) to view the rear compartments.

So now, there are ten individual parts to assemble to make the ten hinges.

A few small fold and tabs, but with a pair of tweezers, I eventually got them done.

Covers went together with only a couple of minor tweaks.

(You can see all the finished hinge parts in the second picture below, ready to connect the two Covers)

Once assembled, and dropped into place on the Hull, it actually starts looking like what its supposed to!!

I only wish I had remembered to do some back side colouring on the cover parts...but i was so focused on

getting the fit and assembly, I didn't think about what might be visible within the vented cover.

I'm just finishing up the supporting cross members and side brackets (for the covers) which when installed

with give the covers a flush fit to the sides of the Hull.

The recessed and snug fit of the covers within the Hull sides means there will be no need for any sort of

attachment.
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
...follow-up update

New cross brace and side support brackets in place.

Pretty simple really...no need for anything complicated here.

And the covers drop in nice and snug, and very solid.

Other than some surface attachments, I think the Hull is complete.

Next step will be suspension and drive components.

and, to give you some sense of the overall size...so far...

(Willie is 1/18 scale, about 14" long...Centurion Hull is 1/16, and 18" long )
 
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cutandfold

Guest
Centurion Tank work has been shelved for a couple of weeks now.

A few other things going on in life...

and I wanted to finish up the re-work of an older model.

My 1-33 Spitfire kit was in need of some updates, a redraw, and some modifications.

And recently a request came through the paper modeling forum for a particular Spit

and that was the incentive I needed to get the Spitfire work done!

Just released, a Spitfire Mk.IXe Beer Truck!

I'll be getting back to the Centurion real soon.

Keep watching!
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
Centurion Update May 26

........................................

wow, over a month since the last update!

sorry about that.

...but I had to deal with the Spitfire redraw and the release of the Spitfire Beer truck model.

So, I'll try to make this update a good one.

Work has continued behind the scenes, on the Centurion's suspension parts.

Unfortunately, what I thought was going to be a straightforward component, has turned

into a very frustrating exercise. Numerous tweaks and changes have slowed down the design

but the biggest problem is still the fitting of the "tires" to the main suspension wheels.

I don't know all the names and actual terms for the parts, so please forgive my inaccuracies.

The Centurion has three main pairs of suspended Axles and Wheels on each side.

The track is driven and supported at each end by two large Gear Wheels.

Supporting the upper area of the Track are four main Idler Wheels,

and two minor Idlers front and rear.

Here is one the upper Main Idler assemblies. Basically a supporting bracket and two rubber tyred wheels.

I was going to make these with an axle and rotating wheels, but I changed my mind and kept the

assembly simpler. Its really not necessary for a static model...and thats the kind of thing the builder

could change if they wanted to.

I had a basic idea for the main Axle/Wheel sets and it worked out fine with a few small tweaks.

This is one of the two outer Suspension units...with pivot limiting linkages.

(The center suspension unit is only required to pivot a few degrees, so it doesn't have the external linkage)

Even though this unit is fairly large, I went for simplicity of build and tried to keep the part count to a

minimum. I went with the simplest method of attaching the Wheels to Axles, and the end result gives

you rotating wheels (if you want them). Small Hub Caps lock the wheels on to the Axles.

This is where I ran into the biggest problem with my original design.

Fitting of the Main Wheel Tyres turned into a frustrating project.

In fact, I am still not happy with the design and am going to try some more alterations.

At first, I used two strips, around the wheel rim, to locate each assembled tyre.

But to keep the tyres fitting tightly to the rim meant I couldn't cleanly get them on to the

rim (over the locator strips). I tried about 6 different resizes and variations of the tyres to

make them fit...before giving up. Eventually I settled on one center strip around the rim,

which the inner and outer tyre can butt up to. This helps locate the tyre, but still leaves

the outer edges of the tyre very loosely fitted. And you can't easily glue the outer edges

because the glue will be visible and messy.

So the tyres in these pictures aren't even glued in place yet.

To assemble, the Main Suspension Units and Idlers just glue flat to the Hull at the marked locations.

Not the strongest connection I admit, but there's lot of surface area to glue and once

all six units are in place, the weight of the tank will be spread out sufficiently.

After the Units are attached to the Hull, pop on the Wheels and Hub Caps.

