Airfix 1/48 Canadair Sabre F.4

[SteveT]

Paint the hub, paint the tyre close to the rim and then run an earth/dust-coloured wash to bridge the gap perhaps!
Steve

I like that idea!

 

[Waspie]

What I tend to do is using a thin paint mix and a very small fine brush, I take the paint to the line between the tyre and the wheel. The paint then runs along the dividing line under its own steam.
If my eyes aren't up to it I apply liquid mask to the wheel. (not the tyre).

 

[SteveT]

I will end today on a positive note! I have one really good golden tip for you all!
When you go to shake your Tamiya pot of paint ....make sure the top is screwed on!

I just went to spray the 2nd coat of paint onto my bombs (well, I think they're bombs) and as usual I gave the pot a good shake before putting it into the airbrush ..alas I'd just placed the top on and not screwed it!

So.. I got paint all over the sink, the shelves, my face, my glasses, my shirt. Haha!! That'll teach me to take more notice!

 

[Jakko]

Yep, always fun when you don’t realise that the cap isn’t on

I’ll raise you one, though: Revell used to sell airbrush-ready paint that had a steel mixing ball in the jar. Steel balls and glass jars are not a good combo, though … I had two of those jars break in my hand as I was shaking them. Paint everywhere, big shards of glass in my hand, smaller shards on the floor, but luckily I didn’t cut myself. After the second, I dug the mixing balls out of all of the jars I had, and from any new ones I bought.

Oh, BTW, Tamiya paint really needs to be treated like you’re anti-James Bond: stirred, not shaken It will mix much better if you stir it with a flat stick — I’ve been using ice lolly sticks for that for 35 years.

 

[Waspie]

I will end today on a positive note! I have one really good golden tip for you all!
When you go to shake your Tamiya pot of paint ....make sure the top is screwed on!

I just went to spray the 2nd coat of paint onto my bombs (well, I think they're bombs) and as usual I gave the pot a good shake before putting it into the airbrush ..alas I'd just placed the top on and not screwed it!

So.. I got paint all over the sink, the shelves, my face, my glasses, my shirt. Haha!! That'll teach me to take more notice!

Sorry for the laughing smiley!! (I really should stop seeing bad things as funny). I religiously check my Tamiya Thin now after knocking it - thinking the lid was on I didn't do my usual cricketers catch. Instead, for my slow realisation, I spent a good half an hour cleaning up the mess. I also discovered Tamiya Thin removes all the markings from your cutting mat!!!! Every day a school day. (Even at my age).

 

[SteveT]

Sorry for the laughing smiley!! (I really should stop seeing bad things as funny). I religiously check my Tamiya Thin now after knocking it - thinking the lid was on I didn't do my usual cricketers catch. Instead, for my slow realisation, I spent a good half an hour cleaning up the mess. I also discovered Tamiya Thin removes all the markings from your cutting mat!!!! Every day a school day. (Even at my age).

No need to apologise, I found it funny myself. it taught me a lesson too, I'll always check in the future.

 

[SteveT]

Yep, always fun when you don’t realise that the cap isn’t on

I’ll raise you one, though: Revell used to sell airbrush-ready paint that had a steel mixing ball in the jar. Steel balls and glass jars are not a good combo, though … I had two of those jars break in my hand as I was shaking them. Paint everywhere, big shards of glass in my hand, smaller shards on the floor, but luckily I didn’t cut myself. After the second, I dug the mixing balls out of all of the jars I had, and from any new ones I bought.

Oh, BTW, Tamiya paint really needs to be treated like you’re James Bond: stirred, not shaken It will mix much better if you stir it with a flat stick — I’ve been using ice lolly sticks for that for 35 years.

Ouch!! and.. oh dear, all my tamiya pots have ball bearings in. I'll be careful when I shake them from now on.

 

[Tworrs]

Sorry for the laughing smiley!! (I really should stop seeing bad things as funny). I religiously check my Tamiya Thin now after knocking it - thinking the lid was on I didn't do my usual cricketers catch. Instead, for my slow realisation, I spent a good half an hour cleaning up the mess. I also discovered Tamiya Thin removes all the markings from your cutting mat!!!! Every day a school day. (Even at my age).

Yes I also noted the marking on the cutting mat disappearing very quickly when I too knocked the TET bottle over

 

[Jakko]

I also discovered Tamiya Thin removes all the markings from your cutting mat!!!!

We do glue parts together using solvents, after all

 

[SteveT]

Little update, close to the end now. Just masked/painted the canopy and the modelling work is pretty much done now.
I bought some Tamiya X-22 to clear coat it with (the Humbrol went in the bin after the last disaster)
I just need to do a little touching up around some doors etc before I do that.

I'm seeing some weird tiny white bits on the starboard wing, tried wiping it carefully with a cloth but it won't move. I'm tempted to try a little IPA but i'm scared of damaging the camo.

So the plan tomorrow is to do the touching up, glue on the canopy and then clear coat the whole thing ready for the decals.

 

[Jakko]

To get rid of the white bits, I think I’d probably simply try drybrushing over them with the same grey you painted the camouflage with.

 

[rickoshea52]

Thought it was going too good. I've spent the last two full days painting the wheels over and over and over and over and.. well you get it.
I get the rubber black on the silver hub or silver on the rubber. I have painted them over eight times now!!

and quite frankly I'm at the edge of giving up again. How can it be so hard to paint WHEELS!?!!? Tried brush, tried airbrush but it makes no difference.
I'm losing my mind right now. I thought I was getting close to finishing this but the damn wheels have finished me.

Use paint masks, Eduard mask sets provide precut masking tape for canopies and wheels. A cheaper alternative is using a circle stencil like you can get from WHSmith. Use the closest size for you wheel after doing the tyre first.

 

[SteveT]

No update for a while as i'm still adding decals/stencils and I'm very very slow at it. I think there is over 120 stencils and quite frankly I'm losing the will to live adding them one by one and some of them are TINY! (see image!)

I will not give up though and I'll keep plodding on. images to come when it's done but I do have one question. Do you clear coat after the decals are all done and before you add any weathering or after the decals and the weathering is done?

 

[Waspie]

No update for a while as i'm still adding decals/stencils and I'm very very slow at it. I think there is over 120 stencils and quite frankly I'm losing the will to live adding them one by one and some of them are TINY! (see image!)

I will not give up though and I'll keep plodding on. images to come when it's done but I do have one question. Do you clear coat after the decals are all done and before you add any weathering or after the decals and the weathering is done?

View attachment 507648

Know EXACTLY what you mean Steve.

 

[stillp]

After decals, before weathering.
Pete

 

[SteveT]

Thank you!