1/16 Centurion Tank in Paper

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rememal

Guest
The builder can things like that if they feel the need.

Any idea of what the price of the end product will be, or is too early to know/
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
I basically design and sell only digital kits*.

*In case you aren't familiar, a digital paper model kit comes as a PDF.

You get a Cover Page, and sometimes there are information pages.

And you get Instruction and Assembly Diagram pages, and Parts pages.

You print the Parts pages yourself, using your Home PC Printer.

You can also print the other pages or just refer to them on your PC.

Some guys will take the files to a local Print/Copy shop for better quality printing

or special papers/cardstocks.

This kit will be on par with my Autocar model so it will probably be around $12

http://papermodelshop.com/html/military_vehicle.html
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
Centurion Tank has been on a temporary hold.

I feel like I am a little burned out on the project.

After breaking for a Paper Modelers Convention in October, I had difficulty getting restarted.

I've tried to work on the Instruction pages (which is the first thing I must catch

up on) but that was just frustrating and so I stopped.

I decided to leave the tank alone until I found the motivation to get back into it.

What with Xmas and real life issues, modeling took a back seat.

I have tried a few smaller projects to help me get going again, and to keep

my mind off the Centurion...because it seems to just depress me. lol

My biggest issue was the Instruction pages...I was trying to keep up with them

as I was working on the design of the Tank last year, but I got way behind.

And I really didn't want to go any further until I was caught up with that.

Finally, a few days ago, I got started!...I have completed the main parts of

pages 7, 8 and 9 and I am now on to page 10. So this should allow me to

start designing more parts.

In fact, to complete the latest Instruction diagrams, I had to finish a couple of parts.

There has always been a question of exactly what version of Centurion I may offer.

I'm referring to the Mark.

The plan was a Mark 5...but not knowing much about these tanks, I was not up

on what the differences are.

Many people like, and want the big 105mm gun.

But the L7 gun change didn't happen until later Mark 5 tanks.

But the later Marks (5/1 and 5/2) also have other modifications like the

extra armour plate on the front Glacis...

So, I decided to offer everything in the same kit, regardless of the livery/nationality.

The kit will come with the Mk 5.0 'A' Barrell 84mm gun...the extra armour plate and related parts

for the Mark 5.1...and the 'B' Barrel 105mm gun for the Mark 5.2.

Extra Glacis armour plate shown here:

50 cal Coaxial MG for the Mark 5.0 (removed for the 'B' Barrel) shown here:
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
And work continues...this is good...

Been sorting out these Storage boxes that go on the sides of the Turret

and create the distinctive Centurion Turret look we are all used to.

Was actually a bit tricky getting all the angles right.

And I am still a little off with the left side split boxes.

The Turret looks symmetrical, but its not.

And the left side has a Pistol Port.

Designing the one larger box was quite easy.

The two smaller boxes were a challenge.

I also experimented with opening versus non-opening containers.

And variations on the lid assemblies.

In the end I went with the simplest design, fixed lids, fewest parts.

An experienced modeller should have no problem making modifications

if they want functioning lids...although it will require adding an interior to

each container...or colouring the insides.

There are lots of metal wire handles all over the Turret and storage boxes.

They are used mainly (I think) as attachments for tie down straps.

The storage boxes have canvas straps to secure them properly.

Adding some straps wasn't hard, but all those metal loops are just too small

so I resorted to artwork on flat surfaces, and some 3D artwork on things

like the canvas straps.
 

Ian M

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Good to see you back at it. It is a most impressive project!

Ian M
 

flyjoe180

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It is truly impressive, look forward to more soon.
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
...small update...

I think its time to start working on some of the surface details...

the final things (other than the Track) to finish this project.

Things like:

-bracketry and small attachments on the front glacis.

-the attachments on the Turret sides.

-all the upper hatches and top details.

-all the surface items on the rear plate

There are a lot of little brackets and attachment points for different items.

I am going to try to concentrate on the largest surface details first.

I'll do all the really small stuff at the end.

Starting at the rear...

I created the Air Deflector...at least I think thats what it is? It mounts below where the

rear Transmission compartment is vented. And it covers part of the Tow mounting.

The main rear Tow Hook is mounted to a large dampening spring.

Building the spring was simple enough, with plenty of layers.