Other than some possible Tyre modifications, I like what I have so far.

I wish there wasn't so many Wheel Units to assemble!

But I think I will get them all done first,

before tackling the minor idlers,

and then its on to the front and rear Drive Gears.

The rear Drive Gear will also include the Main Drive output housings.

And to give you some "scale" sense, heres the model sitting on the side cabinet.

She's getting bigger...

Thats it for now.
 
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rememal

Guest
Just to save on possible future confusion...

The 6 Small upper wheels are known as Return Rollers

The large toothed wheels at the rear are the Drive Sprocket

The large wheel at the front is the Idler Wheel

And the large paired wheels are the Road Wheels.

This model just keeps on getting better.

Keep up the good work.

Malc.
 

takeslousyphotos

No Tears Please. It's a Waste of Good Suffering.
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Messages
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Peter
I've just seen this thread and been right through it..........and I am absolutely amazed with the detail and your skill.

Peter
 
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cutandfold

Guest
thanks guys.

rememal...thanks for the part names...I will try to remember those.

takeslousy....I just love the pinhead avatar!! I am going to steal it!
 

takeslousyphotos

No Tears Please. It's a Waste of Good Suffering.
Joined
Apr 14, 2013
Messages
4,295
Points
113
First Name
Peter
\ said:
thanks guys.rememal...thanks for the part names...I will try to remember those.

takeslousy....I just love the pinhead avatar!! I am going to steal it!
............ Steal away.

Peter
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
Just a short update...

works continues on the Centurion Tank...slowly.

Family issues and other projects have slowed down the work,

but I try to put in a few hours here and there.

I have been doing much repetitive cutting and preparing many little parts

necessary for the Suspension components. This is the only real negative

aspect to doing Tank models in paper. Lots of duplicate parts that make up

the drive wheels and tracks, etc.

Anyway, I have all the suspension units (for main road wheels) finished

and am installing them now (to the Hull).

Next up will be assembling the upper return Rollers and all the Road Wheels.

You may notice a slight colour difference between the earlier installed suspension

unit (at the rear) and the newly assembled units. This is the problem with not printing

everything at the same time. However, in this case, I also printed this last batch of

parts with a lighter ink level. My fault. But to be honest, it is barely noticeable in person.

I think the camera flash exaggerates the colour difference.
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
Latest update (June 16) just to keep everyone in the loop.

And to prove that works continues, slowly, behind the scenes!

With many repeated parts for the suspension and track support, its a slow build.

Lots of disks and tubes and strips and stuff to cut out!

Now I see why you guys love Tank models so much! lol

Pictured here, some of the parts for the Return Rollers...

and one of the return Rollers fitted into place.

I am quite happy with this.

Even though there are a few turning or rotating parts, the overall assembly is all fixed.

I am not trying to design a rolling system with moveable track.

and after some tedious work, I have finally got all the main suspension units (minus the actual Road Wheels),

and all the upper Return Rollers in place.

I have also got one of the front (single) Return Rollers installed...just working on the other side now.

I had some concerns over the front Idler Wheels and the supporting brackets and tensioners.

But after some experimenting I came up with an acceptable looking assembly.

I tried to simulate the track tensioner and the pivoting mount for the Idler wheel axle.

everything is fixed in one position, so there is no real adjustment for the Track.

I guess I better get the measurements right!

Idler wheel itself is not complete (no tread) in these photos.

and thats it for now!

...more work tonight!
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
and, finished up the front Idler Wheel.

I'm not completely happy with it, but its acceptable.

Theres a lot of parts to assemble...not difficult, just a bit complicated.

And you have to cut out all the little ribs and glue them in place,

so its a bit tedious and hard on the eyes.

I tried a couple of different simpler versions, but at this scale, a certain level of

detail is required...which just serves to complicate the construction.

The mounting is a little wobbly too...but I won't know how wobbly until I

try to fit a Track. So, for now, I am going to finish up all the other parts.
 
M

mobear

Guest
this is in paper aarrggghhhhhh,looks fantastic so far,i cant even make a water bomb out of paper lol(or a paper aeroplane that flies upright lol)

mobear
 
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rememal

Guest
I`m loving this.

Although it looks to me as if the adjusting bolt for the track is angled down when it should be horizontal to the ground.

Keep up the good work.

Malc.
 
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