Etch Help please.....

[The Smythe Meister]

Evenin` Chaps,
Could you guys tell me which glues are give the best results for attaching Etch to either itself or plastic please?
..... any thoughts/suggestions will be gratefully received ,
Cheers,
Andy

 

[AlanG]

Superglue or Gator Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue

 

[colin m]

+ one for superglue. I like to use the thin stuff.

 

[AlanG]

+ one for superglue. I like to use the thin stuff.

I like the gel sometimes as it gives a little more time to position better

 

[Jakko]

I always use superglue, and usually sand the surface of the etched part where it is to be glued, to give a greater surface area for the glue to adhere to.

 

[The Smythe Meister]

OK then Chaps.... That`s answered my question already!! ,I`ll nab some super glue from SPAR in the morning...... is just the cheap stuff OK?
Also,Jakko...... I`ve read somewhere that a Fibre pen is best to score up the etch surface..... whatchya reckon?
THANKS SO MUCH for your super quick info......
Very appreciated,
Andy

 

[AlanG]

Fibre pen is just fine Andy. But i would grab some activator as well. Makes it dry even quicker when it is needed to be

 

[Dave Ward]

Andy,
get a brand name CA - the cheaper stuff seems to go off in the tube/bottle quickly. A fibre pen works very well, but make sure you aren't sensitive to the glass fibre ( I can't use them, brings me out in blotches ) . I usually wash the fret with a stiffish bush & IPA to get rid of any grease
Dave

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Fibre pen is just fine Andy. But i would grab some activator as well. Makes it dry even quicker when it is needed to be

Cheers Alan..... Will do!

 

[Steve Jones]

Dont use the fibre pen mate. You, your work surface and more importantly the model gets covered in small glass fibres which wreck your paint finish. This happens whether you use it dry or wet. Just use your standing sticks. As for glue there are two distinctive CA's. One that goes off after a few seconds which allows you to move the piece into place. Industrial grade will stick it as soon as you put the parts together. Also buy some debonder so if you mess it up you can use it and start again. Also it is great for cleaning up CA over spills. Dont forget to use your Pringles lid for putting the glue on and a cork with a bit of wire in it to apply the glue with. Happy etching my friend

 

[AlanG]

get a brand name CA - the cheaper stuff seems to go off in the tube/bottle quickly.

Depends just on how much CA you are intending to use. I personally get the really small tubes that don't hold much CA. I find them more than enough for one build.

 

[Ian M]

I sometimes take the whole fret of PE and rub it on a sheet of 1000 grit wet and dry.
Also worth having some IPA or cellulose thinner and cotton buds at hand to de-grease the PE .
I use the gator grip for parts tha just lay flat on the other part, CA for the more up on und parts.
Larger structural parts I have been known find the soldering iron....

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Andy,
get a brand name CA - the cheaper stuff seems to go off in the tube/bottle quickly. A fibre pen works very well, but make sure you aren't sensitive to the glass fibre ( I can't use them, brings me out in blotches ) . I usually wash the fret with a stiffish bush & IPA to get rid of any grease
Dave

Thanks Dave,Indeed,Glass fibre does irritate me somewhat at work occasionally,but not too bad.....
As for the Branded stuff,i think i`ll go for "Loctite" Gel .

 

[Ian M]

Forgot to say, best CA. I find are the cheap ones! Also it keeps well in the fridge!

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Dont use the fibre pen mate. You, your work surface and more importantly the model gets covered in small glass fibres which wreck your paint finish. This happens whether you use it dry or wet. Just use your standing sticks. As for glue there are two distinctive CA's. One that goes off after a few seconds which allows you to move the piece into place. Industrial grade will stick it as soon as you put the parts together. Also buy some debonder so if you mess it up you can use it and start again. Also it is great for cleaning up CA over spills. Dont forget to use your Pringles lid for putting the glue on and a cork with a bit of wire in it to apply the glue with. Happy etching my friend

Steve!
...... LOADS of good info there mate,thank you......
.... as for "Happy etching",Hmmmm.........we`ll see !!!
Cheers buddy,
Andy

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Forgot to say, best CA. I find are the cheap ones! Also it keeps well in the fridge!

Cheers Ian,
I`m going to cover both angles and get a cheap thin one too... trusty old "SPAR`s own"!!
.... Nice tip about the fridge storage BTW!
Andy

 

[Jon Heptonstall]

Another thing that may help is to use a tiny bit of PVA glue,or even spit,to hold the part in place before applying the CA.
Jon.

 

[Tim Marlow]

If you do use a fibre pen use it wet! I always dip the fibre pen in a saucer of dilute washing up liquid before use. It stops the fibres flying. I would still wear a mask though, the fibres are horrible. I would also cover my worktable with a sheet of news to aid clean up.
I don’t do much etch these days, but when I did I mostly soldered it. Obviously this is only any good when sticking etch to etch
For fitting etch to plastic small bits get superglued, and large bits get stuck on with epoxy, usually held in place while it dries with tacks of superglue.

 

[Tim Marlow]

Forgot to say, when using superglue I always put a scrap of double sided tape on a block, leaving the waxed paper on it. Drop the superglue on it and it remains workable for ages if you transfer the glue to the joint with a pin.

 

[The Smythe Meister]

Another thing that may help is to use a tiny bit of PVA glue,or even spit,to hold the part in place before applying the CA.
Jon.

Thanks to you too Jon.....more great tips, much appreciated ,
I`ve got some PVA glue for sure...... and i`m PRETTY confident that i can get some spit from somewhere!!
Andy