There are about 7 leafs, each made of two layers of card, and then bound by clamping strips.

The Hook pictured here has been changed to a larger version that better matches my reference.

Everything is flat mounted to the rear plate, so its all simple installation.

A couple of tricky little flat iron brackets to make, but nothing too difficult.

The Tow Spring fits into two welded plates that also support a pair of flat brackets...which

support the deflector plate.

The upper rear deck plate holds a few welded plates, the central support for the large Tow

Cable (not shown)...as well as some smaller brackets to support the cables and the Telephone

box on the left side.

The tank pictured below has the 100 gallon ext. Fuel tank on the rear...thats why the support

for the Cable is mounted in a slightly different position. But the cable is the same.

I'll probably be sorting out the parts for the Tow cable next.
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
okay, so I said I was gonna focus on larger surface details...

and I was looking closer at the Tow Cable (for the rear)

and realized I needed to put in place, the four small supporting brackets

that hold the cables when stored on the Tank.

And while looking at the photos of those brackets, I got wrapped up in

how to represent the Tools that are also stored on the side covers.

So, I ended up spending the day working on those things.

And now the Tank has the four Tow Cable brackets in place,

and the brackets and hold-downs for the Tools.

Oh...and the Tools, too.

Two Shovels...one Sledgehammer...two Picks and Pick Handles
 
R

rememal

Guest
Great work, so far.

The Mk5 had a 20lbr gun and .30 cal co-axial mg

The Mk5/1 was as Mk5 with the addition of extra armour plate welded to the glacis.

The Mk5/2 was as the Mk5 but replaced the 20lbr with the 105mm gun but NO extra armour on the glacis.

It can be a bit of a nightmare sorting Centurion Marks out unless you have studied them.

Keep up the good work, I`m looking forward to the end product.
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
Centurion March 9 Update

I think I have the front (Glacis) sorted out now.

Redesigned the Storage Box...my original one is basically a rectangle,

whereas the actual Container should have the upper left corner angled.

Not sure if I will correct my Model, but the kit is adjusted.

Also got those Lamps done...at least I think they are some sort of Lamps?

To be honest, I have not researched them to find out what they are. lol

I just hunted, and found two nice photos of the parts, that I could use to

design the paper versions. My originals (as you can see here) came out a

bit too big. I have reduced them (in the kit) to about 80% of this size.

These seem like an optional item...very few Tanks in photos seem to have them.

But they are on almost every Canadian Mk5 I have seen, so that why they are

added to the kit.

I also stole three links of previously assembled Track to fit into the Bracket for

spares. I'm not sure, but I think some more spare Track links are attached to the

Turret...so that just adds more to my much needed Track production! lol

I am currently working on the Turret attachments...

starting with the Main Hatch.

First parts of the Hatch Extension

This is basically the egress tube, that is fitted to the top of the Turret casting.

The swiveling Hatchway will fit on top, and into, this tube.

At first I was just going to form the extension with 2 or 3 parts, but it became obvious that

it wasn't forming properly (too flimsy) and it would need to support a lot more items (eg metal

guards, about 10 periscopes, the entire hatch assembly itself, etc)...so I created an internal

form for the extension.

However, getting the two mated took a little bit of redesigning, and I had to make a couple of

changes to the original top plate (on the turret). But all seems okay now.
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
Centurion March 9 Update continued

So, here is the completed Extension fitted to the top of the Turret.

This will be glued in place as tightly as possible.

My top plate (on the turret) has the wrong cutout in it.

The part in the kit has been fixed...but I cannot at this point swap out

this plate...so I will have to make some small cuts in the Extension part

to get it to fit as neatly as possible. I don't think you will notice this.

Now I am assembling the swiveling hatchway which is basically a set of rings that house

a bunch of periscope ports and the main hatch itself.

The periscopes are protected by some flat steel Guards and there will also be parts for

a machine Gun mount (to come later)

The angled parts shown in this photo are deflectors to go on the top deck, just in front

of the Hatch extension...and the small Hatch door is to be ignored. (lol) Its just an early version

of the secondary hatchway...but the hatch shapes were very wrong and they didn't fit.

I'm already working on new ones.

