I'm not too much of a fan of the fuzzy look-it can make a paint job look sloppy. I have not looked hard enough at original paint jobs (but will do). Assuming that the distance from when the fuzzyness starts at one colour and stops at the other colour, is 1 inch (25mm), at 1/72 that equates to 25/72 mm = 0.37 mm. At 1/48 it is 25/48 = 0.52 mm, and at 1/36 scale = 0.74 mm. Even if the fuzziness occurs over a distance greater than 1 inch, it seems to be undetectable to the eye in most scales even at close range.\ said:I wasn't after a 'fuzzy' edge Steve.I tried to replicate the finish on the one in the photograph as viewed from a distance.
That's actually a photo of a real Phantom Steve !.\ said:I'm not too much of a fan of the fuzzy look-it can make a paint job look sloppy. I have not looked hard enough at original paint jobs (but will do). Assuming that the distance from when the fuzzyness starts at one colour and stops at the other colour, is 1 inch (25mm), at 1/72 that equates to 25/72 mm = 0.37 mm. At 1/48 it is 25/48 = 0.52 mm, and at 1/36 scale = 0.74 mm. Even if the fuzziness occurs over a distance greater than 1 inch, it seems to be undetectable to the eye in most scales even at close range.So, the conclusion seems to me to be that masks stuck directly on the model is the best way. Any other views?
I like your photo. Shows off the model nicely which gives a very good impression that it is flying. I prefer propeller planes and it is difficult editing the props in a photo to appear to be convincingly rotating.
For FULL Forum access you can upgrade your account here UPGRADE