Heres the Hatch assembly sitting in the extension part...it is not glued into place. It can be, if

you want...but it can also be left to swivel. I will have to wait and see how it stays in place

once a machine Gun has been fitted. I am unsure at this point if the assembly will need to be

glued into place or not.

And then, here is everything fitted to the turret. Looks good what?

The simple Hinge for the hatch seems to work good so far...so hopefully no changes needed there.

I am quite happy with the way this looks.

For now, I am moving over to the secondary hatches.
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
A few more bits done today...

was a good day for watching the Nascar race and getting some more parts assembled.

My third design of the secondary Hatches worked out pretty good.

Along with the forward Periscope (and Wiper attachment).

A couple more shots of all new parts installed.

We're cruisn' now!
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
Just a quick update...took a break from the tank again.

Too much frustration over the Track design.

I'm happy with the look of the Track, just not enjoying the tedious and slow assembly work.

Finally decided to reboot...with a fresh approach to the Tracks.

And good thing I did.

Seems I had made a major measurement error, and the Track I have been working on isn't going to fit anyway.

So, I have a new Track design...and I am currently in the middle of beta testing a section.

Once I am sure it is going to work, I will post an update.

And hopefully get back to regular work on this model.

For those who have been watching so far, I appreciate the support and interest!
 
P

Paul P

Guest
I have seen some impressive builds from styrene sheet and rod, but never anything this good out of paper, an absolutely stunning build, keep it up im totally hooked on this
 
C

cutandfold

Guest
May 15 Centurion Update...

so, the new Track design looks like its a GO!

Other than one small tweak still to do, everything looks good.

I finished one section (26 track links) and tested it on the Tank model.

The track looks pretty much the same as the first assembly, so there's no disappointment there

...overall dimensions are pretty much the same, so no visible change in that respect.

I may as well run through the basic assembly (since these threads are often instructional as well

as newsworthy)...and for the benefit of those people who helped me sort out the first track design.

1. I start with a printed page...this contains almost all the parts for one section of Track (thats 26 link sections).

You must print 8 of these pages to assembly two full tracks.

And the first step is to score all the fold lines and crease points (before cutting anything out).

2. Next, cut out all the little inside holes. There are about the same number of holes to be cut, as with the old

design, but they are all the same size and shape, and all aligned the same, so it only takes a few minutes.

Biggest change here is with the main (separate) parts for each track link - replaced by the long strip of links shown

at the top of this photo - which eliminates the need to cut out a ton of notched and oddly shaped parts!

3. Next, cut out all the parts and sort, ready for assembly...also do some edge colouring at this point.

4. These are the "cleats" - which still have to be folded and glued into shape, but are now a separate part that will

be affixed to the track "foot plate".

5. The "foot plate" itself is the only part to be laminated - doubled up - to create some necessary scale thickness.

Easy enough to cut out the parts as a group, laminate to a second layer of card, and then cut out the parts.

6. Track sections are "joined" with single layer card part, which a "foot plate" will glue over top. It will add a third layer

of card at this spot, but should be hardly noticeable once the entire track is assembled.

You will also notice I have coloured the back side of all the creases, so that they don't show between the plates when the track is flexed.



7. Affix all the laminated "foot plates" by lining up the edges and slots...easy peasy!



8. Then glue the assembled "cleats" on to the "foot plates - center and align.

(One thing I keep doing, is folding the crease at each link, just to make sure no glue sets on the creases and stiffens the part)

You can also see in the background, I have begun assembly of the inner Track parts - this boxy part holds the "track guide"

and creates the Road Wheel running surface for the Road Wheels.

The "track guides" are all together on a separate page of parts (which you will need to print twice).



9. Assembled track looks pretty much the same as the older design.

Although the Road Wheel running surface is a little neater, smoother.

(This particular section of track does not have enough space between the road wheel surface parts - this is the last tweak I need to make.)



10. Three more sections will complete one full Track.

My estimate is about six to seven hours in total (spread out over three days) to complete all the work depicted here.

I think thats at least half of what it took for the older design! Maybe, a third of the time!!

And although there is still a lot of repetitive work, its definitely a lot simpler, and less tedious.

I think that is worth giving up the real "pin" hinge assembly.

 
D

Deleted member 3568

Guest
That is incredible and out of paper!!!!! I bow to your superiority.
 
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